Gauges Not Working?????

[StarRider07]

I talk with one of Mech. at work and he said very well could be air, that most gauges as a air bleeder on them, but he didn't know about this gauge...You can try to bleed the air off if you can..

 

Maybe someone else can chim in it..

 

This post was driving me nuts for a answer

 

Thanks Larry. As I mentioned to Cougar, I am going to bleed out the air today and will let you all know.

[StarRider07]

Greg, If you call or email them at iEquus I bet they

will send you a new one at no charge, there customer

support is great, I was working with them last month.

Here is there info.

 

www.iEquus.co

OR

service@iEquus.com

 

There phone number is 1-800-544-4124 or 714-241-6805

Fountian Valley, CA.

 

good luck!

Jeff

 

After I bleed out the line today if it still doesn't work, the place I bought it will swap it for me. Easier and faster than waiting for another one from Equus.

[Guest scarylarry]

[StarRider07]

Well, I am done. It was a defective oil gauge. Got it exchanged and the new one worked right away. And just so I didn't have to take it apart again, I bled the line before attaching to gauge.

Also got the AIS blocked. That was so easy. No more backfiring.

[Cougar]

Great!

[Guest scarylarry]

Great!

[dug050]

I don't profess to be an expert but I have been following this post and just thought I would make a few comments. You should not have to bleed the air out of the line on a mechanical oil pressure gauge. When the gauge is installed it is a closed system and the only leak you can have is if the fitting connections are not sealed. The gauge has a hollow tube in the shape of a spring that extends and shortens as the pressure changes. The spring has a mechanical connection that moves the needle as it changes length .

The column of air in the tube will be compressed until it equals the pressure of the oil pushing it (hope that makes sense) As long as there is oil going into the tube everything should work. By bleeding the air out it is the oil applying the pressure to the spring, if you don't bleed it, the air applies the pressure.

As the oil pressure increases the level of the oil should rise up the tube until the oil pressure and air pressure equalize and drop back down as it decreases.

 

I build model steam engines and we intentionally loop the tube to the pressure gauge on the boilers so the boiling water does not go into the pressure gauge.

 

Just my 2 cents...

 

Doug

[Freebird]

I agree with everything you said...though I couldn't have said it as well as you did. I've had oil pressure gauges on a lot of vehicles over the years and there is pretty much always air visible. When I installed my guage, I didn't bleed anything at all and though I haven't looked lately, there were at least several inches of air and it is probably still there. It may have compressed and look like less now but there still has to be air or I would have a leak somewhere. It read oil pressure as soon as I started the engine.

[Cougar]

Cougar Say's Before,,,

I am not sure you want the oil to reach ALL the way to the other end.

I don't think they work like that. to me it looks as if it did that there would be OIL

all over the inside of the fairing. thought they were for pressure.

I am still waiting for the email from Equss as well.

Mine will stay as it is with AIR in the line myself.

dug050, describes it very well.

Jeff

[StarRider07]

The column of air in the tube will be compressed until it equals the pressure of the oil pushing it (hope that makes sense) As long as there is oil going into the tube everything should work. By bleeding the air out it is the oil applying the pressure to the spring, if you don't bleed it, the air applies the pressure.

As the oil pressure increases the level of the oil should rise up the tube until the oil pressure and air pressure equalize and drop back down as it decreases.

Doug

 

Thanks for the info and it makes sense, however, I have since installed the good oil pressure gauge and this time I did bleed the line. Is this going to cause a leak now at or inside the oil gauge?????

[Monty]

No.

[dug050]

No, it should be fine, assuming your gauge is not defective the only place they can leak is at the fittings. You will know as soon as you start the engine, the pressure should register as soon as it starts. If it doesn't work I would disconnect the oil line from the gauge and blow the oil back down the tube and try again. If you have to disconnect the line have a good look at the compression fitting, sometimes they don't reseal properly if you try to re-use them.

 

Doug

[StarRider07]

No, it should be fine, assuming your gauge is not defective the only place they can leak is at the fittings. You will know as soon as you start the engine, the pressure should register as soon as it starts. If it doesn't work I would disconnect the oil line from the gauge and blow the oil back down the tube and try again. If you have to disconnect the line have a good look at the compression fitting, sometimes they don't reseal properly if you try to re-use them.

 

Doug

 

Hi Doug. The oil gauge is working fine now. The first one was defective. And, so far, no leaks anywhere.

[StarRider07]

Again, thanks to everyone that helped. The oil gauge and the other 2 are working good.

The oil gauge was defective, and my concern with the temp gauge had me thinking it too was either defective or I did something wrong, however with your help, I learned that it take a while for it to move which I got it to do after reving it up for 20 min or so.

Had the bike out for a 30 min run on Sunday and no problems. Temp gauge didn't move though but I am sure it had something to do with only being +6 C.

 

And thanks to Freebird for the instructions to block the AIS posted at:

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=485

 

When I put the Bubs on at the end of last year, there was a lot of backfiring. When starting it up in the garage over the winter, the backfiring was not only annoying, it made it sound like something was wrong with the bike and I didn't want anyone thinking my RSV ran like crap. Anyone not knowing about bikes and after market pipes would think that.

I followed Freebirds directions and photos and now I have no backfiring.

 

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Please donate something to this site. If you have the money, donate a lot.

If you don't have much extra cash, then donate a little. It all helps Dan out. It costs a lot of money keeping a site going, not to mention his time.

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Thank you everyone. My only regret is that I will never meet so many of you. And that saddens me. Riding season is here. Ride safe, keep your eyes open, your mind in focus and enjoy the freedom.

[friesman]

Again, thanks to everyone that helped.

 

Thank you everyone. My only regret is that I will never meet so many of you. And that saddens me. Riding season is here. Ride safe, keep your eyes open, your mind in focus and enjoy the freedom.

 

Well, if your regret is that you want to meet us then make sure youre at Kruisn the Kootenays in Nelson BC in July. Also, you may to drop a message to Rocket if you want to take a ride out to Wainwright, he is a fountain of knowledge on 1st gens and I would think some of that knowledge would translate to the 2nd gens also. Scotty in Camrose is another guy that has helped me out when my 85 was in Rockets hospital for sick 1st gens....lol. I think Rocket andScotty are both coming down to Nelson on the july long weekend so if youre looking for someone to ride with drop them a line.

 

Looking forward to meeting you

Brian

[dug050]

I'm glad everything is working for you now, sounds like you have my luck, if there are a hundred items on the shelf I'll get the one that doesn't work.

You should find that as the weather warms up your temperature gauge will respond faster. Right now, unless your bike is stored in a heated garage, the coolant and all the metal in the engine is the same temperature as the surrounding air. If your Equus gauges are the same as mine they don't start to register until the temperature reaches 130 degrees so it takes quite a while for the coolant to reach that temperature. If, after the weather gets warmer, it still takes a long time I would check to see if the thermostat is working properly (not stuck open). I only mention this because 20 minutes at a high idle seems a little long to me, even at 6 degrees. I bought a used vehicle one time that the previous owner had taken the thermostat right out, OK for summer but not much heat in the winter.

I'm old enough to remember when we would install a hotter thermostat in the car for winter driving to help the engine warm up faster and provide more heat but this is not required on the new vehicles since most of them use a 190 degree thermostat.

 

Enjoy the riding season!!!

 

Doug