Tire change detail questions

[Venturing Sole]

My 06 RSV came with Bridgestones and I’ve put 13,000 miles on them. I bought new Dunlop OEM model (but in white wall) tires via the web (OK, my wife did, because she’s the web shopping guru). I’ve read a lot of posts about tire preferences and handling and mileage life and opinions are all over the map. I figured I would try the Dunlops and next time, probably the Avons and after that the Michelins, etc. until I had my own opinion based on how I ride.

Anyway…I’ve got a torque wrench, lift and Carbon One’s adapter and I plan to remove the wheels and take them to a tire place (not a MC dealer) that will break off the old tires and mount the new ones, then I will reinstall the wheels (replacing brake pads and greasing the rear splines like I saw at Freebird’s Maintenance Day and tightening the fork head) utilizing the combined knowledge of 3000 experts/mechanics/advisors/family that is VentureRiders.

Some specific questions though:

1. The tire mounting shop prefers I remove the rotors – do I need to reinstall the rotors in the exact same (hole for hole) position as they come off? Torque requirements? Tightening sequence (like lug nuts)?

2. The tire mounting shop has no means to balance a MC tire – how much does this really matter?

3. I know the tires are directional. The rear wheel can only go on one way, so I only need to confirm that they mount the tire so the forward direction results in the rotor mounting on the right side (facing forward). The front tire is also directional, but does it matter how they mount it on the wheel?

4. I know the brake pads on the rear wheel are exchangeable (inboard to outboard), but are they the same configuration for the front wheel (a pad is a pad is a pad)?

5. I have come across several threads that I’ve copied for procedures for rear wheel removal, greasing the splines, tightening the fork head, etc. I hope they will be as helpful when my hands are covered in grease “in the moment” as they appear to be sitting at the computer. Not sure if I have all the right wrenches and socket sizes for the various tasks – I have the “normal” sizes 17mm and smaller. Anyone have a list of “special” sizes or tools needed for these tasks (or substitutes, like Crescent wrenches)?

Thanks in advance for all who contribute.

David

[Freebird]

Some specific questions though:

 

1. The tire mounting shop prefers I remove the rotors – do I need to reinstall the rotors in the exact same (hole for hole) position as they come off? Torque requirements? Tightening sequence (like lug nuts)?

 

I've never heard of having to remove the rotor to replace a tire. Maybe it's because they are not equipped to do motorcycle tires though. To answer your questions though, NO, they do not have to be put back in the same holes. You should tighten all lightly though and move from bolt to bolt.

2. The tire mounting shop has no means to balance a MC tire – how much does this really matter?

 

It will really depend more on the tire than anything else. I would prefer that the be balanced. You could feel it if they are not.

3. I know the tires are directional. The rear wheel can only go on one way, so I only need to confirm that they mount the tire so the forward direction results in the rotor mounting on the right side (facing forward). The front tire is also directional, but does it matter how they mount it on the wheel?

 

This has been discussed before and some say yes, some no. I don't think it matters but would make it simple and just put it back the same way it came off. Just put a little mark or something on it to help you remember.

4. I know the brake pads on the rear wheel are exchangeable (inboard to outboard), but are they the same configuration for the front wheel (a pad is a pad is a pad)?

 

Pads are pads.

5. I have come across several threads that I’ve copied for procedures for rear wheel removal, greasing the splines, tightening the fork head, etc. I hope they will be as helpful when my hands are covered in grease “in the moment” as they appear to be sitting at the computer. Not sure if I have all the right wrenches and socket sizes for the various tasks – I have the “normal” sizes 17mm and smaller. Anyone have a list of “special” sizes or tools needed for these tasks (or substitutes, like Crescent wrenches)?

 

Thanks in advance for all who contribute.

 

David

[Squeeze]

Hi,

My 06 RSV came with Bridgestones and I’ve put 13,000 miles on them. I bought new Dunlop OEM model (but in white wall) tires via the web (OK, my wife did, because she’s the web shopping guru). I’ve read a lot of posts about tire preferences and handling and mileage life and opinions are all over the map. I figured I would try the Dunlops and next time, probably the Avons and after that the Michelins, etc. until I had my own opinion based on how I ride.

 

Anyway…I’ve got a torque wrench, lift and Carbon One’s adapter and I plan to remove the wheels and take them to a tire place (not a MC dealer) that will break off the old tires and mount the new ones, then I will reinstall the wheels (replacing brake pads and greasing the rear splines like I saw at Freebird’s Maintenance Day and tightening the fork head) utilizing the combined knowledge of 3000 experts/mechanics/advisors/family that is VentureRiders.

 

Some specific questions though:

 

1. The tire mounting shop prefers I remove the rotors – do I need to reinstall the rotors in the exact same (hole for hole) position as they come off? Torque requirements? Tightening sequence (like lug nuts)?

 

Do not remove the Rotors, because they should be able to dismount and mount the new Tires without taking the Rotors of, AND the Rotor should be mounted to get proper Balancing afterwards

 

2. The tire mounting shop has no means to balance a MC tire – how much does this really matter?

 

It does, don't mount your Wheels without Balancing, front Wheel is a MUST, these Bike are fast and you ruin your Bearings without balancing

 

3. I know the tires are directional. The rear wheel can only go on one way, so I only need to confirm that they mount the tire so the forward direction results in the rotor mounting on the right side (facing forward). The front tire is also directional, but does it matter how they mount it on the wheel?

 

Yes it matters, because the Wheel has a left and a right side also

 

4. I know the brake pads on the rear wheel are exchangeable (inboard to outboard), but are they the same configuration for the front wheel (a pad is a pad is a pad)?

 

The Pads are interchangeable, but if you don not install them on the same Place, you better break them in before taking on a serious Braking Situation. Breaking in means, accelerate to some 30 mph in a safe Place, Parking Lot or Backstreet, and break the Bike down to Standstill with middle Pressure on the Lever, do not let the Lever go, hold it for 10 Seconds after stopping. Redo this 2 Times and you're ready to go. Same Procedure on the rear afterwards. This will prevent the Pads from getting glassy.

 

 

5. I have come across several threads that I’ve copied for procedures for rear wheel removal, greasing the splines, tightening the fork head, etc. I hope they will be as helpful when my hands are covered in grease “in the moment” as they appear to be sitting at the computer. Not sure if I have all the right wrenches and socket sizes for the various tasks – I have the “normal” sizes 17mm and smaller. Anyone have a list of “special” sizes or tools needed for these tasks (or substitutes, like Crescent wrenches)?

 

The Toolset that comes with the Bike should be ok for all you have on you List. Only Thing, i don't know about the hook Wrench which you will need for good torquing of the Locknuts in the Steering Head below the upper Forkbrace

 

 

Thanks in advance for all who contribute.

 

David

[KeithR]

I had both my tires replaced this summer (different times) at a fairly large Yamaha/Honda dealer and both times when I went to pick them up they told me they had to remove the rotors to do the installation. When I dropped them off they didn't think they had to but did after. So I guess it must all depend on the changer they use ?

 

 

Keith

[PrairieStar]

I replaced my tires in my own garage without a tire machine and there definitely was no need to remove the rotors from the wheels. I did it using tire spoons and rim protectors. It didn't take long either. You'd think that when using a tire machine designed for this purpose that they wouldn't need to remove them.

Breaking the beads took a little homemade ingenuity though.:pushups:

[BOO]

I replaced my tires in my own garage without a tire machine and there definitely was no need to remove the rotors from the wheels. I did it using tire spoons and rim protectors. It didn't take long either. You'd think that when using a tire machine designed for this purpose that they wouldn't need to remove them.

 

That's the way I do it also, sometimes I take the wheel/tire to the dealer to have it balanced, sometimes I do it myself.

Breaking the beads took a little homemade ingenuity though.:pushups:

Big ole C clamp works pretty good.

 

 

......

[Monsta]

do not let the Lever go, hold it for 10 Seconds after stopping.

I'm sorry but I had to interject. DO NOT hold the brake pads against the hot rotor. This causes pad material transfer. Done too much (and especially when breaking in new pads) will create high spots of cementite. Cementite is basically super heated & melted pad material. It is these high spots of cementite that many people mistake for warped rotors. A sure fire way to get that "warped rotor feel" (since actually warping a rotor is very, very hard to do) is to hold a hot pad against a hot rotors.

 

Try to make it a point not to hold the brake too long against the pad after prolonged use of the brakes such as going down steep hills with a stop sign at the bottom. I usually leave a bit of room to allow me to creep so that the pads don't stay in one spot on the rotor for too long

 

Proper break in should start at, say, 30mph and progress up to 55 or 60. You do a firm stop all the way down to about 5mph and the motor off allowing everything to cool for a few minutes and then repeating and adding more braking force as you go. Often you only need about 5 good "stops" to seat or break-in pads and rotor.

 

An excellent read. Even though it is about cars, we share the same braking system. (Friction pad against metal rotor)

 

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

[Squeeze]

I'm sorry but I had to interject. DO NOT hold the brake pads against the hot rotor. This causes pad material transfer. Done too much (and especially when breaking in new pads) will create high spots of cementite. Cementite is basically super heated & melted pad material. It is these high spots of cementite that many people mistake for warped rotors. A sure fire way to get that "warped rotor feel" (since actually warping a rotor is very, very hard to do) is to hold a hot pad against a hot rotors.

 

Try to make it a point not to hold the brake too long against the pad after prolonged use of the brakes such as going down steep hills with a stop sign at the bottom. I usually leave a bit of room to allow me to creep so that the pads don't stay in one spot on the rotor for too long

 

Proper break in should start at, say, 30mph and progress up to 55 or 60. You do a firm stop all the way down to about 5mph and the motor off allowing everything to cool for a few minutes and then repeating and adding more braking force as you go. Often you only need about 5 good "stops" to seat or break-in pads and rotor.

 

An excellent read. Even though it is about cars, we share the same braking system. (Friction pad against metal rotor)

 

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

 

Hi,

 

first the Procedure it stated above is my Recommendation for breaking in used Pads.

 

New Pads are to break in in the Way that is stated on the Page you linked. Except, the contact of the heated Pads with the Rotors for some Seconds. The Way you and the Site stated allows the Friction Part on the Pads to gather a Lot of Heat and a Lot of Temperature Difference between Rotor and Pad. This Way, the Danger of glassing the Pads Surface is very high.

[flb_78]

You should not have to remove the rotors to change a tire. When you start taking the rotors off and on, there's a chance they'll warp. Also, the rotor bolts are usually a pain in the ass to remove without damaging the heads. I would not remove the rotors. Find a tire shop that specializes in motorcycle tires. Also, put RIDE-ON in the tires. Bestest thing you can do for them. It will balance the tire and prevent leaks.

[KiteSquid]

Also, have you thought about mounting and balancing the tires yourself????

[Johnh]

I have come across tire machines that won't work on our wheels without removing the rotors. I just change mine by hand. I like to locktite rotor bolts so I don't like to remove them unless I have to.

[Stoutman]

4. I know the brake pads on the rear wheel are exchangeable (inboard to outboard), but are they the same configuration for the front wheel (a pad is a pad is a pad)?

 

David,

I read this question 4 a little different than maybe the others did. If you are asking if you can switch pads from front to rear the answer is no. There are two different sizes of pad between the front and the rear and they don't mix. I'm not sure if it is possible to install the wrong pad, but I thought I throw in my two cents. The front four are all the same, and the rear two are the same, but don't mix front and rear.

Also, to do a static tire balance yourself just slide the axle back in the bearing and support the assembly with two jack stands. Rotate the wheel a quarter turn and let it go to find the low spot. Mark the low spot with some soapstone then do this again. If there seems to be too much friction between the bearing seal and the axle you can twist the axle back and forth a little bit while the wheel is turning. If the wheel stops in the same place, that is the heavy spot. Put a stick on wheel weight exactly opposite this spot and repeat the above procedure until the wheel does not stop in the same place twice. I use quarter ounce wheel weights. If you have to use several weights they should end up in about the same spot. Wheel weights should be available from your local auto parts store. I bought mine from JC Whitney and I have enough lo last well into the next decade.

Best of luck.

[Monsta]

The Way you and the Site stated allows the Friction Part on the Pads to gather a Lot of Heat and a Lot of Temperature Difference between Rotor and Pad. This Way, the Danger of glassing the Pads Surface is very high.

Uh...no...not really. Glazing is caused by prolonged high speed dragging of the pad against the rotor. The pad material actually melts the surface of the pad(s).

 

Some people's "love" is engines and extracting more power, others is appearance etc. etc. My "love" has always been suspension tuning and braking performance. Weird, I suppose.

 

No sense in going fast if you can't control the bike or stop when you want.

[Mean Dog]

I had both my tires replaced this summer (different times) at a fairly large Yamaha/Honda dealer and both times when I went to pick them up they told me they had to remove the rotors to do the installation. When I dropped them off they didn't think they had to but did after. So I guess it must all depend on the changer they use ?

 

 

Keith

 

I purchased a Harbor Freight tire changer and YES you have to remove one of the front rotors to fit the rim into the mounting tabs to do the tire change.

Dog

[midnightventure]

I change all my own tires and I usually take off one rotor on the front so I can work without hitting it.