What's the best electrical splice connection?

[Midrsv]

I'll be picking my new '07 RSV up next week and will have to splice into the electrical system in several places to connect lights and accessories. In the past I have used the scotch-loc type connectors but never felt that was the best method. Is there a better method? Also, where can I get a connector that will mate up with the 12V accessory plug under the seat?

 

Thanks,

DT

[ctraylor]

Every electrical connection I make I soldier and shrink wrap afterwards. It takes a little longer but will last forever.

[V7Goose]

Actually, a twist lock connection is a very good connection. In fact, any mechanical connection (metal to metal contact between the two pieces) is superior to a pure solder connection. The biggest potential problem with a mechanical connection is the potential for eventual loosening from vibration or other forces. The best possible solution is a good crimp connection which is then soldered for permanency. If you do decide to solder and shrink wrap the joints, the best idea is to ensure the wires are first tightly twisted together before soldering.

 

Now, the reality of automotive 12V connections is that the minor resistance increase from pure solder connections is meaningless. Either use good wire nuts or solder on any connection, and you will be just fine.

Goose

[mechanicjesus]

Wire nuts are not acceptable in an exposed environment. They can not be sealed from the weather and you will get corrosion.

[flb_78]

Actually, a twist lock connection is a very good connection. In fact, any mechanical connection (metal to metal contact between the two pieces) is superior to a pure solder connection. The biggest potential problem with a mechanical connection is the potential for eventual loosening from vibration or other forces. The best possible solution is a good crimp connection which is then soldered for permanency. If you do decide to solder and shrink wrap the joints, the best idea is to ensure the wires are first tightly twisted together before soldering.

 

Now, the reality of automotive 12V connections is that the minor resistance increase from pure solder connections is meaningless. Either use good wire nuts or solder on any connection, and you will be just fine.

Goose

 

 

Wire nuts? On a vehicle? NO, NO, NO!!!!

 

Im a mechanic in a truck stop and about half my work is redoing trailer wiring that has been hacked up by people wiring in extra crap and doing it improperly. I use heat shrink splice connectors or solder shrink connectors. You simply crimp these on and then heat em up with a mini-torch or cig lighter and it completely seals itself against the elements. DO NOT USE WIRE NUTS!!! If you like your electrical system, trust me on that one. You can find this style of heat shrink connector at most auto parts stores.

 

http://www.allproducts.com/manufacture13/uta/08-window_butt_splice.jpg

[Eck]

 

Is there a better method?

 

 

DT,

I used the information on in the below link a couple years ago when I was doing a technical write up for a company that I worked for on wire splice soldering.

This was/ is the best information about that subject.

I still use it to this day..

 

http://www.texastimers.com/helpful_hints/soldering_techniques.htm

[lowflyer07]

I would agree with flb_88. The best wire attachment is using a crimp connector; the problem is you have to use the proper crimping tool to make the connection. Using a pair of pliers or vice grips works for a emergency fix, but should not be thought of as permanent.

Where I work, we do wiring for commercial airliners, and on the most part, soldering a connection is TABOO. The best splice is crimped, but be sure you don't nick the wire when stripping off the insulation. A properly terminated connection will last a lot longer than a soldered one, and will not require solder to make it permanent. With all the vibration that an airplane experiences, crimping is the only method allowed.

If it's good for a Boeing 737, then it should be good for a motorcycle.

 

Lowflyer07

 

Ride Safe

[Al Bates]

I agree with Forrest (flb_78) on this one. Heat shrink splice connectors is what I use and some times soldier and shrink wrap. Never had any problem.

 

Sometimes real hands on and years of practical experience comes out to have the best solution.

[Midrsv]

Thanks for the info. I like the idea of the heat shrink splice connector for connecting two wire ends. How do you connect to an existing wire, no end available. I had previously used a scotchloc type connector that went over the existing wire and had a female spade connector off to one side.

 

I've got to connect:

Passing lamps

GPS

Brake light bar

battery tender

heated jacket connection

voltmeter

 

Thanks,

DT

[muffinman]

I personally use aircraft environmental splices they are a crimp type with a sealing agent that activates when you heat them up. When I put in a new fuse box I solder the wires to the pins for a longer life.

Jeff

[KiteSquid]

IF you are using heat shrink, get the adhesive-lined tubing.... it seals out the weather even better.

 

HERE is a link to 3M's website with the adhesive-lined tubing. it is available at all quality electronics parts houses.

 

Like muffinman stated, you can get crimp connectors with an adhesive-lined heat shrink sleeve...

 

 

HOWEVER I would prefer to splice in at the factory connectors.

 

Yamaha does a POOR job at listing the part numbers for the connectors in the parts manual... it does not exist.

 

I would prefer to get the male and female connectors and make a short extension between them in the same color code wire and crimp in a tap wire where I want it.... using all factory parts..... but as I stated above, it is next to impossible, as Yamaha does not list the parts in the parts manual.

 

 

Does anybody know how to find the part numbers, or probably better yet, the original manufacturer of the connectors in our bike's wiring harnesses??????

 

This would not be the least expensive route, but it would be the easiest to remove from the bike, when you go to sell it.......

[Christo]

This is EXACTLY what I was thinking as well. I hate having to tap into the existing wires and potentially creating a "weak-link" in the existing harness.

 

When I was wiring my trailer, I wanted to find the male female plastic connectors for our bikes so I could create a small sub-harness to use for any additional wiring and not affect the existing wires integrity.

 

 

IF you are using heat shrink, get the adhesive-lined tubing.... it seals out the weather even better.

 

HERE is a link to 3M's website with the adhesive-lined tubing. it is available at all quality electronics parts houses.

 

Like muffinman stated, you can get crimp connectors with an adhesive-lined heat shrink sleeve...

 

 

HOWEVER I would prefer to splice in at the factory connectors.

 

Yamaha does a POOR job at listing the part numbers for the connectors in the parts manual... it does not exist.

 

I would prefer to get the male and female connectors and make a short extension between them in the same color code wire and crimp in a tap wire where I want it.... using all factory parts..... but as I stated above, it is next to impossible, as Yamaha does not list the parts in the parts manual.

 

 

Does anybody know how to find the part numbers, or probably better yet, the original manufacturer of the connectors in our bike's wiring harnesses??????

 

This would not be the least expensive route, but it would be the easiest to remove from the bike, when you go to sell it.......

[KiteSquid]

Now if we could only be able to buy the connectors etc.... from Yamaha or an aftermarket supplier......

[helomech]

As an aircraft mechanic you just knew I had to weigh in on this topic!

 

I use the ---> Western Union splice technique . It is stronger by far than any other type of splice you can use. If done right it is just as weatherproof as the aviation style environmental splice and a whole lot cheaper. Another advantage is the thickness off the splice, it does not significantly increase the diameter of the wire which keeps the bulges out of your wire bundles. Also, keep in mind that the crimp on splices are only as good as your crimper, and the cost of the proper tool is cost prohibitive for most do it yourselfers. The Western union technique is used extensively by Bell Helicopter and is one of the recommended repairs in their electrical standard practices manual. I often use the environmental splice shrink sleeves over my western union joints. I guarantee that there is no type of crimp on splice that is stronger. I use Kester 44 rosin core solder for everything, along with a bit of electronics flux (radio Shack) on each wire before twisting together. I challenge anyone to pull test this against any crimp-on splice you can buy. Your wire will break before this splice pulls apart. Another advantage is that you don't have to stock a bunch of different sizes of splices for different sizes of wire.

 

Now if we could only be able to buy the connectors etc.... from Yamaha or an aftermarket supplier......

 

I found that the pins and sockets for common molex connectors work fine in our connectors, they can be found very cheap at radio shack as well. radio shack also has a very inexpensive crimper and an extraction/insertion tool for these connectors.

My