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Posted (edited)

The sensor reads the teeth on the pinion gear. The driveshaft doesn't have anything to do with it. Just make sure when you machine the sensor mounting boss down that you get the spacing from that surface to the pinion gear exactly the same as the stock differential.

 

The gears don't have to be removed to do this, so you don't have to worry about playing with backlash at all. Just remove the back cover and flush the shavings out of thing out real well with some kerosene when you're finished. Put it back together and install it and fill it up with oil.

 

I did one just like this a few years ago. I picked up a VMX differential and had a buddy of mine machine the thing for me. It worked out fine, and there are probably at least 40,000 miles on the thing by now. Then I sold off my stock one (to Squid actually) for only about $5 less than what I paid for the VMX one. I had a grand total of $5 in my swap.

 

As a side note, this differential will just barely fit into a USPS flat rate box and can be shipped anywhere in the 48 for less than $10. Very effective use of a flat rate box.

Edited by pegscraper
Posted

Hey Lynn,

Thanks for that very useful bit of information about the sensor and the ring gear. I was freaking out a bit over some kind of magnet on the ring gear. Does this swap increase or decrease the speedo error on the Second Gens. because of the number of teeth on the ring gear? :confused24:

Earl

Posted

Oddly, it does not change the speedometer. The number of teeth on the ring gear is the same; it is the pinion gear that is different - RSV 10/33 - VMX 9/33. While the sensor reads the teeth on the pinion gear, what it is really counting is the teeth on the ring gear. Think of the pinion gear as an idler between the ring gear and the sensor. For every tooth that goes by the ring gear, one tooth will go by the sensor. It doesn't matter how many teeth are on the pinion gear.

 

You'll want to bore the hole through first so you can see the pinion gear so you can tell how far down to machine the flat spot on the boss and set the sensor spacing correctly. If you know your way around a mill and have a way to bore holes, i.e. a CNC machine or a boring bar, this is really a pretty simple operation. The most difficult part of this is figuring out how to clamp this thing down to the table and then locating the holes to begin with. But even that's not bad. Any other questions about what you're looking at, just ask.

 

I tried to get my buddy who did mine interested in doing this on the side for other people here, but he declined. I have a mill now and can almost do it myself, but I don't have a boring bar yet. So you may have at it.

Posted

When my Convertion was done, all they did was mount and set the original sensor at 8 thousands from the ring on the drive shaft. works perfect.

  • 8 months later...
Posted

I may have missed it while I was reading, but is there a relevant conversion that would apply to a 1st Gen Venture? If my memory serves me (at my age sometimes it does...sometimes not) it seems to me that there is a mention of a shim somewhere in the process. Please enlighten me! Thanks

Posted
I may have missed it while I was reading, but is there a relevant conversion that would apply to a 1st Gen Venture? If my memory serves me (at my age sometimes it does...sometimes not) it seems to me that there is a mention of a shim somewhere in the process. Please enlighten me! Thanks

 

 

Sky_Doc 17 has the shim listed in classifieds.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2718&title=vmax-final-drive-shim-21&cat=22

 

I think it needs to be .027" thick. (+/- a smidge)

 

I made one out of high strength gasket material I had lying around. It is the same bolt pattern & profile as the rear swing arm.

 

Gary

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