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Posted

Hello, I'm getting my 1985 VR 1200 up and I'm haveing some problems.

 

I started with charging my old battery, I Put it back in and the battery light came on and the main fuse went when I went to start it, I replaced the fuse and tryed again. The battery is old so I went and got a new one and some fresh gas, charged the new battery put it in and the bike with the fresh gas, It will turn over faster now but dose not even try to start up, The battery light still comes on also. The bike worked fine when I put it away for for the winter.

 

Anyone know what I can do?

 

Thanks,

BMattie

Posted
Hello, I'm getting my 1985 VR 1200 up and I'm haveing some problems.

 

I started with charging my old battery, I Put it back in and the battery light came on and the main fuse went when I went to start it, I replaced the fuse and tryed again. The battery is old so I went and got a new one and some fresh gas, charged the new battery put it in and the bike with the fresh gas, It will turn over faster now but dose not even try to start up, The battery light still comes on also. The bike worked fine when I put it away for for the winter.

 

Anyone know what I can do?

 

Thanks,

BMattie

 

I don't know a lot about this model but if you can get to the carbs, see if there's gas in the bowls by loosening the drain screws. There may also be condensation built up in the bowls to the carbs. If so, drain it all out.

Posted

The battery light only indicates that the acid in battery is low. There is a sensor that goes into one of the wholes on top of battery. :canada::canada::canada:

Posted

Check the Fuel tank Vent hose. remove the hose at tank under seat. There is a Very small hole, be sure its open.

 

I would also suggest Completly Draining the Fuel tank, and each of the 4 Carb bowls.

Each Bowl, has a seperate Drain Valve. Opens with a Screwdriver. Note each carb has a small drain hose.

 

To drain the tank, remove the hose at the petcock, be sure to use the " reserve " position of the petcock to completly drain the tank.

 

 

You might need to remove the Ignition Control Unit, from under the battery box, then open the computer box, and Dry out the Moisture in the box. ( They all have Moisture inside the Ignition unit. )

 

Also, check the Fuse Holders for makeing tight connection to the fuse itself, The prongs that hold the fuses are made of " brittle material " come loose, and do not make good contact.

 

Also, Use, " Electrical Contact Cleaner " on the " Run- Stop " Switch. These switches get corroded, and turn to high resistance contacts. This will cause LOW voltage, to the Ignition Unnit.

 

Also, remove the TWO plugs from the Ignition Unit, and clean contact with electrical contact cleaner.

 

Also, there is a five wire cable from Ignition unit running down to the pick up coils under left crank case cover, About half way, enroute, is a pull apart plug. Carefull inspect and clean the contacts in this plug, ( If bad contacts here, NO IGNITION TO Plugs )

 

That should get you started !!! good luck

Posted

Do you need a certain tool for the plugs, Non of the sockets I have seam to fit the plugs on my bike. Even the plug socket that we use for our articcats dose not fit.

 

Thanks,

Posted
Do you need a certain tool for the plugs, Non of the sockets I have seam to fit the plugs on my bike. Even the plug socket that we use for our articcats dose not fit.

 

Thanks,

 

 

In the original tool kit, supplied with the bike when new, there's a spark plug tool that works just fine. Some of the guys use a thin wall 15mm or 18mm socket??, but I've never been able to find one. If you didn't get the OEM kit there are 2ndGen tool kits available on Ebay. I've picked up a couple pretty cheap. The plug socket will fit all years of the Venture 1st and 2nd... The 2ndGen kit doesn't come with a lot of the tools that were supplied with the 1stGen, but it makes a good basic kit to build on.

Posted
Do you need a certain tool for the plugs, Non of the sockets I have seam to fit the plugs on my bike. Even the plug socket that we use for our articcats dose not fit.

 

Thanks,

 

 

I have always used just a deepwell 18mm to get the plugs out. There is a trick you can do, take a small diameter piece of vac tubing and slide it over the small electrode end of the spark plug and twist it out that way, or a bit larger tube to fit snugly over the porcelin of the plug. After you break it loose it will usually spin right out.

Posted

I have always used just a deepwell 18mm to get the plugs out. There is a trick you can do, take a small diameter piece of vac tubing and slide it over the small electrode end of the spark plug and twist it out that way, or a bit larger tube to fit snugly over the porcelin of the plug. After you break it loose it will usually spin right out.

 

 

I seem to recall my plugs on my 84 wear 18mm also, I got the deep-well socket at NAPA and once loos I just used an old straight plug wire off a cage to remove and install.

:7_6_3[1]:

Posted

My bike uses a "THIN WALL" deep socket 15mm. None of my sockets worked either. I had to go to a motorcycle shop and purchase an aftermarket spark plug socket. I just found one online this evening that is nice. My sparkplug socket isn't a 3/8" drive...

 

http://www.handsontools.com/Motion-Pro-08-0175-Spark-Plug-Socket-18mm_p_53897.html

 

 

I've never seen plugs go bad after just one season of sitting. In fact, after I purchased my bike -which had been sitting for YEARS- I was able to start it with the same plugs it had in it after replacing the battery and cleaning out the carbs. Although, I did change the plugs shortly thereafter.

 

Ensure you have a good battery with the correct level of acid (you can use distilled water to refill) and ensure it is properly charged. However, if the lead plates have been exposed to air (fluid level dropped), then the battery's ability to hold a charge will be diminished.

 

Take the carbs off, open them up and clean the crap out of them (only one at a time so parts don't get mixed up). When cleaning out passages and jets - DO NOT USE METAL TOOLS!! It will change the open the jet holes up and that is not good. I use carb cleaner (pick your favorite) and fishing line (using it like floss) to clean the inside walls of the jets.

 

Reassemble and try to start again.

Posted

I got some new spark plugs and a 18mm deep socket today, The deep socket works great.

The old spark plugs are NGK "DPR8EA" The new ones are NGK "DPR7EA"

both have a 9 under the code

 

Off by one number will these ones work?

 

Thanks a lot for everyones input it is much appreciated.

Posted

The spark plug heat range has no relationship to the electrical energy transferred through the spark plug. The heat range of a spark plug is the range in which the plug works well thermally. The heat rating of each NGK spark plug is indicated by a number; lower numbers indicate a hotter type, higher numbers indicate a colder type.

Heat rating and heat flow path of NGK Spark Plugs

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/image/chartheatratingflowpath-2.gif

It is hard to say if the plugs you have will do anything abnormal to your bike. But according to this you have hotter plugs than what are recommended.:2cents::D

Posted
The old spark plugs are NGK "DPR8EA" The new ones are NGK "DPR7EA" both have a 9 under the code

 

Off by one number will these ones work?

A hotter plug will often work better with a less than perfect ignition system also better in colder temps. In very hot summer temps the hotter plug may cause pre-ignition. I've been running a 1 up hotter plug with no problems in my Virago for years because it is the only one available around here without a resistor.
Posted
Hello, I'm getting my 1985 VR 1200 up and I'm haveing some problems.

 

I started with charging my old battery, I Put it back in and the battery light came on and the main fuse went when I went to start it, I replaced the fuse and tryed again. The battery is old so I went and got a new one and some fresh gas, charged the new battery put it in and the bike with the fresh gas, It will turn over faster now but dose not even try to start up, The battery light still comes on also. The bike worked fine when I put it away for for the winter.

 

Anyone know what I can do?

 

Thanks,

BMattie

 

 

I know I don't offer much technical or mechanical info here but I think I can help here:

 

All you have to do is find someone with a 2nd Gen and get a boost.

 

:rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl:

 

 

Sorry, couldn't resist.

 

Greg

  • 2 years later...
Posted

i now it is a bit late to reply on this post, but i did it whit a 18mm socket.

the thing is, the outher diam. is to big, so i took it to work and schaved of 2/10 mm on a special work bench. (can find the exact name)

 

works fine for mi.

 

Ice

Posted
I know I don't offer much technical or mechanical info here but I think I can help here:

 

All you have to do is find someone with a 2nd Gen and get a boost.

 

:rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl:

 

 

Sorry, couldn't resist.

 

Greg

 

If you can spare the time needed for it to get to you!

 

:rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf:

Posted
A hotter plug will often work better with a less than perfect ignition system also better in colder temps. In very hot summer temps the hotter plug may cause pre-ignition. I've been running a 1 up hotter plug with no problems in my Virago for years because it is the only one available around here without a resistor.

 

Clive, it is also better, for constantly doing short trips as well. Like when I was in Wainwright, or riding out for coffee in Mill Bay.

 

No problems with pre-ignition, on last years 10,000 mile trip (including travelling in the heat wave).

 

:2cents:

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