Cleaning leather saddlebags

[DAKn2]

The leather saddlebags that came with my recently purchased Tour Classic could use a good cleaning and then some type of protectent.

 

Does anyone have any recommendation for what products to use for cleaning; and then what to use for protecting the leather?

 

Thanks!

[BuckShot]

Meltonian All Purpose Cleaner and Conditioner (Propert's Original Formula) It cleans-condition's-and water repellent all kinds of leather.

We use it on jackets,chaps and my son and daughter's leather saddle bags. We buy it at our local leather (biker) shop. $7.00 a bottle last year.

[BEER30]

Meltonian All Purpose Cleaner and Conditioner (Propert's Original Formula) It cleans-condition's-and water repellent all kinds of leather.

We use it on jackets,chaps and my son and daughter's leather saddle bags. We buy it at our local leather (biker) shop. $7.00 a bottle last year.

 

Forgive me for saying this , "There is NO such thing as a Cleaner/Conditioner all-in-one product !" Common since tells you that soaps are stronger than the conditioners or repellents . Why put all 3 of these together when the soaps will dissolve the others . These are just LAZY people products .

 

BEER30

[Monty]

Yup, that's just like the Blue Coral wash/wax that you get at Wallyworld. Can't have both together, and get a true cleaning and waxing.

[royalstarjac]

Doc Baileys Leather Black is the best thing I've ever used.

http://www.foxcreekleather.com/761.html

[Condor]

Farnam's Leather New.

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[ame]http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41lLF2HRSCL._SL500_AA280_.jpg[/ame]

[BuckShot]

Forgive me for saying this , "There is NO such thing as a Cleaner/Conditioner all-in-one product !" Common since tells you that soaps are stronger than the conditioners or repellents . Why put all 3 of these together when the soaps will dissolve the others . These are just LAZY people products .

 

BEER30

 

All I know is that it takes the bugs off and everything looks better and a lite rain beads on the leather. I'm not a leather expert. Oh--it also feels softer and not as stiff.

[BEER30]

Neither Doc Bailey , nor Leather New or similar would I ever use . All this crap may give you the appearance that it did good , but it doesn't .

Let me put this in perspective ..........Shampoo/Conditioner for your hair (if any of you old timers have any left ). Soaps are a cleanser , conditioners ....condition . Soaps have a stronger ingredient that loosens and helps remove any foreign substance such as dirt and oils for example . Conditioners need to set on the hair after it is clean to fulfill it's job . When using the combination of both soap and conditioner , you wash and then rinse in a short amount of time and the conditioners have not set long enough to do it's job. Basically washed away in the rinse .

Although the cow is dead and gone , it's skin (leather) still exist . The leather still reacts in the same manner as it was still alive sorta speaking . When washing leather with soaps , the leather will open it's pores along with help with lukewarm water and expand to allow dirt and oils to be washed away. Have you noticed when you wash your hair with a better quality of shampoo (high PH) versus a cheap soap your hair feels fuller ? Unless your budget allows you or you are simply satisfied with either of the 2 , I personally would use the better to achieve better cleansing . Soaps with high alkaline will eat away linen threads . So saying I personally use a low PH and low alkaline soap such as dish washing liquid . Therefore the leather does not expand as nearly as much . When high PH soaps are used , this possibly would cause 3 effects . Either stretching the threads or having the leather cut itself (especially with nylon threads) or breaking the threads entirely. Soaps with alkaline eats away linen threads and which would possibly break or weaken.

Saddle bags for example absorb a lot of dirt , road salts and other substances that break down leather . I personally would wash them in this manner . Remove from bike . Get a 5 gallon bucket of lukewarm water with Ivory or Pink Dollar store brand dish washing liquid . Dawn however is a strong cleanser , but hard to rinse away . Add just enough soap to form some suds . Add about 1/2 cup of White distilled vinegar (this extracts salt) . Take a medium to lite bristle brush . Now do not be alarmed now . Take the brush and douse it in the soapy water and begin the scrub the saddle bags . It does not harm the leather ! Use light to medium action and scrub the leather thoroughly inside and out . Don't be afraid to get the leather wet , but do not water-log it . After you cleanse the bags , rinse off with lukewarm water . Noticed I said lukewarm water ? Cold water closes the pores , Hot water allows the leather to loose it's form more as it becomes more flexible and could possibly stretch out of shape , so use lukewarm water .

Now set the bags out to dry , but not out directly in the sunlight . This will cause the leather to shrink or get too stiff . Ever left your baseball glove out in the rain , then the hot sun dry it out fast ? Best to place in shade with a breeze if possible . If not set outside to dry , but indoors , place a fan out in a distance . Do not allow the air to get stagnant or mold might form . You may also have to stuff newspaper or brown paper in the bags to help keep their shape if the bags do not have stiffeners already built into them . Once they are dry , you are ready to condition .

I also want to sat something about saddle soap. Saddle soap is a fine product , but you would not believe how many people do not know how to use properly . Follow the directions ! People use to harsh amount of pressure to rub in the saddle soap , causing the dirt to be pushed deeper into the pores , glazing the pores closed and then causing in time , dry-rot . The leather still needs to breath to survive .

Conditioning .......Depending on the type of leather the bags are made of , there are several steps into conditioning . Some leathers require additional oils . In some cases , I would use saddlers oils . I get mine from an Amish owned company named Weaver or Mast (Weaver bought out Mast by the way) . Mink oils are fabulous , but evaporate to quickly . I prefer the saddles oils overall as most contain Cod-fish oil and neatsfoot with other important ingredients . DO NOT USE PURE NEATSFOOT OIL ! It burn the leather as it is too rich . Only use a diluted compound neatsfoot oil if applicable . The leather will tell you how much it needs . Oil enough to where the oils leave a small residue standing , then wipe away . If the leather keeps drawing in the oil , it's telling you it's starving . After I oil the leather , I hand rub the leather with "Ray Holes" Saddle Butter . This product I believe in as I have used it for a long azz time on all my leathers .

 

Now you say , "Boy this is a lot to do ?" . Well I say, if you want your leather to last , it takes elbow grease to preserve . Just the same as you polish your chrome . These cleaner/conditioners may give you the appearance that it does the job , but let me assure you they do not . They do a good job in fooling you into believing so .

 

BEER30

[BEER30]

All I know is that it takes the bugs off and everything looks better and a lite rain beads on the leather. I'm not a leather expert. Oh--it also feels softer and not as stiff.

 

 

My tobacco juice will do that too .

As a prior saddlemaker/leathersmith , I want and will educate anyone whom is interested . One of my last projects when I left Alaska was working on a side saddle that was over 300 years old . A Museum peice to say the least , but still in ride-able condition . I still have my son's saddle made in Mexico that is over 25 years old . Though it is a cheap made saddle , I still break it down every year , wash , oil and saddle butter it .

 

BEER30