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NGK DPR8 EA9- 2.59 each at Advance Auto. Order online,Use Code P20 at check out for 20% off (works for everything) and pick up at the store, ends up at 2.09 each for the OEM plug. Works for me.

 

Worked at a multiline Metric MC and PWC dealer and used nothing but NGK plugs. Never got a bad one. Had a plug cleaner we used to use on the sales bikes that got fouled form being run on choke all the time. Usually only takes one bad experience for someone to trash a brand. Always ran Champions in my OMC outboards with no problem. For a while they were the only ones that made the surface gap plugs for loopers.

 

My school of thought was always run the plug who built it. NGK or Nippon Denso for metrics Japanese, AC Delco for GM, Motorcraft for Ford, etc. Never have had a plug issue.

 

RSTDdog

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I use NGKs or Autolite. It is my opinion and past experience that Champions are JUNK!!

 

Dan, I understand the champions won't work in the first gen's due to the lack of compression and they foul out due to the oil getting by the oil rings in them old motors. When you ride a bike from this century they work fine.:stickpoke::stirthepot:

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The thread that will not die.

 

Seems like we should add Spark Plugs to "Which Motor Oil", or Car Tyre discussions.

 

Simple fact is that for decades I used nothing but Champion Spark Plugs, and never had any more or fewer issues that friends who used any other brand. Now I use NGK because they are under $2 each and the local parts stores don't carry Champion .... and I don't have issues with these either.

 

If a spark plug fouls it is because there is something else wrong. Plugs do not foul themselves. In a well tuned engine I can't see why there would anything other than marginal differences whatever the brand. It's a plug, with a gap ... it is not rocket science.

 

However, the plot thickens ....

 

In the good old days, plugs used to have a fully glazed insulator. Probably not so great for heat transfer, but wonderfully resistant to gasoline should the engine ever flood.

 

Then a miraculous thing happened ... We got computer controlled electronic fuel injection, and they quit glazing the insulators because those engines (most of them now) do not flood ... ever. The computer will refuse to deliver fuel until it detects that the cylinder has fired. No more flooding, no need to glaze, cheaper and better plugs.

 

Until we put them in carburated engines ... Then they flood, and when the gas finally burns it leaves carbon on the insulators, which tracks to ground and they don't perform so well.

 

What is worse ... you really can't clean them. Remember the older plugs that you could fully dismantle for proper cleaning?

 

If you can find older stock plugs that still have fully glazed insulators then whatever the brand they will perform better than modern ones in our low-tech engines. Don't bead blast them!

 

Meanwhile .... keep the engine well-tuned and your hand OFF the throttle when starting. You might not have the most suitable plugs, but you can give them the best chance of a decently long life ...

 

Remember ... we would consider 15k miles a decent life for a plug, but in a modern car engine they are perfectly capable of running 50, 60, 70 thousand miles.

 

In the end ... "my plug is better than your plug" doesn't get us very far. If the bikes are well-maintained, the plugs are the least of the problem.

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The thread that will not die.

 

Seems like we should add Spark Plugs to "Which Motor Oil", or Car Tyre discussions.

 

Simple fact is that for decades I used nothing but Champion Spark Plugs, and never had any more or fewer issues that friends who used any other brand. Now I use NGK because they are under $2 each and the local parts stores don't carry Champion .... and I don't have issues with these either.

 

If a spark plug fouls it is because there is something else wrong. Plugs do not foul themselves. In a well tuned engine I can't see why there would anything other than marginal differences whatever the brand. It's a plug, with a gap ... it is not rocket science.

 

However, the plot thickens ....

 

In the good old days, plugs used to have a fully glazed insulator. Probably not so great for heat transfer, but wonderfully resistant to gasoline should the engine ever flood.

 

Then a miraculous thing happened ... We got computer controlled electronic fuel injection, and they quit glazing the insulators because those engines (most of them now) do not flood ... ever. The computer will refuse to deliver fuel until it detects that the cylinder has fired. No more flooding, no need to glaze, cheaper and better plugs.

 

Until we put them in carburated engines ... Then they flood, and when the gas finally burns it leaves carbon on the insulators, which tracks to ground and they don't perform so well.

 

What is worse ... you really can't clean them. Remember the older plugs that you could fully dismantle for proper cleaning?

 

If you can find older stock plugs that still have fully glazed insulators then whatever the brand they will perform better than modern ones in our low-tech engines. Don't bead blast them!

 

Meanwhile .... keep the engine well-tuned and your hand OFF the throttle when starting. You might not have the most suitable plugs, but you can give them the best chance of a decently long life ...

 

Remember ... we would consider 15k miles a decent life for a plug, but in a modern car engine they are perfectly capable of running 50, 60, 70 thousand miles.

 

In the end ... "my plug is better than your plug" doesn't get us very far. If the bikes are well-maintained, the plugs are the least of the problem.

 

 

 

Well my sister can beat up your sister :stickpoke::whistling::rotf:

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I also used the NGK Iridium plugs. Seem to be working great! What really sold me on the iridium plugs was a video on YouTube showing the comparison between standard and iridium. Longevity is also a major plus. I still check mine at the suggested intervals.

:322:

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  • 8 years later...
I also used the NGK Iridium plugs. Seem to be working great! What really sold me on the iridium plugs was a video on YouTube showing the comparison between standard and iridium. Longevity is also a major plus. I still check mine at the suggested intervals.

:322:

 

My Kawasaki Versys 1000 came stock with Iridium plugs and I did not replace them until the bike had 110k kms (70-75k miles)

 

Whe I pulled them out, I could see some wear on the tip of the plugs (it was begining to look pointy rather than flat) but the bike was still running just fine. I noticed a small difference in throttle response after the replacement.

 

Honestly on a good running bike I would not hesitate one second keeping iridium plugs in there for a least 50k miles and on a bike where they are hard to get to I would double that number and just wait untill it's time to do a bigger job like a valve adjust to replace them.

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