I need clutch help...

[Guest human4m]

So, after the stealership went through the carbs, the bike runs OUTSTANDING once again... I took it home, went for a ride... Rode to work, and sure enough... The clutch is slipping. The clutch holds fine when I ride it like a Harley, but when I open it up to where she belongs, that's when the slippage occurs. I never pull a trailer, and don't carry much of a load. We do ride 2-Up, but the wife isn't even 120lbs.

 

 

I've read through all of the forums on the PCW Clutch kit, I believe that's the 'way to go' with the VMax springs (correct me if I'm wrong) and from what I gather the kit is under $100.

 

Well, with the recently acquired Vet bills, spending anywhere near $100 is a No-Go, at least until next month, and with this weekend forecast sitting at 76 degrees & sunny, I'll be hard pressed to take the cage anywhere.

 

Not to sound like an idiot, but is it safe to assume there's not 'adjustment' to the clutch, and if I keep riding while it's slipping, it'll cause more problems for later? If anyone HAS a clutch kit that'll work in my 97 RSTC and needs some computer work done, maybe we can work something out?

 

 

Then again, I'm sure a clutch kit isn't something that people have just laying around. Err.

 

***See how sad Murphy looks when Daddy can't go riding?

[capn eddie]

skydoc has what you need in the second gen parts in the classified sec. under clutch upgrade for $67.00 easy to do yourself. most times the clutch dics are still good the spring plate is what goes on these bikes.

[SilvrT]

You may find that if you take the clutch apart and "scuff" the friction discs and plates up a bit with emery paper, it will help and get you by until you can afford to spend a few bucks. Your only cost will be for a gasket.

[GeorgeS]

Just replace the Springs, if money is tight !! Most likley will be good for another 20 to 30K

[FreezyRider]

Not sure about the spring setup that the 1997 TC uses, but I have a used stock spring from a 1st Gen Venture that you can have if it will help. Somebody know if they are the same? From the drawings, they look pretty similar.

 

Joe

[Condor]

OK, before going for the juggler and rebuilding everything. Tell us how, when, and how bad it slips. Also milage on the scoot and when was the last time the clutch fluid was replaced...

[Guest human4m]

OK, before going for the juggler and rebuilding everything. Tell us how, when, and how bad it slips. Also mileage on the scoot and when was the last time the clutch fluid was replaced...

 

It slips under any hard acceleration, in any gear. For instance, I was in 3rd gear, running 45mph'ish, with a truck a little too close behind me, so I rolled into the throttle and for the first 2 seconds it was scootin right along, but then it just revved up real quick all of a sudden, and wasn't accelerating ANYWHERE near what it was. Almost sounded like I pulled in the clutch and goosed the throttle.

 

Another instance, I was hitting an On-Ramp on the way to work, and in an effort to get up to the 70mph speed limit, I was pushing it (but not REALLY hard) and it slipped in 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and again in 5th when I tried to go from 70 to 78mph. If I don't SLOWLY bring the RPM's up, it just starts slipping.

 

Neither occasion did I ever go WOT.

 

40,100 miles on the bike, and was "TOLD" the clutch fluid was changed in early January at the Stealership.

 

I'm broke. Looking for something to get me riding this weekend, without looking/sounding like an idiot revving his motor all the time.

[Condor]

It slips under any hard acceleration, in any gear. For instance, I was in 3rd gear, running 45mph'ish, with a truck a little too close behind me, so I rolled into the throttle and for the first 2 seconds it was scootin right along, but then it just revved up real quick all of a sudden, and wasn't accelerating ANYWHERE near what it was. Almost sounded like I pulled in the clutch and goosed the throttle.

 

Another instance, I was hitting an On-Ramp on the way to work, and in an effort to get up to the 70mph speed limit, I was pushing it (but not REALLY hard) and it slipped in 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and again in 5th when I tried to go from 70 to 78mph. If I don't SLOWLY bring the RPM's up, it just starts slipping.

 

 

OK, does it slip when you first start out, or after you've been riding for a while??

[GeorgeS]

Sounds like the minimum you can get by with, is a New Gasket, for the cover, and a new set of Springs.

 

Your PLATES are Not worn out. General consencious is that the plates Do Not wear much at all.

 

But the Springs are to weak, I had the same problem at about 35K, I installed a Barnett Clutch, But, $$$$

 

Just order a new set of Stock, or V-Max springs. and a New Gasket for the Cover.

 

They are EASY to change, No Big Deal, ( a 1 bottle of Beer Job ) !!!!

 

I think, cost is about $25.00 Approximatly.

[Guest human4m]

OK, does it slip when you first start out, or after you've been riding for a while??

 

All the time. Cold, warm, hot...

[Guest human4m]

Sounds like the minimum you can get by with, is a New Gasket, for the cover, and a new set of Springs.

 

Your PLATES are Not worn out. General consencious is that the plates Do Not wear much at all.

 

But the Springs are to weak, I had the same problem at about 35K, I installed a Barnett Clutch, But, $$$$

 

Just order a new set of Stock, or V-Max springs. and a New Gasket for the Cover.

 

They are EASY to change, No Big Deal, ( a 1 bottle of Beer Job ) !!!!

 

I think, cost is about $25.00 Approximatly.

 

Any chance you can tell me the part numbers I need for when I call the stealership?

[capn eddie]

going by the parts listing for this bike there is only one spring plate for his bike and it lists for $45.00 not counting the gasget. Of course this only applys to a stock setup, that is why skydoc's clutch upgrade is a good deal because you get a new stronger spring plate , a friction plate to get rid of the junk dampner plate and the gasget for $67.00 shipped to you

[Guest human4m]

Unfortunately, I've only got about $20 to get through the weekend. I'm sure I'll order a kit from him after I sell my pistol, but until then things are TIGHT.

[capn eddie]

Not sure about the spring setup that the 1997 TC uses, but I have a used stock spring from a 1st Gen Venture that you can have if it will help. Somebody know if they are the same? From the drawings, they look pretty similar.

 

Joe

Yes joe it will work the last 5 # on the part list are the same , you can use the spring plate from a vmax also so this could give more time to ride for the cost of a gasget.

[Guest human4m]

Just called the Dealer, and of course he has NFC about the interchangeability of the clutch parts, and refused to look up the VMax springs. He tried to pitch sell me on a clutch upgrade kit that converts from diaphragm spring to standard coil spring setup...

 

Only $200+

 

Jeez, anybody wanna buy a pistol?

[FreezyRider]

Yes joe it will work the last 5 # on the part list are the same ' date=' you can use the spring plate from a vmax also so this could give more time to ride for the cost of a gasget.[/quote']

 

In that case, human4m, you can have a spring for just the cost of shipping. Heck, I'll ship it free if you want it. Indiana to NC shouldn't take too long. Give me your address and I'll drop it in the mail tomorrow morning.

As far as a gasket, you MAY be able to get by without one. Maybe. The secret is to be very very careful when you start to remove the clutch cover. Look at where the gasket is sticking, take a very thin-bladed knife and use it to "unstick" it a little at a time. If you get it off without tearing it where it goes across the bottom of the cover, you can reuse it without leaks. Just use a bit of Permatex gasket sealer on it to make sure it seals.

 

Let me know if you want the spring.

 

Joe

[FreezyRider]

Hey Patrick,

 

Another thing.....once you get this spring from me, you may want to use both the old and new spring together. Others have done this and it really makes a stiff clutch. Maybe too stiff for your hand, I don't know......

Just an option.

 

Joe

[Guest human4m]

Hey Patrick,

 

Another thing.....once you get this spring from me, you may want to use both the old and new spring together. Others have done this and it really makes a stiff clutch. Maybe too stiff for your hand, I don't know......

Just an option.

 

Joe

 

Well I haven't been inside the bike enough to even know what this clutch spring plate is gonna look like, but I figure if I can keep up with Microsoft's Technology on a daily basis, and change the clutch in my old Camaro, I figure this'll be somewhere right in the middle. From what I'm hearing, it sounds like the hardest part will be cutting a new gasket!

[LilBeaver]

Just for kicks - I know you said the clutch fluid was [supposedly] changed by the stealer in January. It is an easy check - just look through the little window on the clutch master cylinder. If it is clear or slightly yellowed, it is fine. If it is real dark then it needs to be changed. To change it, it is quite simple - all you need is a bottle of DOT4 fluid and a hose to fit over the bleed valve (same setup used for brakes).

 

I like to take a turkey baster and empty out the master cylider, wipe it out and get it nice and clean, then put in fresh fluid THEN begin the flushing process. This way you aren't putting old and dirty fluid thought the entire system (and it cuts down on the pumping time).

 

 

Most importantly here, as the clutch wears the fluid level will actually increase (which is counter intuitive, especially compared to the brake setup) BUT take a look and see if your fluid reservoir is completely full or not. If it is more than 1/2 full, you might try to suck a little out of there and then seal it back up (that is if you don't have to flush everything out anyways).

Now, from the sounds of it you do need to replace some parts, since if it was a matter of your reservoir being too full then it would get worse as the bike warms up, and you said that it is consistently bad. But, I figured it would be worth throwing out there since you are in a bit of a pinch anyways.

 

Sounds like Joe has you setup so all you need is a gasket anyways.

 

Good luck!!! Hope it all works well for you

[Guest human4m]

Just for kicks - I know you said the clutch fluid was [supposedly] changed by the stealer in January. It is an easy check - just look through the little window on the clutch master cylinder. If it is clear or slightly yellowed, it is fine. If it is real dark then it needs to be changed. To change it, it is quite simple - all you need is a bottle of DOT4 fluid and a hose to fit over the bleed valve (same setup used for brakes).

 

I like to take a turkey baster and empty out the master cylider, wipe it out and get it nice and clean, then put in fresh fluid THEN begin the flushing process. This way you aren't putting old and dirty fluid thought the entire system (and it cuts down on the pumping time).

 

 

Most importantly here, as the clutch wears the fluid level will actually increase (which is counter intuitive, especially compared to the brake setup) BUT take a look and see if your fluid reservoir is completely full or not. If it is more than 1/2 full, you might try to suck a little out of there and then seal it back up (that is if you don't have to flush everything out anyways).

Now, from the sounds of it you do need to replace some parts, since if it was a matter of your reservoir being too full then it would get worse as the bike warms up, and you said that it is consistently bad. But, I figured it would be worth throwing out there since you are in a bit of a pinch anyways.

 

Sounds like Joe has you setup so all you need is a gasket anyways.

 

Good luck!!! Hope it all works well for you

 

I went and took a look at it, and it looked EMPTY!!! So I start pulling the cover off, cussing the previous owner & dealership that sold it... Get the cover off.. It's not empty. It's just above the window, but it's perfectly clear... For once the S.O.B.'s didn't lie to me!

[Yammer Dan]

Call me and i'll run you thru quick fix that will hold you til you can get parts.

[Sylvester]

I will donate a clutch cover gasket, just give me the address on a pm. I bought it and didn't need it. Are you in Onslow County or Mitchell County (there are two Richlands, NC)? Let me know and I will come and install the spring and gasket.

 

Edited March 17, 2010 by Sylvester

[LilBeaver]

I will donate a clutch cover gasket, just give me the address on a pm. I bought it and didn't need it. Are you in Onslow County or Mitchell County (there are two Richlands, NC)? Let me know and I will come and install the spring and gasket.

 

 

 

WOW - Now THERE is a GREAT deal!!!!

[LilBeaver]

I went and took a look at it, and it looked EMPTY!!! So I start pulling the cover off, cussing the previous owner & dealership that sold it... Get the cover off.. It's not empty. It's just above the window, but it's perfectly clear... For once the S.O.B.'s didn't lie to me!

 

 

Well how about that!!

 

Yea, that stuff is a real bugger to see when it is clean - especially if it completely fills the window.

 

Sounds like you've got yourself setup though between Joe sending you the parts and Sylvester's gasket AND install!! You'll be on the road, slip free, in no time

[jburrell]

Well, Let me jump in here since I had the exact same problem. I rebuilt the slave cylinder and still had to have the master cylinder rebuilt. You say you had the bike at the stealership. Did they change the oil? If they changed the oil and used the wrong kind you rclutch will constantly slip( even if you rebuild the spring and add the new full plate) due to the modifiers that are in the oil. find out exactly what oil they used. Most likely they used the correct oil but then again it is a stealership and most don't know much about the Ventures. If they did change the oil. I would drain the oil and change it again. Lots easier than the clutch rebuild and less costly. You could even save the oil you are taking out in case that's not the issue. There has been a lot posted here about the clutch suddenly slipping after oil changes and its always a problem with the oil. Did the stealership change the oil? Did it change from std to synthetic? If so this may point to your issue.If the slave engages and disengages the clutch then its most likely not that part of the system and clutches don't suddenly just start slipping unless you are ripping it every shift. Now, I would really consider all that has happened and based on what you have said about it coming from PO to dealer. I would lean toward the oil being the culprit.

Did they change the oil as well and the clutch slave fluids? Also, Why in the world would they change the clutch fulids without being asked?

On the cheap, you can just add a second spring to resolve the slippage if its not an oil related issue. You just remove the cover and you will see the circular spring in the center of the clutch housing. Its so simple a Cave man can do it.

 

Just my 2:2cents:

 

James