new bike small problems

[curtis]

I just purchased a bike that had been wrecked and sat for three years. The only problem with it is that the plastic got hurt. I have put everything back together except for the plastic. It will run and sound good however, when I put it into gear it dies. I have bleed the clutch. Is there something that has to be engaged before it can go into gear? The next question I have is how do I bleed the brakes? I am not use to working on motorcycles I normally work on cars. This bike sat for three years with no fluid in front lines. On a car I can open up the bleeders and gravity bleed to get fluid down to calipers. I can't seem to get it to work on my bike. I would love any help Thanks.

 

Wow I am impressed with your site. 15 minutes and three answers. I will be your newest member. Thanks for the brakes I never thought about a vacuum bleeder. As far as the kickstand I have a picture on my dash that shows the kickstand when down it goes out when I put up could it still be bad. Does the center stand make a difference whether it is up or not. This is a 1988 sorry forgot to put year and I am in Oak ridge TN.

Edited March 8, 2010 by curtis
More information

[Kregerdoodle]

check and see if it has a kickstand switch, it may be broke or just bad....that would kill the engine when it is put in gear. get a set of speed bleeders and a hand pump vacume pump for your breaks, and give that a try..

 

Good luck and post some pics!!

[Squidley]

check and see if it has a kickstand switch, it may be broke or just bad....that would kill the engine when it is put in gear. get a set of speed bleeders and a hand pump vacume pump for your breaks, and give that a try..

 

Good luck and post some pics!!

 

Kreg is on the money, if it just pukes as soon as you put it in gear I would suspect the kickstand switch also. The brake bleeding can be a tedious job, dont know where in Tennessee you are, but there are a few members there that ar very helpful and knowledgeable. RandyA is the 1st one that comes to mind in Johnson City.

[Monty]

Where at in Tennessee?

 

Yours is an '88, right? It helps if we know which year it is.

 

My '83 had a jumper where the kickstand switch was. Must have gone bad.

 

If it sat for 3 years, the fluid may have gummed up in the lines. You might try disconnecting the lines and blowing air thru them.

 

On the older Ventures, the rear brake pedal applies the left front brake, as well as the rear. The front brake lever applies the right front brake.

[buddy]

My side stand switch went bad on a trip one time, died going down the hwy at 65mph that was no fun either.200mi from home Lucky I read here a lot and knew what to look for, sure enough the side stand switch was bad. starts OK in Neutral but put in gear it will die. I by passed the switch by the pig tail by tying the three wires together and We was back on the road again in no time.

[Monty]

Not sure how the light in the display ties into it, I haven't checked the schematics. I do know that sometimes, while riding down the road, my kickstand down indicator would come on and show it down. It didn't run any different though. As I said, mine was jumpered out. The wiring diagrams can be found here in the forums, under first generation technical library.

[skydoc_17]

Hey Curtis,

I have a good used kickstand switch, if you pay the shipping, it's yours. It is from a 86'VR but will fit just fine. Welcome to the site, you've come to the right place.

Earl

[6m459]

I find a large bore medical syringe to be a very useful tool when bleeding m/c brake lines.

 

http://gibdykelodge.co.uk/hypodermic2.jpg

 

I (remove the needle) get a short length of plastic hose that will go over the bleed nipple at one end and the syringe flange at the other end and then draw out the bubbles with the vaccum created when backing out the plunger. Go slowly so as not to collapse the hose and watch the reservoir for low fluid, topping up as nessessary to avoid drawing in air.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Brian H.

[Kirby]

I find a large bore medical syringe to be a very useful tool when bleeding m/c brake lines.

 

http://gibdykelodge.co.uk/hypodermic2.jpg

 

I (remove the needle) get a short length of plastic hose that will go over the bleed nipple at one end and the syringe flange at the other end and then draw out the bubbles with the vaccum created when backing out the plunger. Go slowly so as not to collapse the hose and watch the reservoir for low fluid, topping up as nessessary to avoid drawing in air.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Brian H.

 

 

 

Never thought of this. I'm gonna try this out. Looks like a good idea!!! Thanks

[bongobobny]

Having had the exact same problem before, my vote is for the kickstand switch also.. If you ohm it out, anything highr than .XXX ohms is too much. Mine read around 6 ohms...

[big dude]

got mine at tractor supply store. large animal syringe comes in wraper so no contamination!! couple bucks or less.