SilvrT Posted January 18, 2010 #1 Posted January 18, 2010 So far I'm really enjoying having the lift adapter; however, I found that even with it, I had to jack the bike up higher in order to remove the rear wheel. Is this the "norm" or am I missing something? If it's the norm, perhaps Carbon One should make the legs longer...???
jburrell Posted January 18, 2010 #2 Posted January 18, 2010 To remove the rear wheel you do have to jack the bike up really high. I am sure that the idea of the carbon one adapter with legs was to have the bike in a stable working height for most work on the bike. It is very seldom you will want the bike at the height that you need for removing the rear wheel. Its a great product and I really like mine even without the legs. Where else can you find something that can get you bike off the ground and be very stable for that price. Be sure to grease your hub/splines while you have that rear wheel off. MY
SilvrT Posted January 18, 2010 Author #3 Posted January 18, 2010 To remove the rear wheel you do have to jack the bike up really high. I am sure that the idea of the carbon one adapter with legs was to have the bike in a stable working height for most work on the bike. It is very seldom you will want the bike at the height that you need for removing the rear wheel. Its a great product and I really like mine even without the legs. Where else can you find something that can get you bike off the ground and be very stable for that price. Be sure to grease your hub/splines while you have that rear wheel off. MY Thanks for that feedback ... wasn't sure if it was "just me" or not. I'm quite OK with having to jack it higher to remove the wheel. Yep, I have pulled the pumpkin/driveshaft and lubed it and I even checked for axle alignment (no shim needed at the pumpkin/driveshaft tube) and I even swapped the inner/outer brake pads, changed the pumpkin oil. Before I put it all back together I will be lubing the shock & link pivot points. As they say, I am "all over it"
Carbon_One Posted January 19, 2010 #4 Posted January 19, 2010 In one of the other lift adapter posts I explained what I do when removing either tire. That is to raise the bike just enough to take the load of the wheels but still grounded . Take off all the neccassary bolts and hardware, then raise the bike a bit more so that you can wiggle the wheel off the hub. Once the wheel is free of the hub & sitting on the ground you raise the bike to almost or all the way up. Walk the tire out from under the bike. You'll need to cant the tire a bit to clear the fender.After the tire is out simply lower the bike to one of the jack safety stops or install the legs and set it on the ground. Depending on model of lift adapter you're using. Reinstalling the wheel is reversed. Doing it this way you won't be muscling a heavy wheel and tire in place. Larry
SilvrT Posted January 19, 2010 Author #5 Posted January 19, 2010 In one of the other lift adapter posts I explained what I do when removing either tire. That is to raise the bike just enough to take the load of the wheels but still grounded . Take off all the neccassary bolts and hardware, then raise the bike a bit more so that you can wiggle the wheel off the hub. Once the wheel is free of the hub & sitting on the ground you raise the bike to almost or all the way up. Walk the tire out from under the bike. You'll need to cant the tire a bit to clear the fender.After the tire is out simply lower the bike to one of the jack safety stops or install the legs and set it on the ground. Depending on model of lift adapter you're using. Reinstalling the wheel is reversed. Doing it this way you won't be muscling a heavy wheel and tire in place. Larry That's essentially what I did except, I already had the bike sitting on the free-standing adapter when I removed the wheel. Realizing I couldn't get it all the way out, I rolled the jack under, lifted it up high enuf and pulled the wheel out. In doing so, I angled the wheel a bit bottom out towards the right side and wiggled it past the fender and bag frame. I'd already done this once before I acquired the adapter, using the jack only and my own make-shift frame support. It was an added "comfort" to have my "assistant" holding the scoot steady.
Midnight_Star Posted February 1, 2010 #6 Posted February 1, 2010 (edited) Hi Guys I have this rear wheel whine/click rubbing noise, it has only appeared about 3months after i had new tyres fitted. I was going to take it back to the bike shop but i really want to look after my own bike, you feel better when you do things yourself. So i bought the Liftmaster jack and on Sunday i had a go, i bought 2 pieces of 2x2 wood and cut away as to miss any obstacles, pics in my album. The first lift was tending to lift front wheels of first then the rear wheel lifted but on shaking bike tenderly i found jack lifting of floor so i repositioned jack towards rear of bike as far as i could go, this was determined by putting the jack with 2x2 right on the edge where the bike frame starts to rise up frame the rear of the engine. This was more secure. with this jack they sent me 2 ratchet traps but they can only be used in the eyelets of this jack once the bike has been raised, unless i find another location. Anyway i have now got the bike of the ground and i need to read on here what i need to remove next to get wheel off. I will carry on next week. Regards Dave Update http://www.myspace.com/yamahaventure work done so far thanks to advice from Venture.Org guys. Edited March 15, 2010 by Midnight_Star Update
Freebird Posted February 1, 2010 #7 Posted February 1, 2010 It's not hard to do and I'm sure you will do just fine. One thing you may want to consider in the future is the Carbon One lift adapter. It is well worth the money.
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