Freebird Posted September 8, 2006 #1 Posted September 8, 2006 Submitted by Bill Anton If this is something you may need to do (Sunday or Monday when bike shops are closed) print the procedure and put it in your owners manual. DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE ===================== NOTE: This info is specific to the 1983-1993 Yamaha Venture motorcycle. Make intelligent (safe) changes for other motorcycles. Included in the procedure are REASSEMBLY torque specifications. The size listed is for the socket or wrench, not the bolt thread size. Initial tools required: - ratchet - 3" extension - sockets: 12mm, 14mm, 19mm - 14mm box-end wrench (if you loosen/remove the final drive) - 27mm flat wrench (rear axel nut) - 6mm Allen wrench (front axel pinch bolt) - pliers (for cotter key) OR get a get a 5/32" $0.75 hitch pin clip (Lowes / Home Depot) and never have to hassle with the archaic cotter key again - tie-down strap(s) - carpet / cardboard (for under forks) !! IMPORTANT: Control the bike's weight balance to make it safe to work around. You may have to ADD some WEIGHT to the REAR of the bike (saddlebags & trunk) BEFORE starting the procedure, so the front of the bike doesn't fall when the front wheel is removed in step 13. You should REMOVE everything from the saddlebags & trunk AFTER the front wheel is removed so the rear of the bike doesn't fall while working on the rear wheel. 1. Put the bike on the centerstand. 2. Connect tie-down straps from the bottom of the centerstand legs, to the engine guards. Pull them as snug as practical. 3. To keep the fork tubes from getting damaged in step 10, place a cardboard or carpet (from a car?) under the front tire area. 4. Loosen the right muffler-to-exhaust clamping bolt - 12mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 14 ft-lbs. 5. Remove the right muffler mounting bolt - 14mm, and remove the muffler. REASSEMBLY - Torque 18 ft-lbs. 6. Remove the rear brake caliper - 2, 12mm bolts. REASSEMBLY - Torque 32 ft-lbs. TIP: Use axel wrench flat end to spread the brake pads during reassemble. 7. Loosen (not remove) the rear axel pinch bolt - 12mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 14 ft-lbs. TIP: If the cotter key is aligned vertical, file marks on the pinch bolt end of the axel for easier future alignment. If it isn't aligned vertical, make the marks when you have the axel out. 8. Remove the rear axle nut and washer - 27mm flat wrench. *** DO NOT REMOVE THE REAR AXEL NOW *** REASSEMBLY - Torque 110 ft-lbs. TIP: Replace the cotter key with a 5/32" hitch pin (Lowes / Home Depot). 9. Front wheel remove: 1. Remove both brake calipers (2 bolts each) - 12mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 32 ft-lb TIP: Get 2 pieces of cardboard 4"x4" and fold them in half and insert them between the pads to hold them apart TIP: Use axel wrench flat end to spread brake pads during reassemble. 2. Loosen the front axel pinch bolt - 6mm Allen wrench. REASSEMBLY - Torque 14 ft-lb 3. Remove the front axel bolt - 19mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 75 ft-lb 4. Remove the front wheel. TIP: When you pull the wheel out, the speedo cable and drive will fall away -- don't worry unless you are over a dirt surface. REMINDER: On reassembly the speedo housing top-tab goes into the fork notch. 10. Carefully lower the front of the bike until the fork tubes are on the cardboard or carpet. 1. Start slowly pulling down on the fairing near the mirrors 2. As the pull-down becomes easier, slide one hand under the fairing for support 3. Squat a little as the fairing gets lower 4. As the weight increases, bring the other hand down for more support ****** REMOVE WEIGHT from the saddlebags & trunk for better counter balance. 11. Remove the rear axle. Notice the caliper bracket washer, it goes between the bracket and the swingarm. 12. Remove the brake caliper bracket. 13. Remove the 4 final drive attaching nuts - 14mm. then reattach one lower nut 1 1/2 turns so the drive shaft can't pull out of the U-joint and waste a lot of time to put it back together. REASSEMBLY - Torque 30 ft-lb 14. Pull the final drive rearward until it is against the nut. This gives a little more clearance to get the tire past the final drive. CAUTION: The wheel and tire weigh about 42 pounds. Be prepared for step 15. 15. Pull the wheel away from the final drive, and out of the swing arm. 16. Roll the rear wheel out under the fender and do what you removed it for. *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-* Removal of the final drive unit at this point is recommended to lube the driveshaft splines (Molybdenum Disulfide Grease) as long as the wheel is off anyway. See the FINAL DRIVE REMOVAL procedure below. *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-* 17. Reverse the DISASSEMBLY procedures from 14 to 1. - in step 10, do the sub-steps in 3-2-1 order. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- FINAL DRIVE REMOVAL PROCEDURE (optional) ============================= 1. Remove the 4 final drive attaching nuts - 14mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 30 ft-lbs. 2. Pull the final drive out of the swingarm. NOTE on 86-93 models: The driveshaft oil seal makes the shaft "stick" to the final drive. The driveshaft can be pulled out with a firm force. DO NOT lube 86-93 driveshaft rear splines, final drive fluid lubes them. BE CAREFUL if you pull the shaft out of the final drive, oil can drain from the final drive. FINAL DRIVE REASSEMBLY PROCEDURE ================================ 1. Reinstall the driveshaft: 1. Pull (hard on 86-93 models) the driveshaft out of the final drive. Set the drive aside, being careful to keep it tilted up to prevent fluid loss. 2. Put the transmission in neutral. 3. Use a flashlight, and insert the driveshaft into the swingarm, and use it to align the U-joint so that the yoke is vertical (12 & 6 O'clock), and angled down toward the bottom of the swingarm. 4. Put the transmission in gear (so the U-joint can't turn). 5. Reattach the driveshaft to the final drive. 6. Insert the driveshaft into the swingarm, letting the front end drag on the bottom of the swingarm. 7. Wiggle the wheel mating gear on the final drive to mate the driveshaft with the U-joint - then put the 4 nuts on http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%201%20Kneeling%20position%20-%20rear%20view%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%202%20Kneeling%20position%20-%20side%20view%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%203%20Kneeling%20position%20-%20front%20side%20view%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%204%20Kneeling%20front%20view%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%205%20Parts%20removed%20in%2010%20minutes%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%206%20Centerstand%20tie-down%20strap%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%207%20Wheel%20out%201%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%208%20Worms-eye%20view%20of%20rear%20wheel%20well%20(Small).JPG http://www.venturerider.org/firstgenwheel/Rear%20wheel%20removal%20-%209%20Rear%20brake%20caliper%20bracket%20position%20pin%20(Small).JPG 1
Freebird Posted September 8, 2006 Author #2 Posted September 8, 2006 Submitted by Bill Anton B-E-S-T Rear Wheel Removal 83-93 Venture If you use the rear wheel removal procedure in the XVZ13D Yamaha Genuine Service Manual (pages 6-7 through 6-10) the method describe here requires SO MUCH less disassembly and saves SO MUCH time. The limitation is that you must have or can find a suitable location to park the bike to do the job. The benefit is that you can save most of the "official" procedure time by removing only the essential parts similar to a sport bike instead of a dresser bike. B-E-S-T is a memory-aid acronym for: Bike Extending Some Tail BACKGROUND INFORMATION ====================== With the bike on the centerstand, the bottom of the rear fender is about 14" above the ground, and it has moved rearward about 11" from where it was when the centerstand first touched the ground. The rear tire is about 25"-26" tall, which means that having about 10" of additional space below the rear fender will allow easier rear wheel removal. Instead of having to dig a 10" hole beneath the rear wheel, this procedure uses an existing location to gain that space. What you need to do is to park the bike with the rear wheel hanging out over a 10" lower surface (example: a curb). Sounds difficult or almost impossible, but it's not done without the aid of some blocking material (wood or concrete blocks). The ideal location will have access to safely drive the motorcycle onto a concrete elevated surface, and then back it to NEAR the edge of the lower surface. CAUTION: DO NOT attempt to drive up a ramp that you cannot put your feet down on both sides at the same time, otherwise a fall could occur. DISASSEMBLY =========== 1. Remove as much weight as practical from the saddlebags and trunk to make the rear lighter for safety while working under it. 2. Back the bike onto a sturdy "structure" extending at least 12" beyond the edge of the current surface, so the tire directly below the rear axel is about 4" beyond the edge and at least 10" above the lower surface. NOTE: The extra length of the sturdy structure is for safety in the event that the bike were to accidentally roll rearward too far for a perfect stop point without a sturdy structure. 3. Put the bike on the centerstand. 4. Remove the structure from the edge. 5. Loosen the right muffler-to-exhaust clamping bolt - 12mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 14 ft-lbs. 6. Remove the right muffler mounting bolt - 14mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 18 ft-lbs. 7. Remove the muffler. 8. Remove the rear brake caliper - 2, 12mm bolts. REASSEMBLY - Torque 32 ft-lbs. TIP: Use axel wrench flat end to spread the brake pads during reassemble. 9. Loosen (not remove) the rear axel pinch bolt - 12mm. REASSEMBLY - Torque 14 ft-lbs. TIP: If the cotter key is aligned verticle, file marks on the pinch bolt end of the axel for easier future alignment. If it isn't aligned verticle, make the marks when you have the axel out. 10. Remove the rear axle nut and washer - 27mm flat wrench. REASSEMBLY - Torque 110 ft-lbs. TIP: Replace the cotter key with a 5/32" hitch pin (Lowes / Home Depot). 11. Remove the axle. Notice the caliper bracket washer, it goes between the bracket and the swingarm. 12. Remove the 4 final drive attaching nuts - 14mm. then reattach one lower nut 1 1/2 turns so the drive shaft can't pull out of the U-joint and waste a lot of time to put it back together. REASSEMBLY - Torque 30 ft-lb 13. Pull the final drive rearward until it is against the nut. This gives a little more clearance to get the tire past the final drive. CAUTION: The wheel and tire weigh about 42 pounds. Be prepared for step 14. 14. Pull the wheel away from the final drive, and out of the swing arm. 15. Roll the rear wheel out under the fender and do what you removed it for. REASSEMBLY ========== Reverse the disassembly steps.
Freebird Posted September 8, 2006 Author #3 Posted September 8, 2006 S-U-P-E-R Rear Wheel Removal System for 83-93 Yamaha Venture (+ others) What does S-U-P-E-R stand for? --------> Simplified ----------> Unassembly ------------> Procedure --------------> Especially ----------------> Rewarding What is so SUPER about a "system" for removing the rear wheel, and how can it be "simplified" and "especially rewarding"? If you have NEVER removed a rear wheel from a 1st generation Venture, you probably don't have a good perspective of how much is involved (time and parts count). If you do have a good perspective, that may be a reason why you have never done it. If you HAVE removed a rear wheel from a 1st generation Venture, you would probably not be happy if you unexpectedly had to do it again ---- but keep reading, and you may have hope that it can almost be made as easy as if you had the bike on a hoist!!! The S-U-P-E-R system can apply to other motorcycles with a centerstand, that require disassembly of many parts in order to get the rear wheel off. ============================== DISCLAIMER =============================== ********* USE THIS INFORMATION AT YOUR OWN RISK ********* Working around any large moving or movable object such as a motorcycle, can result in injury or worse. Common sense should tell you that motorcycles can fall or be knocked down much easier than a vehicle with more than 2 wheels, so expect that some condition that you didn't anticipate could cause the bike to fall during this or any other wheel removal. Location - location - location. Just like many things in life, where an activity takes place can have a major effect on the results. The best place to perform a wheel removal is on a level concrete surface. Asphalt and dirt can give-way to changes in heat and moisture, causing the bike to become unstable. The distribution of the bikes weight front to back at various stages of the procedure can change, and may need to be compensated for by relocating weights on/in the bike. The most practical places to add or remove weights are the saddlebags and the trunk. The amount of fuel can be a factor that can also change the bikes balance from one time to another. Although the job has and can be done by one person, an assistant to help with holding or moving weights could make the process a little easier and safer. ============================ DISCLAIMER ENDS ============================ BACKGROUND INFORMATION ====================== The Genuine Yamaha Service Manual (pages 6-7 through 6-10) has the official rear wheel removal procedure for the 86-93 Venture. The preparations to get to the point to "start" removing the rear wheel are summarized below. Things that you don't have to do in the S-U-P-E-R system are preceded by a *, and for step 1 you only have to remove one muffler. 1. Remove both mufflers ............... 2 bolts removed + 2 bolts loosened * 2. Remove right saddlebag lid ......... open 2 locks * 3. Remove turn signal bulb ............ Unplug from bottom of saddlebag * 4. Remove rear-center reflector ....... 2 nuts & 2 washers * 5. Remove rear-center ornamental band . 4 bolts * 6. Remove fender cover ................ 2 bolts * 7. Remove black right-side cover ...... 2 screws * 8. Remove saddlebag ................... 4 bolts * 9. Remove saddlebag stay (bracket) .... 3 bolts *10. Remove rear fender ................. 4 bolts Total bolts/nuts/screws: ............ 27 TOTAL TIME: = make a wild guess What does the S-U-P-E-R system do to prepare to remove the rear wheel? The list follows. 1. Attach 1 or 2 tie-down straps from centerstand to engine guard 2. Remove the right muffler ........... 1 bolt removed + 1 bolt loosened !! HERE'S WHERE IT GETS REALLY DIFFERENT from the official version !! 3. Remove both FRONT brake calipers ... 4 bolts 4. Loosen the FRONT axel pinch bolt ... 1 bolt loosened 5. Remove the FRONT axel bolt ......... 1 bolt 6. Remove the FRONT wheel ............. 1 front wheel Total bolts/wheel: .................. 9 TOTAL TIME: = 5-8 minutes From a parts count, S-U-P-E-R looks "Simplified", but what about the "Especially Rewarding"? Wouldn't you feel that the information is especially rewarding if you can do the same job in dramatically less time compared to someone "following the book"? The main purpose of the official procedure is to remove many parts, directed at the goal -----> to get the rear fender (the lowest part behind the rear wheel) off so that the wheel can be removed. The main purpose of the S-U-P-E-R system is to remove as few parts as possible (remember, everything disassembled has to be reassembled) directed at the goal -----> to increase the space below the rear fender (which stays on the bike) to make rear wheel removal easier. SAFETY FIRST ============ This procedure includes a safety feature that can be applied when removing the rear wheel of any centerstand motorcycle. The feature is to connect a tie-down strap between the centerstand and a point on the front of the frame or engine guard. This all but guarantees that the bike can't roll (or even be pushed) forward off the centerstand while pulling and pushing on things. It is especially functional because of the position that the procedure puts the bike into. I can't say that the tie-downs are absolutely necessary, but it is cheap insurance to minimize the chance of the bike falling if it is accidentally bumped! CONSIDERATIONS ============== The amount of fuel in the tank and the weight of items in the trunk and saddlebags can affect the balance of weight on the front and rear of the bike, thereby affecting the ability of the bike to stay in one position or the other (front wheel down or rear wheel down). HISTORY ======= Before I actually needed to remove the rear wheel, I did remove the front wheel and lower the front end of the bike quite successfully 4 times. With the tools and tie-downs and the cardboard/carpet set out, I once took about 4 1/2 minutes (not even rushing) to remove the front axel, and have the bike kneeling (it will be explained). While I was still randomly working on this documentation, I got a rear tire flat. Again, with things set out, I had the rear wheel off in ------ 10 minutes 28 seconds!!!! I even had to take time to get the 14mm socket from the tool kit because I forgot to set it out, so I probably had the rear wheel off in less than 10 minutes ----- again, with just normal speed work. Maybe a motorcycle mechanic with a lift and air tools can do it faster, but not on a lonely stretch of road in Texas. THE BASIC KNEELING SEQUENCE PREVIEW =================================== At 5' 9" and 155 lbs, the lowering and lifting weight on the front-end of the bike wasn't uncontrollable -- 116 lbs with the fork tubes on my digital scale (1/2 tank of gas and maybe 20 pounds in the saddlebags and trunk). If you can hold a bathroom scale, and have someone push down on it with 130 lbs, you should be able to do the job by yourself -- just believe that it can be done. 1. Beginning from the condition of the front wheel removed 2. Start slowly pulling down on the fairing near the mirrors 3. As the pull-down becomes easier, slide one hand under the fairing for support 4. Squat a little as the fairing gets lower 5. As the weight increases, bring the other hand down for more support - The lift-up is just the reverse sequence. When you have 30 minutes free time for the disassemble / kneel / reassemble, try it yourself to see just how easy it is before you really need to do it.
BradT Posted September 8, 2006 #4 Posted September 8, 2006 I dropped mine without the front tire once, The centre stand kicked back up and it sure was scary. BE very careful the centre stand does not go up, it can be a real pain lifting it back up. Brad
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