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Posted

I recently bought a 1983 venture and when I test drove it it was pretty snowy so I never had a good chance to run through all of the gears. Later on I found that It wouldn't shift into 4th or 5th gear. It's like they just aren't there. It's my first bike so I am pretty new to this. I'm hoping to have it up and running for spring time. Anyone ever have this problem?

I appreciate any help

Trent

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Posted
The linkage looks good. I read somewhere about a star washer but it was pretty vague. I'm not really sure what that is.

Did you check the linkage behind the stator cover as well?

Posted

I assume it goes to 3rd, then when you shift it stays in 3rd?

 

If so it may be that it's dropped a dowel pin from the end of the shift drum. There have been posts about that happening. When that happens there is nothing for the shifting pawl to grab so it doesn't turn the drum. I've never been in one, but the parts fiche shows a star shaped plate that is probably there to hold the dowels in place.

 

If it shifts to neutral then you have bigger issues.

Posted

Yeah when I go to shift into 4th nothing happens it just stays in 3rd gear. I've been trying to find similar posts but have been trouble finding a good description of how to fix it. Could you point me in the right direction on a good descriptive post? I might just be searching wrong but I haven't had any luck. Thanks again for your help

Posted

That would be the correct post Don, now all he needs is the parts listed, a warm snow free garage and a couple of hours and he's good to go!

 

Just remember Trankenator, there is a full service manual available for download in the first gen tech section also. That will describe how to remove the right side cover, the clutch and drum to be able to access the shift drum.

 

Oh, BTW, you'll need to make up one of these to hold the clutch drum to loosen the crank bolt, some have had luck with a good impact gun to get it loose.

Posted

 

Oh, BTW, you'll need to make up one of these to hold the clutch drum to loosen the crank bolt, some have had luck with a good impact gun to get it loose.

 

ROFL ... that looks almost as bad as the one I made ... at least from looking at yours it probably took you about 1/8th the amount of time to build it!

Posted

Here are a few more pictures.

 

These are from an 83 engine. I think some of the previous pictures in this thread may be from RSV's.

 

These pictures are with the clutch cover off, and then wiyh the clutch basket removed.

 

Also there is a PDF attached showing the parts of an 83 transmission.

 

Also below is a thread to the procedure to fix 2nd gear, which will point you in the direction you may need to go if it is an internal problem.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=508

 

Gary

Posted

On ebay, search on these item #'s.

 

160398990829

160398990869

 

400099948146

It is the shifter drum, forks & linkage out of an 84.

 

Also look at other items by this seller.

 

He has stripped the engine all the way down.

 

You may be able to use some of these parts.

 

Gary

Posted

Gary, you sure have a picture of everything!

 

The last picture gives a pretty clear look at those six dowels. Not a huge job to get in there.

 

If you've spit one I wouldn't use used parts. This is a problem that pops up and no use using parts that are about ready to fail.

 

Clutch basket holder isn't necessary. Shift to 5th gear (or the highest you can) and get your assistant to apply the rear brake. That'll hold the basket for you.

 

**EDIT**

Just looked at the link Freebird provided. I'd put the assembly from a 2nd gen in there if I was fixing it. That's a no brainer.

Posted

You are better off getting the upgrade part numbers as listed by Pegscraper (in the link provided by Don), if you keep putting the same parts back in,(IE the cover with the bend-over tabs), you will continue to have problems every couple of years down the road. I had this happen to me 125 miles from home one day and the stator went out at the same time. NOT a fun ride home, but she got me there!

 

BTW, how many miles are on the bike, do you know if the "second gear" issue has been fixed? (actually it's the thrust and wear washer on the end of the middle gear shaft that causes the problem, second gear is the symptom) Once you get it running, get on the throttle in 2nd gear, if it jumps, you're due for the repair. Not for the faint of heart, but can be done by someone with mechanical training and not afraid to pull the motor out of the bike.

 

Good luck, and we'll help you all we can!

 

Dan

Posted

Hey thank you everyone! You guys have been amazingly helpful. I'm going to start work on it tomorrow. It's 42000 miles on it and the second gear seems pretty strong! Hopefully it stays that way. I just picked up my caliper rebuild kit today so I'm going to put that all together tomorrow as well. After all that it should be ready for a good ride!

 

Thanks again I am very very thankful

Posted

Looks like you're going on the right direction. Although, something to think about: I thought about rebuilding my calipers before I saw the rebuilt R1 Calipers SkyDoc sells on here. I'm looking to get the R1 calipers for my '89 because the housing is one piece instead of two pieces bolted together (less give = better braking ability).

Posted
Looks like you're going on the right direction. Although, something to think about: I thought about rebuilding my calipers before I saw the rebuilt R1 Calipers SkyDoc sells on here. I'm looking to get the R1 calipers for my '89 because the housing is one piece instead of two pieces bolted together (less give = better braking ability).

 

 

Not quite as simple as replacing the calipers on the MKI's (83-85)

 

We have to replace forks, rotors & calipers.

 

The R1 calipers have a 100mm bolt pattern at fork mounting point. The originals have an 80mm bolt pattern.

 

Rotors are different diameter as well.

 

Gary

Posted
Not quite as simple as replacing the calipers on the MKI's (83-85)

 

We have to replace forks, rotors & calipers.

 

The R1 calipers have a 100mm bolt pattern at fork mounting point. The originals have an 80mm bolt pattern.

 

Rotors are different diameter as well.

 

Gary

 

Not on the MKII's Gary. The R1's are plug and play.... :)

Posted
I didn't mention MKII's

 

:think:

 

OP has an 83, MKI.

 

Gary

 

I donno?? I was just going by the quote you attached to your post from warthogcrewchief. He has an '89, and was the one mentioning the R1's from Earl... Sorry for the misunderstanding....

Posted
Not quite as simple as replacing the calipers on the MKI's (83-85)

 

We have to replace forks, rotors & calipers.

 

The R1 calipers have a 100mm bolt pattern at fork mounting point. The originals have an 80mm bolt pattern.

 

Rotors are different diameter as well.

 

Gary

:stirthepot:

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