Hotrod Posted March 4, 2010 #1 Posted March 4, 2010 First of all, let me say that I love My 2007 RSV,but I changed my spark plugs for the first time yesterday, and it wound up being a 2 hour job. It took longer than it does to do my 1996 Mazda V-6 pick up. After removing the seat and draining and removing the tank and the dog bone braces on the front of the engine,it is hard to get enough slack in the coil wires to get them out of the holes to be able to get to the spark plugs.This may be easy for some of you,but it was a pain in the rump for me. I learned a few tricks, so maybe it will go a little faster next time. It took an hour and 45 minutes to take off enough parts to get at the plugs and reassemble and 15 minutes to change the plugs.What a pain!
Eck Posted March 4, 2010 #2 Posted March 4, 2010 Sounds like we have another skilled mechanic to help out at our Florida Maintenance days.. Some things are very easy on the RSV... and some things are very time consuming. All in all though I think it is a fairly easy bike to work on. Wanna try tearing a Goldwing apart..dang what a mess..
aharbi Posted March 4, 2010 #3 Posted March 4, 2010 That is why I used Iridium Spark Plugs when I replaced mine. Hope to not see them again for another 50k miles.
Guest human4m Posted March 4, 2010 #4 Posted March 4, 2010 So I guess I should feel blessed that I was able to change my plugs in about 10 minutes. (That uncludes gapping them, and stopping for a smoke.) My biggest hurdle was finding an 18mm socket with thin-enough walls to get down in there. Ended up using SAE to do it.
SilvrT Posted March 4, 2010 #5 Posted March 4, 2010 First of all, let me say that I love My 2007 RSV,but I changed my spark plugs for the first time yesterday, and it wound up being a 2 hour job. It took longer than it does to do my 1996 Mazda V-6 pick up. After removing the seat and draining and removing the tank and the dog bone braces on the front of the engine,it is hard to get enough slack in the coil wires to get them out of the holes to be able to get to the spark plugs.This may be easy for some of you,but it was a pain in the rump for me. I learned a few tricks, so maybe it will go a little faster next time. It took an hour and 45 minutes to take off enough parts to get at the plugs and reassemble and 15 minutes to change the plugs.What a pain! Sorry to hear that this was so "painful" for ya. Maybe after a little practise you'll knock that time down to about 30 min which is what it took me the first time around. I didn't have to drain the tank tho so maybe that saved me some time. I agree about the lack of slack in the plug wires but a little twisting and yanking gets them outta the way enuf. Now, you want something that is a real pain to change plugs on...try doing it on a '65 Sunbeam Tiger with the V8 engine! If I recall correctly I think it's the left rear plug that will take ya twice as long to change as it does for all the other 7 plugs.
SteveW Posted March 4, 2010 #6 Posted March 4, 2010 This might help The last time I replaced the plugs I took off the seat and rear tank bolt. Then loosened the front bolts and removed the right side bolt. You can then tip the tank up on that side to remove the dog bone and replace the plug. then repate on the left side. Did not have to remove the tank. Worked fine for me.
Seaking Posted March 4, 2010 #7 Posted March 4, 2010 First of all, let me say that I love My 2007 RSV,but I changed my spark plugs for the first time yesterday, and it wound up being a 2 hour job. It took longer than it does to do my 1996 Mazda V-6 pick up. After removing the seat and draining and removing the tank and the dog bone braces on the front of the engine,it is hard to get enough slack in the coil wires to get them out of the holes to be able to get to the spark plugs.This may be easy for some of you,but it was a pain in the rump for me. I learned a few tricks, so maybe it will go a little faster next time. It took an hour and 45 minutes to take off enough parts to get at the plugs and reassemble and 15 minutes to change the plugs.What a pain! So you haven't changed your fuel filter yet? hehehe... once you changed your fuel filter, you'll appreciate how easy it was to change your plugs.. =) Which reminds me, I have to do mine soon.. grrr What is the proper periodicity to change plugs on this bike? Do Iridiums really last long to make it worth the while? Having put 33,500 miles on the bike last year, that's a lot of oil changes!! I think I changed the plugs 3 times last summer, on spec, they aren't expensive..
BigBoyinMS Posted March 4, 2010 #8 Posted March 4, 2010 Now, you want something that is a real pain to change plugs on...try doing it on a '65 Sunbeam Tiger with the V8 engine! If I recall correctly I think it's the left rear plug that will take ya twice as long to change as it does for all the other 7 plugs. Try a '75 Chevy Monza with a 262 V8. The Monza was basically a re-skinned Vega and they offered it with a small-block. If I remember correctly I had to take off the right wheel and unbolt the left mount to raise the left side of the engine. I don't know if it was as bad as a 260 or 289 Tiger but it would hang with my 350 Chevelle that I had at the time! http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/chevrolet-monza-1.jpg
SilvrT Posted March 4, 2010 #9 Posted March 4, 2010 Try a '75 Chevy Monza with a 262 V8. The Monza was basically a re-skinned Vega and they offered it with a small-block. If I remember correctly I had to take off the right wheel and unbolt the left mount to raise the left side of the engine. I don't know if it was as bad as a 260 or 289 Tiger but it would hang with my 350 Chevelle that I had at the time! On the Tiger, you have to pull back the carpeting under the dash on the hump, remove an access panel that's about 5 inches square and "feel" your way to the plug. It's a job that will guarantee more than one skinned knuckle and if you don't have small hands, forget it (probably the reason I was always the one who got to work on this car LOL) ... Now, this memory goes back 42 years and it's almost as clear in my mind as when I was doing it LOL.
cecdoo Posted March 4, 2010 #10 Posted March 4, 2010 That is why I used Iridium Spark Plugs when I replaced mine. Hope to not see them again for another 50k miles. :sign yeah that::sign yeah that: Craig
SilvrT Posted March 5, 2010 #11 Posted March 5, 2010 Try a '75 Chevy Monza with a 262 V8. The Monza was basically a re-skinned Vega and they offered it with a small-block. If I remember correctly I had to take off the right wheel and unbolt the left mount to raise the left side of the engine. I don't know if it was as bad as a 260 or 289 Tiger but it would hang with my 350 Chevelle that I had at the time! ummmmmm... I just re-read this and got me to wonderin ... how does takin the RIGHT wheel off have anything to do with the LEFT engine mount???
naturbar Posted March 5, 2010 #12 Posted March 5, 2010 ummmmmm... I just re-read this and got me to wonderin ... how does takin the RIGHT wheel off have anything to do with the LEFT engine mount??? good catch....lol :-)
N3FOL Posted March 5, 2010 #13 Posted March 5, 2010 +1 to skip on emptying the tank. It will for sure save you time and aggravation. The first time I did my plugs, I just yanked that tank out of the way so I can easily blow off any dirt sitting above the jugs before pulling my wires and plugs (a reminder from forum members made me remember do this part first). 1.5 hours is really not bad for a first timer. I think I also took that long to replace mine as I was taking my time and making sure that I don't miss any step along the way. Glad to hear that everthing went well. Ride Safe.
Freebird Posted March 5, 2010 #14 Posted March 5, 2010 I think you folks are making this way harder than it needs to be. You don't need to completely remove the tank. You don't have to disconnect the fuel line or remove the ignition shroud. Just unbolt the tank and lift it up enough to get the bolts out of the braces.
ahoutzer Posted March 5, 2010 #15 Posted March 5, 2010 On the RSV, I don't drain the gas tank -- just take it off. It's only three bolts (after removing the front seat -- two nuts), then move the petcock to OFF and pull the fuel hose off. Tank removal is a five minute job at most. After that, go straight to removing the dog bones and then pull the plug wires. Not as easy as the '67 Ford Falcon I used to have. That had a straight-six 200 cu. in. engine with the spark plugs all right on top, lined up and ready to pull.
Seaking Posted March 5, 2010 #16 Posted March 5, 2010 I think you folks are making this way harder than it needs to be. You don't need to completely remove the tank. You don't have to disconnect the fuel line or remove the ignition shroud. Just unbolt the tank and lift it up enough to get the bolts out of the braces. I'll have to give that a try next as I want to change my plugs out before the next riding season.. Seeing how the chart calls for spark plug changes at every 4,000 miles, does using Iridium Spark Plugs actually make a difference, if not in performance but in change periodicity? Seeing how I put 33,500 miles on the bike last year, that's a lot of oil changes and a lot of spark plug changes.. wow.. I didn't realize till now I might have actually been slack on some of this periodic maintenance..
Cougar Posted March 5, 2010 #17 Posted March 5, 2010 I just un-do tank bolts slide tank back about 4 inches, I am not even disconnecting the fuel line anymore. Take dog bones off. about a 20 min job? No need to remove tank. on the right side you can remove the (1) 8mm bolt to slide the brake res over a bit, (for that dog-bone) I now have a socket swivel allen now I am not do that anymore as well. Otherwise changing the plugs is around 15 to 20 Min's now for me. Doing this tomorrow is a matter of fact going to try E3 plugs this time around. Jeff
Freebird Posted March 5, 2010 #18 Posted March 5, 2010 I use the Iridium plugs but can't say that they make any difference at all in regards to performance. They are supposed to last longer. In my opinion though, there is absolutely NO reason to change the plugs every 4,000 miles. Whether using the Iridium plugs or Platinum plugs, I will change mine about every 20,000 miles unless there is a problem.
RossKean Posted March 5, 2010 #19 Posted March 5, 2010 Seaking I switched to the Iridiums last year and didn't notice any performance change (didn't expect any change). Normally, I wouldn't change the plugs before 15,000 km or more (9,400 miles). With the Iridiums, I don't plan to even check them before 50,000 km unless I have performance issues. Not sure why anyone has a problem with removing the tank. It doesn't take 10 minutes, makes things easier to work on, and gives me a chance to have a good look around and even clean things up a bit. Ross
Seaking Posted March 5, 2010 #20 Posted March 5, 2010 Seaking I switched to the Iridiums last year and didn't notice any performance change (didn't expect any change). Normally, I wouldn't change the plugs before 15,000 km or more (9,400 miles). With the Iridiums, I don't plan to even check them before 50,000 km unless I have performance issues. Not sure why anyone has a problem with removing the tank. It doesn't take 10 minutes, makes things easier to work on, and gives me a chance to have a good look around and even clean things up a bit. Ross Thanks Ross and Freebird.. My plugs got changed a lot last summer due to those weird fuel issues (fuel filter, fuel pump) and I had pulled them again in the fall and everything really looked normal, not sooty, not white.. Gapping them to the middle of the range is what I normally do.. But as Ross said, yeah, taking the tank all the way off isn't all that hard (even when full of fuel) and makes for an easier work space area.. I need to get the blade gapper instead of the wire one I currently use.. I know it's not much of a difference but I found in the past that layering the right amount of blades to slide in the gap and pressing the plug down onto it made for a more even gapping between plugs that the slipping of a wire through the gap.. a little too tight, little too loose, wearing out of the wire.. Or am I being just wee tad too fastidious with my plug gapping?
SilvrT Posted March 5, 2010 #21 Posted March 5, 2010 Seaking I switched to the Iridiums last year and didn't notice any performance change (didn't expect any change). Normally, I wouldn't change the plugs before 15,000 km or more (9,400 miles). With the Iridiums, I don't plan to even check them before 50,000 km unless I have performance issues. Not sure why anyone has a problem with removing the tank. It doesn't take 10 minutes, makes things easier to work on, and gives me a chance to have a good look around and even clean things up a bit. Ross I agree and also use the Iridium plugs and I had 18,000 km on the stock plugs when I swapped them out and they really weren't showing any signs of failure ... looked very normal so I probably won't even think about pulling the plugs again for probably 3 more riding season's.
RossKean Posted March 5, 2010 #22 Posted March 5, 2010 Seaking You may be a little too fussy with the gapping. I use a wire gauge and don't have problems with standard plugs. I did not gap my iridium plugs - I think they are properly pregapped and have been told it will damage them.
Freebird Posted March 5, 2010 #24 Posted March 5, 2010 If I remember correctly, they don't recommend gapping the Iridium plugs at all. I admit that I still check them before installing but haven't had to adjust any.
Seaking Posted March 5, 2010 #25 Posted March 5, 2010 Seaking You may be a little too fussy with the gapping. I use a wire gauge and don't have problems with standard plugs. I did not gap my iridium plugs - I think they are properly pregapped and have been told it will damage them. Prolly just an old throw back from my air force mechanical days.. "precision" on antiquated equipement Thanks for the info!
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