Freebird Posted September 8, 2006 #1 Posted September 8, 2006 I THINK this was written up by Squidley. Installation of the Battery Cable Upgrade As some of you have been patiently waiting for, here is the step by step instructions on how to install the Battery Cable upgrades on the 1st gen. I'm going to try my best to keep it in chronological order for less head aches. I will also mention that you might want to go out and purchase a magnetic tool tray to put all the screws and bolts into so none get lost. If you feel nervous on taking your bike apart this far I would suggest that as your disassembling it you take pictures with a digital camera to aid you in the reinstall. I have done this in the past and it's very helpful. Step 1: Remove the Faux tank cover by opening the fuel door and removing the lower retraining screw. Push forward and then lift up off the bike. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.1.jpg Step 2: Disconnect the battery cables (both of them) and screw your retaining bolts back into the posts of the battery so they don't get lost. Pull the cables off to the side, as you will need some room to work around. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.2.jpg Step 3: You will need to remove the battery from it's tray, to do this you will have to un-strap it from the battery box. There is a rubber strap with metal rings that are in the fore and aft area of the box on the top. Pull the one in the front down to disengage it from it's hook point and then lift the entire fuse block off of the battery. You will need to pull the battery sensor wire (white with Red stripe) apart for the removal of the battery and remove the battery from the bike. Step 4: Next you will need to remover the upper fairing electronics on your left side the radio assy. and on the right the CLASS and CB. Pull them out and remove their cradles as you will also have to remove the top covers where the speakers are molded into. You will need to remove both upper pcs and disconnect all electronic leads so you have a clear area to work in. Remember also to pull the Headlight Adjusting Knob on the left side by pulling it strait back towards you. This will need to be off to facilitate removal of the speakers cover. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.3.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.4.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.5.jpg Step 5: There are 2 crescent shaped grill pieces on both sides of the steering head, the right one has the hazard switch in it. Pull the screws and remove both of these, disconnecting the hazard switch from the wire loom. Step 6: Now it's time to pull the battery box out you will need a 10 mm socket and ratchet with a 6" extension. There are 2 bolts in the bottom of the box that will probably be corroded; I would suggest you spray them down with penetrating oil before you attempt to loosen them. Don’t be surprised if you snap 1 or both of them while trying to remove them, if you do, you can drill and re-tap if it concerns you. One of mine is broken and I really don’t worry about it. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.6.jpg Now there is a 3rd bolt holding the battery box in, to get to it you will need to remove the auxiliary fuse block which is simply pushed onto a retaining bar as it's encased in a rubber holder. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.7.jpg Pull up on this assembly and move it out of your way now you'll be able to see the 3rd bolt, which is also a 10mm. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.8.jpg Step 7: Now your ready to pull the battery box out completely, there is a small trick to this. You want to pull it out from the right side at an angle, as there are 2 prongs on the left side that hold the Starter solenoid. It will take a little finagling but you'll just have to wiggle it out. The solenoid is encased in rubber and that is how it's attached to the box, you'll just have to slide it off the posts to the left. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.9.jpg Now your area should be clear of all the items necessary to get you cables in from the top down to the sides of the bike. Step 8: Now you have to pull off the 2 side panels the removable ones on both sides of the bike by your legs. Then up to the front and the 2 side shields that are besides the radiator, they are held on by 2 screws each. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.10.jpg When the screws are out pull the panel strait backwards and disengage it from it's slot and then forward . You can remove the horn brackets if you want but you don’t need to as the side shields will come off with them attached. Step 9: Depending on the year of your bike it might or might not have the lower air dam but this has to come off also just for the space availability, and to get at the starter, (If you don’t have this piece skip to step 10). http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.11.jpg There are 4 Allen head bolts that hold it on, 2 on the sides that are visible and 2 underneath the piece, take them out and remove that air dam. Step 10: Remove the chin bar that holds the 2 lower fairing pieces together, this is usually a Phillips head screw or 10mm head bolt, set this aside. Now to remover the 2 lower fairings with the air vents in them, remove the lower bolts from these assemblies (10mm) first and then come up to the top and remove the 2 Phillips screws that are now visible. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.12.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.13.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.14.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.15.jpg You should now be able to remove both of the lower fairing pieces. Now that your all disassembled it's time to install the new battery cables, this can be tedious and I would suggest that you have another pair of hands to help you as it goes LOTS easier with 2 people. I have done it by myself but you just have to be patient if you try to rush it you'll just get mad. Here's what needs to happen now.... Note; While you have access to the rear cylinder spark plug coils, I would suggest replacing the plug wires while they are accessible http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.16.jpg Installation of the cables Step 1: I would suggest you start with the Negative side first as it is the easiest to install and will boost your confidence a bit before attempting the Positive (note: remember the Positive cables have the red heatshrink the Negative has the black) Take a good look at how the cable is routed before you start, there is a small flexible tab that keeps the cable in place on the frames down tube. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.17.jpg These will need to be opened up as well as any cable ties that are holding the stock negative cable in place. (Remember to take pics of the routing if you dont feel confident that you'll remember) Now disconnect the Negative cable from the engine block using a 10mm socket or wrench. Step 2: It's totally up to you how you want to run the new cables, you can either pull them down from the top, or pull them up from the bottom. Myself I would pull them up as this is how I have done it in the past, now the fun begins. You will need a good strong cable tie as you are going to connect the old and new cables together.You also need to separate the additional grounding link as it will just be cut off from the cable and a new connector will be crimped onto it. Once this is done you are going to start your Push/Pull method, you will run into some resistance as the new cables are almost twice the diameter of the stock ones, so be paitent. (NOTE: You can apply some WD 40 to the outside of the cable to help the cable slide through). The Negative should pull through fairly easily as there isn't a lot in it's path. Your second set of hands will come in handy here, being up top pulling as you work the cable through it's path from below. Once you get the new portion of cable in the box area http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.18.jpg you'll need to go below and hook up the new cable to the engine block. You can take a pair of vice grip pliers and bend the copper tab over to 90 degrees like the stock one is..this is just for a cleaner look and better fit. Now you can attach the cable back onto the frame tube where it was before and your done with that side. Step 3: Now it's time to do the Positive, this will be a bit more difficult as there is a lot in the area that the cable needs to go through. NOTE: For you who are a bit frazzled right now it might be a good time to get some refreshments ie; a beer or a shot of Beam or just a Root beer and take a break.You are going to do the same procedure as the Negative cable and first remove the Positive cable from the starter which is down inbetween the front exhaust pipes, it's a 10mm nut that holds it on. Remove the rubber nut cover from the stock cable as you can use this again on the new cable. You'll have to split it and re tape it around the new cable or go to your local electrical supply and purchase a bigger one. Then you need to remove the top of the Positive cable from the Starter Solenoid, and separate the fuseable link as it will just be cut off from the cable and a new connector will be crimped onto it. Step 4: This is where it can be aggrivating as you will have to snake the Positive through tighter areas, short pulls win the race here so 2 sets of hands are very helpful in these steps. Some of you might have to loosen the bolts that holds the radio amp (left side) to the frame as I have seen some cables routed through there. I have pictured out where the cable comes up through the battery box area. http://www.venturerider.org/batterycables/index.19.jpg Once you have the cable in the box area you can re attach it to the frame tube and down to the starter, then pull your slack cable up into the box. Remember dont pull it super tight as you still have to install all your other components. Step 5: Replace the short lead from the Solenoid to the battery, Pay attention to how it is twisted and clamped on the solenoid as you will need to have it in a similar shape for the reinstall. I would suggest you do this before you reinstall the battery box as it it will be easier to get to the retaining nut. NOTE; The rubber ends that cover the positive lugs can be reused but you will have to split them to wrap around the thicker cable. I have done this and you can use either electrical tape or a larger heat shrink tube. You can also go to your local electrical supply house and purchase bigger ends to go over the cables. Your almost home free now all that’s left is to start reassembly
oldandcrotchety Posted October 29, 2006 #2 Posted October 29, 2006 what size should the new cables be?
Squidley Posted October 29, 2006 #3 Posted October 29, 2006 what size should the new cables be? They are 4 gauge and the stock lengths, 33" on the positive and negative and 6" on the battery to solenoid. Don.... I dont know where you found this but THANK YOU! I spent hours one Sunday writing that up and I wasn't looking forward to doing it again
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