HELP Trying to remove Broken Tap

[shadow]

Hello Everybody,

Shadow here. Can anyone tell me how I can remove or rather drill out a broken tap? It is in the foward rear fender bolt hole. Long story, but the head on the bolt striped when trying very carefully to remove it. So that entailed drilling out the bolt but, my bit did not come out center on the inside of the fender. So I took a tap and slowly with oil proceeded to tap new threads. Almost to the end and the tap breaks. I guess it's case hardened cause drilling it even with new cobalt bits seems futile. I've been at this for most of the day. I can't take the chrome fender rail off because the other bolt holding the fender won't turn. They have the red loctite on them. Funny thing the other side bolt came right out. I know heat would help with the loctite but how do you heat inside the fender without removing the rear wheel or hurting the paint. I just need to know if anyone knows, do they make a better or harder drill bit than the cobalt? I still think drilling the tap out is the best way I just need a drill bit that will cut it. I'm sure I'm not the first one of us to break a tap or easyout that had to be drilled. I appreciate all ideas.

[N3FOL]

Try using a 'Left Hand' drill of the same size. Give it a lot of initial force on the first try and hopefully that broken tap will move the other way. Good Luck.

[Bubber]

I have never done it but I had heard of using a stick welder to both heat and weld the rod on to the tap to remove it.

 

That is all the info I have on the subject sorry about you problems

 

Bubber

[dingy]

If you have a small set of needle nose pliers you may be able to grab inside the flutes of the tap and work it out.

 

Drilling will prove to be futile since the tap is probably as hard or harder than the drill.

 

Gary

[short-haul]

best way is a "WILTON TAP EXTRACTOR" it has fingers that slide into the flutes of the busted tap if you. if you cant find one near you and cant get it out I will ship you my set if you pay postage there and back

[Sling]

Shadow-- As you found out the taps are very brittle.

I have had success using an automatic center punch.

you might have to do it a couple of times. The tap will

break into little peices. Then you can pick them out:thumbsup2:

Hope this helps.

[skydoc_17]

http://www.venturerider.org/ProductImages/0501204-11.gifItem #: 05012166Mfr: WaltonMfr #: 10252Big Book Page 360View similar items Extractors - Taps Type: Tap Extractor Number of Flutes: 2

Order Qty of 1 = (1) Piecehttp://www.venturerider.org/images/blank.gifQty: Price: $14.23 eaIn stock: 75

http://www.venturerider.org/ProductImages/0501204-11.gifItem #: 05012166Mfr: WaltonMfr #: 10252Big Book Page 360View similar items Extractors - Taps Type: Tap Extractor Number of Flutes: 2

Order Qty of 1 = (1) Piecehttp://www.venturerider.org/images/blank.gifQty: Price: $14.23 eaIn stock: 75WaltonMfr #: 10252Big Book Page 360View similar items Extractors - Taps Type: Tap Extractor Number of Flutes: 2

Order Qty of 1 = (1) Piecehttp://www.venturerider.org/images/blank.gifQty: Price: $14.23 eaIn stock: 75

Hey Shadow,

Go to MSC.com and search Tap Extractor. I found one in the $15.00 rangs that will work.

Option #2 is to take a punch and a hammer and break it into little pieces. (as another member suggested) A tap is made from hardened tool steel and is WAY harder than any drill. If you could get this part in a milling machine you could use a solid carbide drill to drill it out, but in a hand drill, you can't control the feed (downward force) enough, and because a carbide drill is even harder than a tap, it will break right off.

Good luck, (it's a shame you don't live closer)

Earl

[MidlifeVenture]

Shadow-- As you found out the taps are very brittle.

I have had success using an automatic center punch.

you might have to do it a couple of times. The tap will

break into little peices. Then you can pick them out:thumbsup2:

Hope this helps.

 

Be very careful when it shatters it flies at high velocity I have a piece of one embedded in my little finger.

[Kirby]

I have to agree with all the recommendations that have been listed above.

Sometimes it is very difficult to remove a broken tap. It all depends on how it boke off. If it is a fairly flat break, you could get lucky by using a masonary bit made of carbide. The drawback to this is, in a hand drill it will be very difficult to deliver a steady feedrate without which the carbide will grab and break. If this happens then you have a piece of carbide that quite possibly will not be able to drill out. I have, on occasion, used this technique before successfully. Like I say, if all else fails, use this as a last resort. Best bet, try to get it to a drill press, milling machine, or a radial arm drill press. That way you'll have better control over the operation. Hope this helps. Good luck!! Also, If you know of someone who has access to an EDM machine you might could get them to burn it out.

[MidlifeVenture]

Heat like a hot air gun can help break the red Lock tight on the other bolts.

[YamaDuck]

Sounds like you have a lot of good advice. I usually take a punch and brake up the tap as it is very brittle. But to answer your question, yes there is a harder drill bit, it is a diamond drill and the are pretty expensive and you have to keep it pretty cool.

[wes0778]

Be very careful when it shatters it flies at high velocity I have a piece of one embedded in my little finger.

 

Yes, "Flying" metal pieces are attracted to skin far stronger than steel to a magnet!!!

 

Also WEAR safety Glasses or a full face shield!!!

[shadow]

WoW, So many fantastic ideas. Tom. I try the center punch idea first. If that don't work I'll get me an automatic punch. And if all that fails I'm gonna take short haul up on his offer on the extractor. I just got this bike a couple of weeks ago. Bought it from a Harley dealer in Fla. and had it shipped to N.C. Due to weather I've only ridden it about sixty miles one Sat. Morn. Found me a drivers backrest that uses the forward fender bolts as one of the mountings. I was so excited when it arrived today then the bolt head strips and the tap breaks. I was at a loss when the cobalt bits wouldn't cut it but I have renewed faith now.

 

Thanks Guys,

Dan Joyner:thumbsup2::thumbsup2:

[wes0778]

So that entailed drilling out the bolt but, my bit did not come out center on the inside of the fender.

 

I just re-read your original post;

Not to send more "Rain on your parade" but something to watch out for when you drill a bolt off center, this can leave part of the bolt in the hole which will move when the tap gets to it, forming a "lock" on the tap flute, which is probably why the tap stopped turning. Your extra pressure then broke it. When that left over piece of bolt turns into the flute area of the tap, there is no going in or out! If this is the case, the tap extractor will be useless.

Been there, done that and BURNED the tee shirt!!!

 

Good luck!!!

[Cougar]

That just happened to me as well while trying to remove my ignition

last week. of course the tap broke. I had to use the hit it and break it method and when I moved onto the next bolt I drilled it. now all is good. those darn things are so brittle. I was not a happy camper!

Jeff

[shadow]

Gee Whiz Wes, You are probably correct. There is a piece of the bolt still in there. I'm thinking if I can break the tap out I may have to just put a nut on the inside. I hate to do that but breaking another tap is not an option. Finding a bolt that matches is another problem. The one I drilled out was an inch and a half long and only a couple of mm's stuck through. I haven't seen a 1-3/4 so 2in" maybe be only option. What are ya'lls thoughts?

[shadow]

Well. I finally got it out. After Church went by Lowe's and bought an automatic punch. First I tried my air hammer with a punch on it. I put on goggles, long cuff leather gloves, and covered the tool with a heavy quilt. I wanted to protect myself from this thing when it exploded. So I hit the air hammer and hit it and hit it............ Nothing, I take the auto punch since the point on it is much sharper, I think maybe that will do it. I punch and punch and...... well you get the picture. So, now my safety from this thing has taken a back seat to getting the darn thing out. So a cold punch and a 3lb. hammer takes a shot. I beat and beat..... Well you get it, nothing. I can't remove the chrome fender rail because the rear fender bolt won't budge. BUT I can remove the other bolts in it and swing it up off of the saddle bag mount. I do that and I have to twist the mount back and forth but eventually it comes off and the broken tap is in it. I try to turn it and twist it but it and the rest of the bolt is still in there. I take the punch and hammer and well same results. I have these steel rods with #'s stamped on the heads I got in a box of tools at a yard sale. One was the perfect size and I put the mount over the open vise and drove that steel rod till it drove the tap and bolt out. Halli-lou-ya!!!! So any way that's what it took for me to remove a broke tap. I love the Driver's backrest and I'm sure I'll appreciate it more with all the effort to install it. Thanks to all of you for your ideas and concern. This is the best group of people you'll find.:thumbsup2:

Dan

[Cougar]

Way to go!

[Guest Ken8143]

YEAH! Don't you just love it when something finally works out!

[Kirby]

Yea, the best part about a bad situation is when it's over. Glad you got it out!!

[Squidley]

Shadow-- As you found out the taps are very brittle.

I have had success using an automatic center punch.

you might have to do it a couple of times. The tap will

break into little peices. Then you can pick them out:thumbsup2:

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

This is what I have done in the past, break it out with a small punch and hammer.

So much for not reading the whole thread DOH! glad you got it out