warthogcrewchief Posted January 29, 2010 #26 Posted January 29, 2010 My bad, I failed to see what year his bike was.... I also didn't know that the MK1's couldn't use the R1 calipers.
trankenator Posted February 5, 2010 Author #27 Posted February 5, 2010 So I'm in the middle of this repair and after opening it up and getting it all exposed sure enough one of the pins was missing. After putting in the new parts I tried to see if it could now shift in 4th gear with no problem but It still wouldn't shift all the way in. It almost got all the way in though. It also wouldn't down shift all the way to 1st. after a little messing around with it and trying to get it to shift. It got to the point where it would only shift fully into 3rd is this normal when it's all apart or is something seriously wrong? I'm getting pretty nervous that I was completely screwed on buying this bike. I'm not sure if I just need to put it back together for it to start working again. Or did I do something to somehow ruin it even more?
mraf Posted February 5, 2010 #28 Posted February 5, 2010 Is your linkage installed correctly? You say you couldn't run it through the gears because it was snowing when you picked it up. Maybe the previous owner removed the linkage to begin to fix the problem of a missing pin. But quit to sell the bike. Therefore when installing the linkage he put it back on incorrectly. Causing it to bind linkage wise before shifting into the higher gears. Study the pics in the manual for proper installation.
MiCarl Posted February 5, 2010 #29 Posted February 5, 2010 It won't shift into a gear unless the dogs on the gears are lined up. When the engine is running that alignment happens quite easily, but with things not turning they might not ever line up. Put it up on the center stand (hopefully the oil is drained!) and turn the rear wheel while shifting. That should help things line up so it drops into gear.
trankenator Posted February 5, 2010 Author #30 Posted February 5, 2010 It looks good and normal and when looking at the star washer when trying to shift i can't see it getting caught on anything. I'm really at a loss hear. It shifted completely fine up until the missing pin but now it doesn't and all i did was put in the missing pin.
trankenator Posted February 5, 2010 Author #31 Posted February 5, 2010 I tried spinning the wheel that is actually when it got worse. It's pretty strange
MiCarl Posted February 5, 2010 #32 Posted February 5, 2010 I still think it's probably just the dogs not lining up. If the clutch isn't in there might not be enough drag to let the gears shift around. Have your helper hold the input shaft while you turn the rear wheel and shift at the same time.
trankenator Posted February 5, 2010 Author #33 Posted February 5, 2010 I'm starting to think that is the only thing it could be. I'll have to get someone to help me. I just want to make sure it works before I put it all back together. I've got a ride planned for the end of the month. I really hope I can get all of this sorted in time
trankenator Posted February 5, 2010 Author #34 Posted February 5, 2010 now I know I am going to sound like the dumbest person in the world. After putting it all back together the clutch doesn't work now. When I pull in the clutch it feels exactly like what the hand break feels like. when it's started and I put it in gear it doesn't do anything. With out the clutch pulled in at all the tire still doesn't spin. It's like the clutch is always engaged. I was pretty careful on making sure I put it all back together the exact same way I took it apart. The only thing I can think of was when everything was taken out I pulled in the clutch and i think I remember it getting stiff when I did that
Condor Posted February 5, 2010 #35 Posted February 5, 2010 now I know I am going to sound like the dumbest person in the world. After putting it all back together the clutch doesn't work now. When I pull in the clutch it feels exactly like what the hand break feels like. when it's started and I put it in gear it doesn't do anything. With out the clutch pulled in at all the tire still doesn't spin. It's like the clutch is always engaged. I was pretty careful on making sure I put it all back together the exact same way I took it apart. The only thing I can think of was when everything was taken out I pulled in the clutch and i think I remember it getting stiff when I did that Did you remove the push rods and ball while you were in there. If you did you might have reinstalled them wrong. On the rods there's a small flat spot on one end. It goes against the ball. Otherwise the rods will bind when pressure is applied. You might also have assembled the basket nut out of sequence. Don't ask me how I know that...
trankenator Posted February 5, 2010 Author #36 Posted February 5, 2010 Yeah I'm sure I put the push rod back in the right way and I want to say I put the nut back in the right place. The clutch was stiff like the hand break before I put it all back together. Would I just need to bleed it to relieve some pressure? Honestly I really have no idea how the clutch even works so I'm pretty lost when it comes to all of this
Squeeze Posted February 5, 2010 #37 Posted February 5, 2010 Sounds like you lost the Ball between the long Rod and the short mushroom shaped Rod which needs to come out before the Clutch Nut. It's a 11/32" Ball from a Ball Bearing.
trankenator Posted February 5, 2010 Author #38 Posted February 5, 2010 When I was taking it apart I pulled the first push rod out but a ball never came out. I thought that part was strange cause I was reading the service manual as I was taking it out and it said to remove the ball and other push rod but I could only get one push rod out. Apparently my mechanical skills are pretty sad. I've been struggling with this project since day one.
Squeeze Posted February 5, 2010 #39 Posted February 5, 2010 Undo the Clutch Cover, undo the Clutch Pressure Plate (six Bolts M6, 10mm Head) and place a piece of Wood on the End of the short Rod and give the Wood a whack with a Hammer. If you didn't loose the Ball, you might accidently pulled the Clutch Lever while the Pressure Plate was off and now the Clutch Slave is stuck in most extended Position. Once the Rod is loose you can push it back with your Hand.
trankenator Posted February 5, 2010 Author #40 Posted February 5, 2010 I did accidently pull the clutch in out of habit when it was all apart. That sounds like that has to be my problem. I'll try that tonight
trankenator Posted February 6, 2010 Author #41 Posted February 6, 2010 Ok so the ball is still in there after whacking at it for a while it hasn't moved at all. Now I'm not sure what to try now.
dingy Posted February 6, 2010 #42 Posted February 6, 2010 Below is a cut from the parts fiche showing the orientation of the components. See if parts are in correct order. Gary
mrich12000 Posted February 6, 2010 #43 Posted February 6, 2010 I come to think we are working on fine vintage sports bikes . So what happened? did ya drop the balls. Great post I'm learning so much about the second gear replacement..
trankenator Posted February 6, 2010 Author #44 Posted February 6, 2010 Alright so after opening the bleeding valve and releasing the pressure I could then move the pin in and out so I put it back together and bled the clutch but afterwards it did the same thing. The clutch still acts like a front breake again except after letting it sit for a while I can squeeze the clutch in all the way but it just builds pressure again just like a break. I'm so confused
Dano Posted February 6, 2010 #45 Posted February 6, 2010 Perhaps it is a plugged hole in the master cylinder? Not letting the pressure drain back to the reservoir? Just throwin' that out there.
trankenator Posted February 6, 2010 Author #46 Posted February 6, 2010 I recently just cleaned it all out and replaced the fluid and it worked completely fine before I took it apart. I hate to say it but something I did caused this problem but I can't figure out what I did to make it do this. I have no clue what to do now
Squeeze Posted February 6, 2010 #47 Posted February 6, 2010 OK, so you got the short Rod pushed back in after opening the Bleeder. Then you pulled the Clutch Lever again and the same mechanical Lock-up occured. I assume you mounted the Clutch Pressure Plate before pulling the Lever again ? If so, there are two Possibilties, first would be the Lever or the Piston inside the Master is not returining to the outermost Point and therefore not opening the Relief Hole. Second would be the Relief Hole on the Bottom of the Clutch Master is clogged and/or the Seal inside Master is defective and clogging up the Relief Hole. I'd make sure the Clutch Pressure Plate is mounted properly, then carefully opening the Lid on the Master and take a Look at the two Holes on the Bottom. You should see the Seal wandering through both Holes when slowly pulling the Lever and changing the Color again when releasing the Lever. I you use a a Light, you should see the Seal move through both Holes. If not, there's something wrong either at the Connection between Lever and Piston or inside the Master.
Condor Posted February 6, 2010 #48 Posted February 6, 2010 (edited) Just for the heck of it, take the clutch presure plate off and try the lever again with finger pressure on the rod tip. If the rod moves in and out freely your problem isn't with the master or slave. If the lever is still stiff then the problem is in the master/slave hydralics. Also just for the heck of it, while you have the plate off, take one of those pencil thin 'lost nut retreaver' magnets. Kinda looks like an antenna with a small gimbled magnet on the end. They have them at auto supply stores. With this you can remove the rods and ball without having to push them through from the slave side. The rods and ball are steel and the surrounding block is aluminum, so it will work. Examine the rods and ball for any damage. Nicks, burrs, bent.... Any damage, replace them or they will bind. If they're OK then put them back in, but before sticking them in, inspect the rod tips. One tip will have a slightly flattened surface. This tip goes against the ball. Both rods have one flattened end. Assuming the hydralics are OK, double check the positioning of notches on the discs and plates are all alligned, and then replace the pressure plate making sure it's installed in the correct position. It only fits on one way. Keep rotating it untill the plate settles down on the disc pack. I'm suspecting that you have the pressure plate installed in the wrong position. If there isn't any return pressure on the slave the fluid will build up pressure and not let the excess fluid return to the reserve. Anyway check all these things out and I bet your clutch will be working again.... Here's a couple picks that may help. It's a barnet clutch plate but it fits the same way. Align the notches http://www.cast-aways.com/CLUTCHPICS/yamahaclutch15.jpg Clutch plate sitting too high. See the gap... http://www.cast-aways.com/CLUTCHPICS/YAMAHACLUTCH11.JPG Clutch plate installed correctly http://www.cast-aways.com/CLUTCHPICS/YAMAHACLUTCH12.JPG Edited February 6, 2010 by Condor
Dano Posted February 6, 2010 #49 Posted February 6, 2010 That sure is a purty purple to be hidden in there, Jack!
Condor Posted February 7, 2010 #50 Posted February 7, 2010 That sure is a purty purple to be hidden in there, Jack! Yeah, that's what I kinda thought too.....
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