2ND GEN. Riders, I NEED Your HELP!

[skydoc_17]

Second Gen. Riders,

As many of you already know, I hate getting ripped off and there are many issues with Yamaha Motorcycles that I think Yamaha could have addressed better. The rear shock on the RSV and RSTD is one of them! As with the rest of the "Kits" I sell in the Classifieds, I hope to bring a replacement shock to the VR.ORG members with cost and quality foremost in my mind.

I am working on a replacement shock for the Second Gen. RSV and RSTD because there doesn't seem to be a decent selection for these shocks when they fail. (And they will fail!)

My quest is to find something that is in the $300.00 or less range that will work on the RSV's and RSTD's. Does anyone have a shock removed that can give me a measurement,

from centerline of one eye to the centerline of the other eye, and approx. diameter?

Your help would benefit many Second Gen. Owners on this site. The next phase of this quest is to find a Second Gen. owner that is willing to install this new shock at a greatly discounted price to be my "crash test dummy" so to speak. Since I don't own a Second Gen. RSV or RSTD I have no way to test this new shock and again, I need your help.

Please keep an eye on this thread and when I find what I am looking for, I will post for a volunteer.

Thanks in advance for your help,

Earl

[StarFan]

Second Gen. Riders,

As many of you already know, I hate getting ripped off and there are many issues with Yamaha Motorcycles that I think Yamaha could have addressed better. The rear shock on the RSV and RSTD is one of them! As with the rest of the "Kits" I sell in the Classifieds, I hope to bring a replacement shock to the VR.ORG members with cost and quality foremost in my mind.

I am working on a replacement shock for the Second Gen. RSV and RSTD because there doesn't seem to be a decent selection for these shocks when they fail. (And they will fail!)

My quest is to find something that is in the $300.00 or less range that will work on the RSV's and RSTD's. Does anyone have a shock removed that can give me a measurement,

from centerline of one eye to the centerline of the other eye, and approx. diameter?

Your help would benefit many Second Gen. Owners on this site. The next phase of this quest is to find a Second Gen. owner that is willing to install this new shock at a greatly discounted price to be my "crash test dummy" so to speak. Since I don't own a Second Gen. RSV or RSTD I have no way to test this new shock and again, I need your help.

Please keep an eye on this thread and when I find what I am looking for, I will post for a volunteer.

Thanks in advance for your help,

Earl

 

Well,,,,,,,there is this green bike coming to your garage pretty soon,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Bit kinda got the shivers when i read "CRASH TEST DUMMY"

[Pecker]

I'll be willing to help you test out a shock setup. Don't "Crash test dummy" is the worst thing I have been called. I've been around and around with Yamaha over my shock failure and I agree, a change should have been made years ago.

So count me in.

Dave

[boominup]

I have a shock off of a 2003 RSV and here is what I can figure out as close as my scale will bring me:

C/L to C/L of holes is 9-15/16"

Bolt holes look like 7/16"...Would need to measure more closly with pins.

Dia of top section is about 3" dia

Width of top lug is 1 1/8"

Width INSIDE bottom lug is 1- 7/16"

Width OUTSIDE bottom lug is 1- 3/4"

I presume the actual dims are in metrics so if you need those conversions, I'd have to get my calipers at the shop.

Let me know if that helps.

Brian

[Little Bob]

If you need another crash dummy count me in. I would liketo try a new shock as I ride 2 up 90%of the time. Just let me know.

[YamaDuck]

I have a failed shock off a 2000MM I'll give you. PM me if you need it.

[BuddyRich]

My wife always leaves of the crash test part...

[frogmaster]

Earl,

 

I'm hurt you did not call me first (LOL). You know I would help you out anyway I can but still being in the Northern Michigan Ice Berg for 75 more days and distance will be our downfall. But if you have a Prototype ready for MD2010 and need a 2nd Gen RSV who averages 10,000 miles in 6 months that is 80% Two Up and 40% pulling Trailer 300lb-ish then I'm your Dummy mmmm..... Man

 

I agree nearly $700.00 for a Single Shock is CR@P! Thanks for doing this I will surely stay tuned.

[eusa1]

It will be interesting to see where this goes?

Your efforts will certainly be apreciated by myself and all the members

 

i can also offer a failed shock if you would like it for your trials.

 

I have looked over several of the failed shocks, and they all have the same problem, the chrome on the shaft of the dampner is very thin and wears through and takes out the seal.

Best of luck skydoc! And thank you.

Mike

[Bloodbought1]

Tagged

[Seaking]

Oooh interested to see where this goes.. Luckily for me I did manage to get my dead shock replaced after visiting you (Doc) last summer.. under warranty in Maine =) and what a difference that made..

 

but as you said.. it most likely will fail again so a fall back shock plan would be nice..

[Freebird]

It is an interesting idea and one that I had thought about also but never really looked. I really like the air shock but don't adjust mine very often since adding the leveling links several years ago. I've found that with the leveling links, about 35 psi works well for us whether I'm riding alone or two up or even pulling the trailer. I know that it varies depending upon rider weight and etc. so really think it must be adjustable.

[skydoc_17]

Hey Don,

You have brought up a very interesting point about the different riding levels that the RSV shock can be adjusted to with the air ride feature. As I understand it, isn't option "B" which is the Works Shock a non air adjustable shock that is "sprung" to the rider, passenger and any extra weight that is commonly carried on the motorcycle?

If I have missed something here, please let me know. I am not nearly as swift on the Second Gens., as I am the First Gens. but am willing to try to figure this issue out with everyone's help on the VR.ORG site. All comments and Information are welcome here, I am in my "Learning phase" :detective:which will allow me to sort out what would be a better alternative shock for the Second Gen. RSV's and RSTD's.

Thanks again EVERYONE for your offers of shocks and the measurements, PLEASE keep the input coming,

Earl

[pegscraper]

Well,,,,,,,there is this green bike coming to your garage pretty soon,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Bit kinda got the shivers when i read "CRASH TEST DUMMY"

 

Well Jonas, I don't know if you're aware of this, unfortunately for us, we do not have the same rear shock at all that the RSVs and later RSTDs have. They have an air shock in the back. Ours is standard. Not only that, but our operates in reverse of anything else on the planet. When our rear suspension "compresses", the shock actually stretches out. Whatever he comes up with won't work for us.

[Gamecock]

Thank you for addressing this problem on the RSV and RSTD! I look forward to hearing more about your engineering and trying out what you come up with! When mine fails, you can have it for experimentation!

 

Thanks again!

 

 

Ben

Edited February 25, 2010 by Gamecock

[Canuck]

If you build it they will come, well I know I will.

[Freebird]

Hey Don,

You have brought up a very interesting point about the different riding levels that the RSV shock can be adjusted to with the air ride feature. As I understand it, isn't option "B" which is the Works Shock a non air adjustable shock that is "sprung" to the rider, passenger and any extra weight that is commonly carried on the motorcycle?

If I have missed something here, please let me know. I am not nearly as swift on the Second Gens., as I am the First Gens. but am willing to try to figure this issue out with everyone's help on the VR.ORG site. All comments and Information are welcome here, I am in my "Learning phase" :detective:which will allow me to sort out what would be a better alternative shock for the Second Gen. RSV's and RSTD's.

Thanks again EVERYONE for your offers of shocks and the measurements, PLEASE keep the input coming,

Earl

 

You are correct. The Works is not air adjustable. It is adjustable manually to some extent but also they supposedly build each one specifically for the buyer. You tell them your weight, weight of passenger, etc. I guess if I were going to have to buy a new shock, I would probably go with the Works but I still think that a GOOD air shock would be a better solution. Just my opinion. I've never had a Works shock but I understand that adjusting it after it is installed is not an easy job.

[RossKean]

I will be most interested in seeing what you come up with!! Still on the original shock on a 2002 RSMV with 80,000 km; most (more than half) of which has been put on the bike in the last year and a half (previous owner didn't ride much). Given the age and mileage, I'm probably on borrowed time!

 

In reference to your Crash Test Dummies, I think the following link might be relevant!!

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ihUIPlLw2ZE]YouTube- Crash Test Dummies: Superman's Song[/ame]

 

 

Ross

Edited February 25, 2010 by RossKean

[erx1nascar]

I too will be most interested to see what comes of this and I agree with Don that air adjustability would be very convenient as I normally ride 2 up but sometimes pull a trailer and like to adjust mine especially if I ride alone. I am still on the original air shock on my 2002 RSV with 41000 miles but it is starting to go and i simply cant afford $700. to replace it. Good Luck! Looking forward to it!

[CaptainJoe]

Hummmm, I know this doesn't address Skydocs initial question but perhaps an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure?

If the problem is to little chrome on the main shaft of the shock(which would corrode easily), perhaps, lubricating it religiously would extend its life? Question is, can you physically SEE the shaft to lubricate it?

I do know, if any of you out there has a high pressure washer, you should be extreemely careful where you point it. Stay away from the brake pads in the calipers. The pistons that push the pads and pull back into the body of the calipers from a vacume that is created by releasing the brake, do not like having the lubricant being washed off the sides. They will start to corrode, and will rip the bejesus out of the orings, eventually causing failure. Yup you guessed it I use to blast the bejesus out of my bike every week. Now I use a Water hose.

 

Possible lubricant?

O-Ring Lubricant, 2 Ounce Bottle, Application For General Purpose

Grainger Item #1RGZ6 Price (ea.)$8.28BrandAPPROVED VENDOR Mfr. Model #1RGZ6 Ship Qty. http://images.grainger.com/B301_39/images/icon_help.gif1 Sell Qty. (Will-Call) http://images.grainger.com/B301_39/images/icon_help.gif1 Ship Weight (lbs.)0.17 Usually Ships** http://images.grainger.com/B301_39/images/icon_help.gifToday Catalog Page No.2855 http://images.grainger.com/B301_39/images/mini_catalog.gif Country of Origin

(Country of Origin is subject to change.)USA

http://images.grainger.com/B301_39/images/products/1RGZ6.JPG

http://images.grainger.com/B301_39/images/icon_enlargeimage.gif Enlarge Image

[RossKean]

People are talking about a OEM shock replacement cost on the order of $600-$700. South Seattle Yamaha lists it for $427 on their website. A reliable (or at least economically rebuildable) replacement shock would have to sell for less than the OEM price. $300-$350 would certainly get my interest.

 

Ross

[CaptainJoe]

Perhaps this would be better as it cleans and doesn't attract dust plus it's a spray can allowing you to get to hard to reach areas. Also not suppose to wipe this stuff off after spraying!

I'm going to get a can and add an entry to my periodic maintenance schedule.

 

AMSOIL Metal Protector (MP) and AMSOIL Heavy Duty Metal Protector (MPHD) are easy-to-use spray-on synthetic products that protect metal surfaces, displace water and silence squeaks. MP cuts through rust and corrosion to restore free movement of “frozen” hardware parts. MPHD lubricates metal surfaces, leaving a dry waxlike film. Neither forms gum or sludge.

AMSOIL MP is the product of choice for drying electrical and ignition systems and protecting electrical equipment from freshwater and saltwater damage. AMSOIL MP is also the product of choice for protecting firearms and other fine componentry. It contains no silicone. AMSOIL MP is compatible with plastic, leather, fabric, fishing line and paint.

AMSOIL MPHD is the product of choice for metal surfaces that require a heavy duty lubricant or are exposed to the damaging effects of salt, moisture or chemical corrosion. It is ideal for hinges, wire ropes and springs, nuts and bolts, motorcycle or bicycle chains, and for undercoating wheelwells and other metal surfaces exposed to water, dirt or road salt.

 

Performance Features

• Protects against rust & corrosion, even in salt water
  
• Displaces water
  
• Stops squeaks
  
• Lubricates metal surfaces
  
• Leaves a dry, long-lasting, waxlike film
  
• Lubricant does not attract dust
  
• Does not sling off
  
• Sprays into hard-to-reach places
  
• Ideal for chains & other heavy-use items
  

RECOMMENDATIONS

Spray product on area to be treated. For best results, do not wipe off. Film carrier will evaporate, leaving MPHD on treated surface.

[VentureProf]

I have a Works-Perf shock and it is difficult to adjust the spring pre-load since it involves changing the compression on the spring via a collar that you turn. I've done it with the bike on its center-stand (DiamondR) using lots of lubricant. But, it is so much of a pain to do that I just set it where it feels good for two-up touring and haven't touched it since (3 years).

 

I've always wondered how many failed shocks are due to the loss of air adjustability (seal/oil in the outer air chamber) versus the more serious failure of the actual shock absorber (the nitrogen-filled sealed shock chamber that provides the needed viscous damping of the sprung load). More people seem to have changed their shock because of shock moaning (loss of lubrication between the seal and moving surface of the preload chamber), loss of air preload, leaking of the air chamber oil, rather than because the rear-end started bouncing. Seems like the critical part for damping the bike's sprung load remains intact. Still, loss of pre-load adjustment is bad because this springiness of the air chamber adds to the total stiffness of the actual spring, and so you bottom out on bumps unless you are a real flyweight riding solo.

 

Kelly

[Monty]

Captainjoe...

 

If you spray a lubricant on the stem of the shock, then dirt and debris will stick to it, causing an even more premature seal failure.

 

 

Was a nice thought, though.

[Bummer]

Captainjoe,

 

Imagine two tin cans. One with the bottom cut out. The other with the top cut out. They fit one within the other with a rubber seal, making an enclosed but movable container. The actual shock is inside the container hooking the two halves together. When you add air you pressurize the container around the shock. There's some oil inside the container, outside of the shock. When you sit on the bike and the shock moans it's the seal between the two halves of the container making the noise.