Indian regulator/rectifier revisited...

[kbert777]

Ok, so I have the suspicion that my original regulator/rectifier bit the dust last weekend.

Battery went dead after going through a almost 10 mile road construction through Death Vally going 10 mph. After that the battery was dead, voltage in idle below 9 Volts, barely 13 Volts over 2000 rpm, not enough to charge the 4 year old Odyssey. Made it home after push starting the bike, barely kept running with the radiator fan on.

 

I checked the battery, after charging it over night, tests at 218 CCA, stated is 220 CCA, not bad for 4 years.

The stator measures at 0.5 Ohms, all combination of the 3 wires, connections look good, measured AC voltage with engine running at 2000 rpm is 10.2 Volts even and equal on all three connections, no conductivity to ground.

 

That pretty much leaves the original regulator/rectifier...

 

I bought one of the newer style regulator in the last group buy, would like to hear about possible installation locations. The only reference I found mentions the fairing underneath the radio/cassette player. Any other, maybe better locations? I am planning on keeping the old regulator installed and disconnected (after replacing with a used/ know good one of course), simply circumventing it with new wiring. Also debating to replace the factory connector from the stator with a better splice or different connector. Any thoughts? Anything I am overlooking?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Klaus

[Condor]

Ok, so I have the suspicion that my original regulator/rectifier bit the dust last weekend.

Battery went dead after going through a almost 10 mile road construction through Death Vally going 10 mph. After that the battery was dead, voltage in idle below 9 Volts, barely 13 Volts over 2000 rpm, not enough to charge the 4 year old Odyssey. Made it home after push starting the bike, barely kept running with the radiator fan on.

 

I checked the battery, after charging it over night, tests at 218 CCA, stated is 220 CCA, not bad for 4 years.

The stator measures at 0.5 Ohms, all combination of the 3 wires, connections look good, measured AC voltage with engine running at 2000 rpm is 10.2 Volts even and equal on all three connections, no conductivity to ground.

 

That pretty much leaves the original regulator/rectifier...

 

I bought one of the newer style regulator in the last group buy, would like to hear about possible installation locations. The only reference I found mentions the fairing underneath the radio/cassette player. Any other, maybe better locations? I am planning on keeping the old regulator installed and disconnected (after replacing with a used/ know good one of course), simply circumventing it with new wiring. Also debating to replace the factory connector from the stator with a better splice or different connector. Any thoughts? Anything I am overlooking?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Klaus

 

I have a couple of those stashed away for future needs. I think you could put it just about anywhere where there's a bit of circulation, and maybe out of the weather. Maybe even up in the front fork area?? I'd hard wire the leads, or find a weather proof connector that will work. Have fun...

[Marcarl]

i put mine right on top of the airbox, real close to the battery so to clear the cover. Seems to work alright, I know some are fuzzie as to where they work, but so far I've heard no complaints,,,, maybe the music is tooo loud,,,

[Condor]

i put mine right on top of the airbox, real close to the battery so to clear the cover. Seems to work alright, I know some are fuzzie as to where they work, but so far I've heard no complaints,,,, maybe the music is tooo loud,,,

 

I thought of that too, but then figured where would the TCI go if it were relocated?? Might get a little crowded up there.

[kbert777]

Thanks Guy's, I am going to have a look tomorrow, I was considering mounting the unit on top of the air box, but might also consider relocating the TCI.

 

Still debating if I am going to delete the connector from the stator to the regulator, might be better to do a direct solder splice to remove another failure and resistance point. Only draw back would be the lack of option to use the original regulator as a back up device, at least not very easily.

 

Do the re-manufactured or upgraded stators come with the connector, or are you supposed to splice them?

 

Thanks again,

 

Klaus

[rhncue]

Thanks Guy's, I am going to have a look tomorrow, I was considering mounting the unit on top of the air box, but might also consider relocating the TCI.

 

Still debating if I am going to delete the connector from the stator to the regulator, might be better to do a direct solder splice to remove another failure and resistance point. Only draw back would be the lack of option to use the original regulator as a back up device, at least not very easily.

 

Do the re-manufactured or upgraded stators come with the connector, or are you supposed to splice them?

 

Thanks again,

 

Klaus

 

There are 5 terminals on the reg/rec. They are independent of each other so they come with the five independent connectors and water proof plugs. I bolted mine to the brace behind the lower fairings. I already had plug for the three white wires that go between the stator and the reg/rec removed and permanently connected so I just cut the wires right where they were soldered and folded them back along the frame to the new reg/rec, put on the new plugs and plugged them into the new unit. I then ran two new wires, one ground and one hot, straight up to the battery area and connected them. I left the old reg/rec and it's wiring in place but unplugged the old one from the harness so as not to get any interference. My old unit was bad so I'll never use it anymore but it causes no trouble where it's at. Once you see how good these new ones work you'll never go back either.

 

Dick

[mraf]

My choice.http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44276&highlight=regulator

[barend]

mine's on top of the air box, no problems

[kbert777]

Well, I really liked mraf's solution but ended up putting the regulator on top of the air box with some double-stick tape.

 

Unfortunately it did not solve my problem, with the engine cold I can not get the voltage over 13.5 Volts. I installed the regulator with a fuse so I can use my digital meter to check the charging current and I measure about 7A with the battery fully charged at 2000 rpm. With the driving lights on the voltage falls to about 12.3 Volts and the current stays at about 7A.

I rode to bike for a while and re-checked everything with the engine warmed up. This time the voltage will not go over about 12.5 Volts at any rpm. I finally disconnected the stator and measured the resistance again and while 2 combinations read close to 0.5 Ohms, one reads closer to 0.0 or 0.1 Ohms, which almost has to indicate a partial short after warm up.

 

So I guess I am in the market for another stator. Would you guys recommend the rewound, high output stator that Buckeye Performance offers? Or go OEM ? Any other reliable sources that offer a decent product?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Klaus

[Rocket]

 

So I guess I am in the market for another stator. Would you guys recommend the rewound, high output stator that Buckeye Performance offers? Or go OEM ? Any other reliable sources that offer a decent product?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Klaus

 

Not from Yamaha, as we were Quoted $600 each, in Cody last year, from the dealer.

 

Buckeye stator works good, but how much down time can you endure, waiting for a re-build.

 

I installed 2 stators from Ricks Motorspot Electrics in Cody, we got them overnighted in from www.DennisKirk.com

 

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=210366&store=Main&catId=&productId=p210807&leafCatId=&mmyId=16017

 

BTW I would not touch an Electrosport stator...........

[jasonm.]

My only comment. You should not be having driving lights turned on ...unless you are on the interstate or consistantly running over 3500rpm. Excess draw at low RPM will kill any stator...given enough time.

[timgray]

Even if they gave you a warranty for the next 100,000,000 miles I would never put in a OEM stator on a bike. They are too old and for less than 1/4 the price you get a better one that will last longer. My new regulator is exactly where the old one went. I cut a plate of aluminum to make a mount. now it has lots of air and the thing is more waterproof than the stock one.

[Condor]

Well, I really liked mraf's solution but ended up putting the regulator on top of the air box with some double-stick tape.

 

Unfortunately it did not solve my problem, with the engine cold I can not get the voltage over 13.5 Volts. I installed the regulator with a fuse so I can use my digital meter to check the charging current and I measure about 7A with the battery fully charged at 2000 rpm. With the driving lights on the voltage falls to about 12.3 Volts and the current stays at about 7A.

I rode to bike for a while and re-checked everything with the engine warmed up. This time the voltage will not go over about 12.5 Volts at any rpm. I finally disconnected the stator and measured the resistance again and while 2 combinations read close to 0.5 Ohms, one reads closer to 0.0 or 0.1 Ohms, which almost has to indicate a partial short after warm up.

 

So I guess I am in the market for another stator. Would you guys recommend the rewound, high output stator that Buckeye Performance offers? Or go OEM ? Any other reliable sources that offer a decent product?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Klaus

 

Put a load on that battery just for the heck of it Klaus. I had one that checked out OK using the multi. When the battery dealer first checked it out he thought it was OK too, but when he put a load test on it, it failed big time. It had a shorted cell... Not common.

[kbert777]

Put a load on that battery just for the heck of it Klaus. I had one that checked out OK using the multi. When the battery dealer first checked it out he thought it was OK too, but when he put a load test on it, it failed big time. It had a shorted cell... Not common.

 

The battery was tested with a factory Interstate tester and a standard load tester, both indicated good results around 218CCA with very minimal voltage drop. I also tested the charging system with a different, standard lead acid battery and the results were also marginal for the charging components.

 

My only comment. You should not be having driving lights turned on ...unless you are on the interstate or consistantly running over 3500rpm. Excess draw at low RPM will kill any stator...given enough time.

 

That's a very good comment. The constant, excessive load will definitely do some damage if you leave the driving lights on constantly. I just mentioned that I used the driving lights as an extra load to monitor the charging system. With the lights on I could not get any charging voltage at any rpm, I would assume that I should have seen some drop, didn't expect a complete flat line.

On a different note, has anybody found a source for some lower wattage, higher light output H3 bulbs? I remember seeing some 25 Watt bulbs a few years ago with a claimed light output of a standard 55 Watt bulb.

 

I ordered the stator from Dennis Kirk, not the best price, but I have dealt with them before and know that the customer service is usually spot on; also ordered gaskets, O-rings and seals from Yamaha, glad the bike is due for an oil change at the same time, makes things about loosing oil when removing the covers much easier.

 

Klaus

[kbert777]

OK, new stator is in, all gaskets replaced, oil changed and bike is charging great.

I measured 13.9V at idle and 14.3V at 2k rpm, I didn't measure the current, but the light s are brighter and bike idles better.

One thing I noticed that after a short ride the wiring from the stator to the regulator and the wiring from the regulator to the battery got warm to the touch, actually the 30A fuse I inserted in the line got quiet hot. I used a bundle of three 14 gauge wires for the stator connection, which appears to be the same as the factory wiring, and two short (less then 12") 10 gauge wires from the regulator to the battery. I also noticed that the factory main fuse got warm to the touch. This might be an indication that I have to seriously work on the fuse box upgrade and clean a few things up.

 

The overall impression of the 'Ricks Motorsport' stator is that it appears to be made quiet well. The rubber plug is a little bit undersized, the output wiring is smooth instead of braided as the original, so I guess that should make it easier to seal. The windings are not quiet as accurate in positioning as the factory stator, the insulation appears thicker then the original. Turns out that my stator was factory original and untouched, which is not bad for 77k miles. If the new one last have that long, I think it's worth the money.

 

Overall not too bad of a job, took about 1 1/2 hours, most time was spend cleaning the old gaskets off.

 

Klaus

 

Klaus

[skydoc_17]

Hey Klaus,

Have a look at this like, you may find it usefull:

 

http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2330&title=first-gen281983-1993-29-vr-fuse-box-upgrade-kit-21&cat=6

 

Good luck with your project,

Earl

[jasonm.]

I glad to hear that a problem was solved. FYI to all. The stator in our bikes is still being made for other models including the RSVenture. So if you can get an OEM NEW and cheap...that's nothing to worry about. The OEMs do leak eventually due to the braided wire. So Rick's will likely be better for sure in that area. ALSO, I ohmed out the stock connections . The red is always connected to + of the battery, found zero ohms. So running a whole new + wire to the battery seems unnessesary/redundant.

Edited April 21, 2010 by jasonm.

[kbert777]

So far no leaks and cooling problems, that's after about 400 miles. Unfortunately, now after everything is back together, I noticed some minor seepage on the clutch slave cylinder, should have addressed that with the middle gear cover removed...

 

I looked at Earl's fuse box kit, looks great and very complete and clean, I had something slightly different in mind, but I should cover all the bases for a standard retrofit.

 

Klaus