Mel Posted March 8, 2010 #1 Posted March 8, 2010 Trying to remove the front cowlings on my 2007 RSV. I want to check air cleaners and get access to the hidden horn.The button head bolts are removed, cowlings flop around, but I can't get them loose from that dastardly (spelling is correct) little fastener thingy in the middle underneath where the two cowlings meet. Makes me want to scream. Help please?!??!! Mel:Venture:
MiCarl Posted March 8, 2010 #2 Posted March 8, 2010 That fastener thingy has a pin through it that locks it in place. I don't remember if it has a Phillips head (which screws out) or if you need to press it out from the back side. Once it's out you can pull the fastener and separate the halves. The halves have protrusions that press into a rubber grommet down there and need to be pulled forward to pop them out.
Mel Posted March 8, 2010 Author #3 Posted March 8, 2010 Thanks Carl. I did manage to finally get that fastener out, got the right side cowling off OK, then proceeded to break off the little spear shaped protrusion from the left cowling. I think I'll just leave it off, not glue it back on! Seems to be more trouble than it's worth.
V7Goose Posted March 8, 2010 #4 Posted March 8, 2010 That black plastic screw in the middle is actually a plastic reusable rivet. You unlock it by 1/4 turn ccw, then it can be pulled out. Be careful when you turn it and do not use a lot of pressure on the screwdriver so the post can come up enough to grab the head and pull. Sometimes the center part does not pop up when you unlock it, so if that happens, try using a larger jeweler's screwdriver to get under the head and pull it up - that center part must be pulled up to release the petals of the internal rivet in order to pull the whole thing out. But just getting the rivet out is not the whole thing. The ends of each cowling have a post that sticks into a rubber grommet below the radiator, and sometimes they are real tough to pull out. Those posts don't usually break off, but it is possible, especially if the rubber is cold. Make sure you pull the cowling ends straight forward, not down or twisted by pulling on the main cowling. If you do happen to break one, do not despair; they can be fixed as good as new - just give me a shout. Goose
slick97spirit Posted March 9, 2010 #5 Posted March 9, 2010 If you do happen to break one, do not despair; they can be fixed as good as new - just give me a shout. Goose Goose, I'm assuming your talking about repairing it using PVC cement? Is there another way? Mine is busted but stays in place just fine, but I'd like to repair it.
V7Goose Posted March 9, 2010 #6 Posted March 9, 2010 (edited) Yes, a proper plastic cement will weld the plastic back together, but not PVC cement. This is ABS plastic, so you will either need to use pipe joint cement labeled just for ABS or the universal stuff labeled for all three types of pipe - ABS, PVC and CPVC. Either will work fine, just make certain it says for ABS. Use plenty on the broken surface and wiggle to parts together to mix the edges of the melted plastic. Just make sure you let it cure in a warm location for several hours - overnight is best - to ensure all the solvent is gone and the plastic is back to full strength. Goose Edited March 10, 2010 by V7Goose correct bone-head mistake
Leland Posted March 10, 2010 #7 Posted March 10, 2010 I thought that this plastic was ABS instead of PVC.
V7Goose Posted March 10, 2010 #8 Posted March 10, 2010 I thought that this plastic was ABS instead of PVC. Oh man, you really caught me on that brain fart - gonna go back and edit that post right now! You are basolutely right, this is ABS plastic and MUST have a solvent glue specifically labeled for ABS. Thanx!!!!!!! Goose
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