clint_1985 Posted March 4, 2010 #1 Posted March 4, 2010 Ok, so I saw the thread in the library about the battery bypass. I found what I think is the right wire. It's right behind the battery bow, and is white with a red stripe. Problem is the actual sensor is not there, it's been unplugged from the wire. The plastic connector is on the wire, but the sensor wire is missing. So am I looking at the right wire? And if so, how do I bypass it from there with the sensor wire missing? Thanks for the help guys.
bongobobny Posted March 4, 2010 #2 Posted March 4, 2010 Sounds like the right wire. To bypass the sensor, buy a 2,999 ohm resistor and connect it from the wire to the + connection of the battery. That should turn off the light. BTW the resistor value can be anywhere between 2000 and 10,000 ohms, 1/4 or 1/2 watt... If you are worried about battery drain, you can always hook the resistor to the red line on the fuse block instead of the battery terminal.
sparksterr Posted March 24, 2010 #3 Posted March 24, 2010 (edited) I just bought a gel cell with no sensor hole. So I was wondering how to defeat the light. I will try this right away, thanks. I took my box of resistors out and kept trying different ones till the light went out, (.994k X 2k) worked. Did the mod with buts and heat shrink. I bought a durabatt, last march /09 and it was toast already. (Never buy a batt made in China). This new one I bought from Napa, Glass/Gell = 300 cold cranking amps, hopefully i won't need another one for a very long time. Edited March 24, 2010 by sparksterr Additional info
Freebird Posted March 24, 2010 #4 Posted March 24, 2010 Here you go: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=489
bongobobny Posted March 24, 2010 #5 Posted March 24, 2010 I just bought a gel cell with no sensor hole. So I was wondering how to defeat the light. I will try this right away, thanks. I took my box of resistors out and kept trying different ones till the light went out, (.994k X 2k) worked. Did the mod with buts and heat shrink. I bought a durabatt, last march /09 and it was toast already. (Never buy a batt made in China). This new one I bought from Napa, Glass/Gell = 300 cold cranking amps, hopefully i won't need another one for a very long time. Just noticed my typo, should have been 2000.. Yah, whatever value makes it work, and will probably vary from CMI to CMI..
yamahale Posted June 14, 2015 #6 Posted June 14, 2015 many years ago(I am a tech) I found on a customers bike(cant remember what make/model)that merely connecting the sensor wire to the (+) terminal turns the warning off. Done it a few times since and currently on my 87 Venture. Seems to work a treat....
Flyinfool Posted June 14, 2015 #7 Posted June 14, 2015 (edited) many years ago(I am a tech) I found on a customers bike(cant remember what make/model)that merely connecting the sensor wire to the (+) terminal turns the warning off. Done it a few times since and currently on my 87 Venture. Seems to work a treat.... Wow, this is an old thread. Some have connected that wire direct and never had an issue BUT there are also a lot of people the have fried a CMS by connecting that wire direct to 12V. The CMS is expecting to see about 6 volts on that wire. A CMS will cost a lot more than that $0.25 resistor. Edited June 15, 2015 by Flyinfool
ChrisFrench Posted June 14, 2015 #8 Posted June 14, 2015 Wow, this is an old thread. Some have connected that wire direct and never had an issue BUT there are also a lot of people the have fried a CMI by connecting that wire direct to 12V. The CMI is expecting to see about 6 volts on that wire. A CMI will cost a lot more than that $0.25 resistor. Please note that the resistance value is 22 Ko and not 2.2 Ko With 2.2 KB, the computer taversant current is too important. This works but can burn the PIC. ChrisFrench
dna9656 Posted June 14, 2015 #9 Posted June 14, 2015 Not as old as you! I went through this when I bought my conventional battery. On my first 83 the new battery came with the resistor right in the box so i was somewhat put out when buying battery for the newer 83.5 (17 years later) there was no sensor and to buy one from the battery maker was $50.00, the battery was only $30.00 ! So I made my own "sensor". Wow, this is an old thread. Some have connected that wire direct and never had an issue BUT there are also a lot of people the have fried a CMI by connecting that wire direct to 12V. The CMI is expecting to see about 6 volts on that wire. A CMI will cost a lot more than that $0.25 resistor.
yamahale Posted June 14, 2015 #10 Posted June 14, 2015 yes old thread I have been skimming through the archives and this caught my eye...what is the CMI?
camos Posted June 14, 2015 #11 Posted June 14, 2015 yes old thread I have been skimming through the archives and this caught my eye...what is the CMI?Good question. Probably meant the CMS which is an acronym for Computer Monitor System which is the display unit in the middle of the dash that shows you all the warnings, the fuel level and gear positions.
skydoc_17 Posted June 15, 2015 #12 Posted June 15, 2015 This will also do the trick: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=58&title=first-gen-1983-1993-battery-icon-bypass-lead&cat=17 Earl
Flyinfool Posted June 15, 2015 #13 Posted June 15, 2015 Good question. Probably meant the CMS which is an acronym for Computer Monitor System which is the display unit in the middle of the dash that shows you all the warnings, the fuel level and gear positions. Yup. Meant CMS, brain fart..... Went back and fixed post.
donens Posted August 2, 2020 #14 Posted August 2, 2020 FreeBird: Just tried the bypass but although the battery icon goes out, it triggers the burned headlight icon to come on. So still red flashing light. If I remove the bypass the headlight warning goes out and the battery icon comes back on. Any ideas?
Pasta Burner Posted August 3, 2020 #15 Posted August 3, 2020 FreeBird: Just tried the bypass but although the battery icon goes out, it triggers the burned headlight icon to come on. So still red flashing light. If I remove the bypass the headlight warning goes out and the battery icon comes back on. Any ideas? Do you have some weird jumper wire going to the headlight harness? I really wish I had taken pictures and notes when I tore my 87 apart from all the bull**** the PO had going on. Mine had an odd jumper eliminating the low beam and that caused the headlight error. Even spent 30 bucks on a replacement headlight before I figured it out. Added a resistor to the sensor wire and that fixed the battery warning.
donens Posted August 3, 2020 #16 Posted August 3, 2020 Disconnected all the ACC extras to eliminate anything extra. What I can't figure out is why if I disconnect the battery resistor lead the headlight icon goes out, but with it connected BAT icon goes out but the Headlight icon comes on. Also, measured the resistors. It seems the resistor ohms measure about 50% of rating (ie. 1.8K measure just under 900 ohms). Is that normal? Should I be replacing the resistor with one that actually measures 1K to 2.2K ohms resistance?
luvmy40 Posted August 3, 2020 #17 Posted August 3, 2020 I have absolutely no idea if this is why the head light warning is coming on, but that resistor for the battery water indicator should be 22K ohm, not 2.2K ohm. That's 22,000 ohm
donens Posted August 3, 2020 #18 Posted August 3, 2020 I have absolutely no idea if this is why the head light warning is coming on, but that resistor for the battery water indicator should be 22K ohm, not 2.2K ohm. That's 22,000 ohm Is it best to go to the ACC or direct to the positive BAT post with the resistor link? Not sure why most of the info on resistor size on forums states 1K to 2K then.
luvmy40 Posted August 3, 2020 #19 Posted August 3, 2020 Personally, I'd tie it to the accessory connection. I've seen where people have just tied it straight to the battery and claimed it worked. I've also heard of the twelve volts direct doing bad things to the monitor board. I've seen all kind of different resistance values bandied about but the one I see the most is 22K ohm. It may not(and probably IS not) critical. I never worried about it. I just made a habit of acknowledging the alarm every ride.
donens Posted August 4, 2020 #20 Posted August 4, 2020 Well, tried resistor links 1.5k, 2.2k, 3.9k, 22k. Went directly to positive BAT post. Although difficult to tell manufacturer quality, since seems resistors had very inconsistent ohms. The only consistent link, for getting rid of the BAT icon, was the 3.9K. The 2.2K and 22K worked for a while then the icon came back. Then I reinstalled my auxiliary lights, as per the diagram attached. I did include an indicator LED light when the toggle is on. Wiring_Lights_3.pdf What I cannot explain, is the headlight icon showing after the BAT icon was gone. The weird part is that found out that the indicator LED was redundant, since the Display headlight icon comes on when the auxiliary light toggle is off and goes out when toggle is on. Can't explain why, which is perplexing. Thoughts??
Pasta Burner Posted August 4, 2020 #21 Posted August 4, 2020 Eliminate that relay. Wire either to the auxiliary terminal or fused direct to battery. (If you go direct to battery it wont be switched by the ignition key so you could forget to turn them off and drain your battery) You can also use a toggle switch that has an integrated indicator light for future switches.
Prairiehammer Posted August 4, 2020 #22 Posted August 4, 2020 Your auxiliary light diagram is correct. Don't eliminate the relay. Connect to the "ACC" terminal on the stock fuse block. The ACC terminal is "hot" only when the ignition switch is on. If you eliminate the relay, all the current for the driving lights will be going through the ignition switch. That is not good. With the relay, only the slight current required to trigger the relay is carried by the ACC circuit and the ignition switch. As for the CMS warning, I believe there is either something wrong with headlight wiring or there is something amiss within the CMS circuitry. There should be no relationship with the Battery warning and the headlight warning. Are you POSITIVE that you are in fact dealing with the battery electrolyte sensor wire and not some other wire? On your 1992 the battery sensor wire will be green with a blue stripe.
Pasta Burner Posted August 5, 2020 #23 Posted August 5, 2020 Your auxiliary light diagram is correct. Don't eliminate the relay. Connect to the "ACC" terminal on the stock fuse block. The ACC terminal is "hot" only when the ignition switch is on. If you eliminate the relay, all the current for the driving lights will be going through the ignition switch. That is not good. With the relay, only the slight current required to trigger the relay is carried by the ACC circuit and the ignition switch. As for the CMS warning, I believe there is either something wrong with headlight wiring or there is something amiss within the CMS circuitry. There should be no relationship with the Battery warning and the headlight warning. Are you POSITIVE that you are in fact dealing with the battery electrolyte sensor wire and not some other wire? On your 1992 the battery sensor wire will be green with a blue stripe. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=119370 sorry if I misspoke. Mine does not have a relay inline for the driving lights, (PO installed) maybe I should install one.
donens Posted August 5, 2020 #24 Posted August 5, 2020 Prairiehammer: According to my service manual covering 86-93 xvz1300, the battery sensor wire is suppose to be the white with red stripe. Can't find any mention of the green with blue stripe for the sensor.
Pasta Burner Posted August 5, 2020 #25 Posted August 5, 2020 The more I think about it, I don’t understand why you would care to have a relay if wired to the acc terminal.
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