passing Lamp Installs

[Squidley]

Squidley,

 

You said it will not be hooked to the ignition, Would you tell me how you wire it to the relay and switch? If I understand you correctly nothing goes to the ignition. Some say to hook to the llghter plug. Do you have to turn the lights on and off manually each time. I have to put in a relay in and always thought of by passing ignition switch. Just hope to remember to shut off the lights. If wired the way I understand you, when you shut off the bike the lights will still be on until you turn off the passing light switch. Thanks for the help.

 

 

Rich,

Just to elaborate a bit for any and everyone else, like Walt mentioned the relay will be powered up by an accy wire. That way when you turn the ignition swith off the relay is powered down and your driving lights go off. I have the driving lights on the '89 directly hooked up into a relay without a switch. When I turn the bike to the on postion the light are on, when I turn the key off they are off. I just take my continuity light and find a wire that is activated by the position of the ignition, thats the one I use to switch power the relay.

[Rickster]

I went with a toggle switch not the one they sent but a heavier duty one got my switch power (ignition switch) off the low beam wire, really simple with all the help people here have to offer. Now I have to plan my next project. I'll post a picture sometime tomorrow of the passing lamps on the bike.

[djh3]

I have a semi-related question on the passing lights. I currently have 35w incandesents (sealed beam) lights in. Just got some 35w (H3 bulb) halogens on a e-bay deal. I am planning on doing some rewiring of the passing lamps and adding a relay in the near future when my HID kit gets here. In the mean time can I run the new halogens or do they require a higher amperage? I have been currently running the sealed beam ones, so will the halogen set draw more juice?

[Dave77459]

I have a semi-related question on the passing lights. I currently have 35w incandesents (sealed beam) lights in. Just got some 35w (H3 bulb) halogens on a e-bay deal. I am planning on doing some rewiring of the passing lamps and adding a relay in the near future when my HID kit gets here. In the mean time can I run the new halogens or do they require a higher amperage? I have been currently running the sealed beam ones, so will the halogen set draw more juice?

Are you rewiring more than just switching out out lamp types? I'd think 35W == 35W if nothing else changes.

 

However...

 

Last summer the caretaker of my bike slightly rewired the lamps to remove the super small switch that the dealer installed in the housing. By removing that undersized POS, the lamps could attain full power. I started getting warnings that I was not charging properly. (This is with 55W bulbs) In short, by removing that bottleneck, my lamps were pulling their full power and it was too much. I recently downsized to 35W (H3) lamps and they are still darn bright. But now my bike can handle the load.

 

If all you are doing is switch lamp types, I would believe you are OK. If you are doing something else, like fixing a dealer's shoddy installation, your mileage may vary.

 

Dave

[djh3]

Thanks Dave, sort of what I thought. 35w is 35w, the type of bulb makes the difference in the amount of light. Rite now just swapping bulbs. I have plans for an HID headlight swap (parts on the way) and when I split the fairing I think I'm going to add a relay and run a 14ga power wire for the lights. Looking at adding a fuse block to add circuits with fuses without adding a bunch of wires to the the positive terminal of battery.

[Bummer]

Pay very close attention to where the wiring is routed. The wiring must not be in a position to be pinched when the forks are turned fully to either side.

 

Once everything is together check this from the bottom/back of the fairing looking forward from along both sides of the tank. Check this with the power off - gently swing the fork fully from side to side. If it can pinch, it will pinch. Do whatever it takes to make sure the wiring is up and out of the way of the stops. If a wire can get into the pinch points it will be cut the first time you park and let the fork hit a stop.

[djh3]

Been there, done that, got the blown fuses to go with it. When I lowered the forks and added set back risers the wires got in the wrong place and poof. The smoke got out and everything quit. Smelled funny too. Thats part of why I'm looking at the rewire deal too. Had to S.... Rig the repair as I couldnt get in there for a good fix with fairing all installed.

On a wiring note, I am looking at adding an aux fuse box to power add on stuff like an extra power socket, maybe the power for the passing lights that sort of stuff. Instead of just adding wires to the battery I thought I would add a fuse box. I have some 12ga fuseable link wire left over from a project. Would this be OK to run power from the battery to this new box, instead of running a fuse in the supply wire? Should the wire have some sort of amp rating? I was sort of figuring about 15 amp?

Edited April 24, 2012 by djh3