Parts required for Fork Seal replacement?

[PEIslander]

Planning to replace the fork seals in my 84 and not sure what parts to order. I will need the oil seal 26H-23145-00-00 and the dust seal 26H-23144-00-00, Is there any other parts to consider replacing?

 

 

Thanks

[MiCarl]

Not a bad idea to replace the o-ring on the cap.

 

You may get them open and find that you need bushings. I generally recommend to my customers that they do bushings when they do seals. However, if you can afford to leave it torn apart for a couple of weeks while waiting for bushings you can wait and inspect them when you disassemble.

[KarlS]

Look in First Gen Tech Library under Front Fork Seal Replacement. You should change front springs to progressive Front springs also. I made the tool with the threaded rod and nuts and it worked great. It does make it easier to seat seals if you loosen the pinch bolts and pull the fork tubes.

[PEIslander]

Is there a way to measure the bushings for wear or is it best to just replace them?

 

I already have progressives in and what a difference they made to the bike. My original springs were way shot, bottomed out on any bump.

 

I will have the fairing off as they will be getting a new coat of paint so the fork tubes should be easily accessable for this job.

 

I found the tech article Freebird made up and plan to follow it as best I can.

 

Thanks for the tips.

[warthogcrewchief]

When I did my fork rebuild (twice...Don't buy seals from Pyramid!), I purchased the two (one upper and one lower) bushings for each fork. I also purchased the crush seal for the lower magnetic plug/bolt.

 

Also, you'll need a tool to hold the inner piston. It cost me less than $10 to make and worked great. Get two, two foot 1/2 inch steel (or iron) pipe sections (threaded on each end). The first one leave alone, and the second you'll need to have cut in half. I got mine at Ace Hardware and they cut it for no charge. Purchase a 1/2" "T" that fits the threads. When assembled, it forms a large "T". Purchase a bolt that has a head of 24 mm or 15/16". Screw that bolt into the long end and WELD it. I tried using JB weld and the torque I applied to it broke the JB weld.

 

You'll need a 17mm allen key tool (socket would be better than the allen key, but I used an allen key) to remove the top threaded cap. Be sure to wear safety glasses and mechanics gloves when removing the cap so that you can protect your hands and maintain positive control of the spring loaded cap!

 

In the provided link, is a list of the parts that usually come in a "Fork Rebuild Kit", which is EVERYTHING that wears out. I only needed the oil seal, the dust seal, the two bushings and the crush washers.

 

When it comes time to re-assemble the forks and install the oil seals; I used some plastic (I used the thin plastic used to make gallon jugs of milk). The plastic was used to protect the seals from the cir-clip groove at the top of the fork. I used a 1-1/2" PVC pipe to "lightly tamp" the oil seal into position. It works perfect.

 

 

 

"Fork Rebuilding for Dummies"

Edited February 2, 2010 by warthogcrewchief

[warthogcrewchief]

If you need any of the smaller parts, I have an extra set of forks in my storage area. I think the only bad part may be one of the inner fork slides as it was scratched up pretty bad from a burr on the inside of the washer that sits just below the oil seal. Everything else, to my knowledge, is in good condition. One may be able to use some fine emery cloth and clean it up.

 

I also have an extra set of the spacers that fit between the bottom of the top clamps and the top of the CLASS manifold.

 

PM or email me and we can work out a price.

[Dakota]

If you haven't finished your forks yet, I would pull them apart and inspect the bushings. If they look worn or damaged, then make sure you replace them. I just finished doing my in the MMPE class I'm taking. I had to do a job sheet on them and what I said above is what the instructor told me. Mine were still in good shape, so I saved a few bucks. But if you have any doubts, replace them.

[PEIslander]

That's my plan, I have time to take everything apart and then decide on whether the bushings are worn enough to replace. I have a set of good calipers and should be able to measure them.

I plan to buy the Yamaha seals as there seems to lots of complaints on the aftermarket ones. I only want to do this once.

 

[warthogcrewchief]

I've heard that using fork boots have helped to protect fork seals much longer than without. Someone said they have used Rancho shock boots for fork boots with no problems. I just ordered a set for myself, and will be pulling my forks off again to install them.

 

I saw them on Amazon for $3.00 a piece and they make them in 5 colors. Good price for a little insurance.