Disassembling Front Forks

[dingy]

What tools do I need to disassemble, then reassemble front fork tubes on MKII?

 

I know Yamaha has their 'special' tools.

 

Can it be done with long socket Extensions?

 

I want to break down a set of forks and replace seals.

 

Also, I am going to powder coat lower tubes.

 

Gary

[Carbon_One]

I helped Squidley rebuild a set 3-4 years ago using standard shop tools. Can't remember all the details but I'm sure someone will come along with that info soon.

Larry

[StuD]

A piece of (Ready-Rod) threaded rod & 4 15/16 nuts 2 on each end locked together, slide down top tube after removing fork springs. Using a 10mm Allen socket to remove bolt at bottom of lower leg (air gun helpful) as bolt has lock tight. I use 2" abs/pvc t-pipe with the pipe cut length wise to set the seals. :canada:

[dingy]

A piece of (Ready-Rod) threaded rod & 4 15/16 nuts 2 on each end locked together, slide down top tube after removing fork springs. Using a 10mm Allen socket to remove bolt at bottom of lower leg (air gun helpful) as bolt has lock tight. I use 2" abs/pvc t-pipe with the pipe cut length wise to set the seals. :canada:

 

What dia. is threaded rod?

 

15/16 is very odd size.

 

Are nuts 15/16" across flats?

 

Do they drop into a hex cutout in bottom of 'CYLINDER COMP., front fork'

 

Gary

[StuD]

The damping rod at the bottom of the fork has a 12 point indent that can be held in place (so that bolt at bottom of leg can be loosened) just so happens to be 15/16" nuts locked together. Flat to flat.

I think the threaded rod is 1/2" I cover threaded rod with garden hose so nothing gets scratched.

The rod is needed if you are NOT removing the forks from the tripeltree. If you remove the forks a 15/16" short bolt with nut locked on & a #of extentions will work as well. :canada:

[GeorgeS]

On home page, left side , scroll down to the Maint Library,

 

There is an extensive article there for doing the job.

[warthogcrewchief]

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44920

 

Not only are the parts listed, but the required items to make the tool needed to hold the inner compression cylinder - instead of using an air wrench and possibly screwing up the soft threads of the aluminum fork housing or overtorquing the crush washer (which could cause leaking). If it's stuck, and you have no other method, use the air wrench.

 

However, I think the best possible way to do this is make the tool (costs less than $10) to hold the cylinder in place and then use a breaker bar to get the lower bolt off, and then the tool will help you obtain the correct torque value for the bolt.

[warthogcrewchief]

If you need any of the smaller parts, I have an extra set of forks in my storage area. I think the only bad part may be one of the inner fork slides as it was scratched up pretty bad from a burr on the inside of the washer that sits just below the oil seal. Everything else, to my knowledge, is in good condition. One may be able to use some fine emery cloth and clean it up.

 

I also have an extra set of the spacers that fit between the bottom of the top clamps and the top of the CLASS manifold.

 

PM or email me and we can work out a price.

[Freebird]

Gary,

I have one of the tools here in my garage. You are welcome to borrow it. It is a home made one that was given to me by Muffin Man a few years ago.

[MiCarl]

Gary,

I have one of the tools here in my garage. You are welcome to borrow it. It is a home made one that was given to me by Muffin Man a few years ago.

 

Gary, the tool is made of 5/8" rod. I can measure mine at the shop today if you like. As mentioned you can use a short 1/2" bolt with a couple nuts jammed onto it and some extensions to hold the damper.

 

When you disassemble you essentially use the outer fork tube as a slide hammer to pull the bushings out. You want to make sure to not hammer closed because there are delicate parts at the bottom.

 

Those delicate parts are part of the oil lock assembly. You need to pay close attention to how the spring washers go back on.

 

I hope you're not trying to do the forks from the 88 I sold you. They're bent.

Edited February 9, 2010 by MiCarl
Corrected rod diameter

[dingy]

 

I hope you're not trying to do the forks from the 88 I sold you. They're bent.

 

 

No, I have another set coming off of an 1987.

 

I now have everything I need to put quad caliper pistons from a MKII on my scooter, both ends.

 

I pity the fool that ends up with this bike in the distant future. Its going to have more parts & pieces that are not from 1983 than are from 1983.

 

It's even going to have RSV, FJR, & VMax parts.

 

Gary

Edited February 8, 2010 by dingy

[dingy]

If someone refers to this thread in future (which would be present for them) the threaded rod is 5/8-10 and you need a 36" long piece. Went to Lowes and got it tonight along with 4 nuts and a piece of 5/8" ID clear pvc tubing. Cost about $6.50 total.

 

Thanks StuD

 

 

Gary

The damping rod at the bottom of the fork has a 12 point indent that can be held in place (so that bolt at bottom of leg can be loosened) just so happens to be 15/16" nuts locked together. Flat to flat.

I think the threaded rod is 1/2" I cover threaded rod with garden hose so nothing gets scratched.

The rod is needed if you are NOT removing the forks from the tripeltree. If you remove the forks a 15/16" short bolt with nut locked on & a #of extentions will work as well. :canada: