bleeding brakes

[barend]

Take that anyway you want to

 

here's the question -I already pestered Earl with this but I did not explain myself properly, and the man should have to do everything! I pumped fluid from the rear bleeder to the master cylinder without a problem. I am trying to do the same in front, push fluid from the bleeder on the caliper through the line to the reservoir. Problem is that I seem to be blowing most of it out from between the tube and the bleeder as thought there is a block. I took the bleed screw out and it is clear. No fluid seems to be reaching the reservoir. What would cause this.

*It's a new master cylinder!!

[Dakota]

Which of the front are you doing? If it's the left, that's tied into the rear and works off the rear master cylinder, if it's the front right, I'd fill the front master cylinder and put a hose on the bleeder to a container and pump the hand brake to see if your getting any fluid into the container. When I first got my vr, it took me a while to find out how the brake system worked.

[GeorgeS]

You have to bleed the Rear, and left front, Go back and forth,

 

Bleed the L- Front, then Rear, then front , back and forth.

 

Bleed LOTS Of Fluid from both !!! Make sure you get ALL, of the fluid Replaced.

 

Do you know how long its been since the fluid in this brake system has been replaced?? If a lot of years, the stuff is CRUDDY!! REPLACE ALL OF THE FLUID.

 

Also, after you get them working, Be sure to leave at least 1/2 to 1 inch of space in the Fluid Resovoiur, for HEAT EXPANSION OF THE FLUID. IF NOT, the heat from rear Exhaust will over heat the fluid, IT WILL Expand, and Lock UP the Rear Brake !

 

IF you haveing trouble with the Rear, you might Remove the Line between Rear Caliper and the Resovoiur, and blow out the line, it might be plugged.

 

As long as your working on it, I strongly suggest you Remove the Rear Caliper, and Replace the Pads. The REAR, ususlly WEARS on One PAD, much more then the other Pad !! Best to Replace the Pads.

[Dano]

These MKI's are a pain to bleed the front left because there is no bleeder up at the neck joint. You've probably got an air bubble up there. Try pumping up the foot pedal quickly 3 or 4 times (then holding it down, might take two people unless you have really long arms!) and then cracking the front bleeder to see if you get fluid coming out at the caliper. If not, you may have blockage in the banjo bolt or the caliper itself.

 

Good luck

[barend]

Which of the front are you doing? If it's the left, that's tied into the rear and works off the rear master cylinder, if it's the front right, I'd fill the front master cylinder and put a hose on the bleeder to a container and pump the hand brake to see if your getting any fluid into the container. When I first got my vr, it took me a while to find out how the brake system worked.

Left front!

 

Do you know how long its been since the fluid in this brake system has been replaced?? If a lot of years, the stuff is CRUDDY!! REPLACE ALL OF THE FLUID. With the exception of the main cylinder the entire system was cleaned and flushed about 18 months ago. sort of, there was a lot of crud in the reservoir.

 

Also, after you get them working, Be sure to leave at least 1/2 to 1 inch of space in the Fluid Resovoiur, for HEAT EXPANSION OF THE FLUID. IF NOT, the heat from rear Exhaust will over heat the fluid, IT WILL Expand, and Lock UP the Rear Brake !

 

IF you haveing trouble with the Rear, you might Remove the Line between Rear Caliper and the Resovoiur, and blow out the line, it might be plugged. Rear is working fine and can push fluid through in both directions

 

As long as your working on it, I strongly suggest you Remove the Rear Caliper, and Replace the Pads. The REAR, ususlly WEARS on One PAD, much more then the other Pad !! Best to Replace the Pads.

Already done

 

These MKI's are a pain to bleed the front left because there is no bleeder up at the neck joint. You've probably got an air bubble up there. Try pumping up the foot pedal quickly 3 or 4 times (then holding it down, might take two people unless you have really long arms!) and then cracking the front bleeder to see if you get fluid coming out at the caliper. If not, you may have blockage in the banjo bolt or the caliper itself.

 

Good luck

I'm getting fluid when mashing the pedal had one small bubble but still bottoming out, I'll be working on it. I was trying to push fluid up and push any bubbles out into the reservoir, but that doesn't seem to work. Guess I'm going to try and reach the hard coupling under the fairing. Thanks.

[Dakota]

Since the left front works off the REAR master cylinder it's PITA. Do you access to a Mity Vac? If so, hook it up to the bleeder on the front caliper, pump it up to about 10-15psi on the gauge, open your bleeder screw but close before the gauge hits 0 zero. Repeat, but watch the fluid level in your rear master cylinder. If you don't have access to the Mity Vac, look in the service manual for bleeding instructions on the Rear/front left.

[bkuhr]

dont forget meter valve under steering head for left front. mine was plugged with rust, required complete removal-was a pain- to get it blown out.

[friesman]

dont forget meter valve under steering head for left front. mine was plugged with rust, required complete removal-was a pain- to get it blown out.

 

If Barend has MK1 he will have an issue as there wasnt a valve up at the steering head until 86 , i think. When we put the new ss lines on my 85 there was no bleeder valve up at the head, but there sure is now! It makes life a lot easier to get the crud out when you let the bubbles out of the top end.

 

Brian

[dingy]

If Barend has MK1 he will have an issue as there wasnt a valve up at the steering head until 86 , i think. When we put the new ss lines on my 85 there was no bleeder valve up at the head, but there sure is now! It makes life a lot easier to get the crud out when you let the bubbles out of the top end.

 

Brian

 

 

I am delinking brakes on my bike during its overhaul.

 

Also installing MKII forks, rotors, calipers and master cylinders.

 

I have a steering head bleeder port available.

 

Would this be useful with both front rotors working off of the front master, or is it not needed?

 

Gary

[barend]

Went and bought a Mighty Vac, we'll see how that goes in the morning:sun:

[skydoc_17]

Hey Gary,

The Bleed Port on the linked brakes is not needed if you delink the left front from the rear.

It's pretty much a strait drop from the master cylinder to the calipers. That system will bleed out in about 10 minutes.

Earl