86 VR Excessive Idling

[keikat02]

Hi,

 

Knowing I was not going to be able to ride for a while, about 5 or 6 months ago, I used a syphon pump to drain as much gas as possible from my 86 VR after having the needle jets cleaned by Northside Cycle (Elmer) in Corinth, Texas. For those in the Dallas area, this is a great place to have your older bikes repaired. Excellent service at a fair price.

 

Anyway, about 4 days ago, I unplugged the maintenance "trickle charger", added about a gallon of gas to the tank, opened the choke all the way, twisted the throttle a few times, and proceeded to crank it. After a couple of attempts, it started right up. I let the bike warm up to its normal operating temperature and noticed it was idling at about 1300 RPMS which is a little above the normal range of 950 to 1050 RPMS. Each day since then, I have cranked the bike and let it warm to its normal operating temperature with the same 1300 RPM idling result. However, yesterday, I finally rode the bike around the neighborhood to see how it performed (braking, accelerating, etc..) while advancing through the gears. Everything performed just fine except each time I would come to a stop, the released throttle would allow the engine to idle down to the appropriate 1000 RPMS and then it would gradually advance to the same 1300 RPMS. In turn, at each stop with the bike parked in neutral, I would advance the throttle several times and then completely release it with same results.

 

Question: Does this sound like a vacuum problem, throttle-cable problem, or another "gunked up" carburator problem?

 

Since I keep the bike polished and clean on a regular basis, I thought I might have accidentally removed a vacuum line during the cleaning. So, after I remove the fake gas tank plastic top and side covers, this is is going to be the first place I look for the problem. After that, I am hesitant to start "fiddling-around" with anything else since I have experienced trying to repair something you really know nothing about usually costs you more money than if you initially carry the problem to someone that does.

 

Anyway, your comments, suggestions, and/or advice would be appreciated concerning this issue.

 

Thank you,

 

A.S.

Dallas, Tx.

[Yammer Dan]

Sea- Foam it?? Does sound like a vacum leak.Spray WD-40 around carbs carefully and see if it revs up with this. Then it is vacum leak I think. Someone will back me up on this I think I've been smacked in the head too many times.

[Squeeze]

Sounds like alean Mixture, Sea-Foam and search for Vacuum Leaks.

[Guest seuadr]

when they cleaned the jets, did they alter the idle screw or mixture screws at all? might be a little lean because.. well.. it's set a little lean

[CrazyHorse]

I wouldnt idle the bike in the winter if your not using it. Good way to foul the plugs. One day it wont start. Dont ask how I know. I would nt leave the gas tank empty either good way to rust the tank. I would fill it up all the way and put in seafoam or stabil start run it so the mixture gets in the jets of the carbs and shut it off. Leave a trickle charge on it. I wouldnt start it again till I was ready to ride.

[camos]

Trickle chargers are not good a good choice for long term battery charging as they will eventually overcharge and boil the battery dry. A floating charger is much better.

[keikat02]

Question: Does it hurt the bike's fuel lines and/or carburators internal parts to run gasoline stabalizer in the fuel all the time?

 

Anyway, I think I found part of the problem last night. With the bike turned off, several times I advanced the throttle all the way; and, each time, it would not return to the starting point. While looking at the throttle line, I found a round "plastic set nut" (for the lack of a better term) at the beginning of the threaded throttle line underneath the right handlebar. In turn, I backed-off the plastic set nut and begin to turn the inch long "throttle adjustment connector" (for the lack of a better term), in front of the "plastic set nut", with my left hand while advancing the throttle with my right hand. I found that moving this inch long threaded "throttle adjustment connector" forwards or backwards either tightened or loosened the return response of the throttle. So, I proceeded to find the "sweet spot" in the throttle where it returned the easiest back to the throttle starting point. Once found, I moved the "plastic set nut" to the beginning of the "throttle connector adjustment" to prevent it from moving during engine vibration. Afterwards, I cranked the bike, let it warm up, and it did seem to help with the increased idling. With the bike idling, several times I would advance the throttle and the RPMS would return down to approximately 950 RPMS and would gradually increase back to 1100 RPMS. Maybe this adjustment solved part of the problem.

 

Also, after looking at the repair manual, it mentioned something about a mechanical throttle acuator with an adjustment and set screw. The manual displayed a picture of the acuator; however, it did not pinpoint the location. Do you know where the throttle acuator is located. If so, would you please advise.

 

Once again, thank you for all your comments and suggestions in helping me resolve this issue.

 

A.S.

Dallas, Texas

[CrazyHorse]

Trickle chargers are not good a good choice for long term battery charging as they will eventually overcharge and boil the battery dry. A floating charger is much better.

 

 

Yes agreed

[CrazyHorse]

Question: Does it hurt the bike's fuel lines and/or carburators internal parts to run gasoline stabalizer in the fuel all the time?

 

Anyway, I think I found part of the problem last night. With the bike turned off, several times I advanced the throttle all the way; and, each time, it would not return to the starting point. While looking at the throttle line, I found a round "plastic set nut" (for the lack of a better term) at the beginning of the threaded throttle line underneath the right handlebar. In turn, I backed-off the plastic set nut and begin to turn the inch long "throttle adjustment connector" (for the lack of a better term), in front of the "plastic set nut", with my left hand while advancing the throttle with my right hand. I found that moving this inch long threaded "throttle adjustment connector" forwards or backwards either tightened or loosened the return response of the throttle. So, I proceeded to find the "sweet spot" in the throttle where it returned the easiest back to the throttle starting point. Once found, I moved the "plastic set nut" to the beginning of the "throttle connector adjustment" to prevent it from moving during engine vibration. Afterwards, I cranked the bike, let it warm up, and it did seem to help with the increased idling. With the bike idling, several times I would advance the throttle and the RPMS would return down to approximately 950 RPMS and would gradually increase back to 1100 RPMS. Maybe this adjustment solved part of the problem.

 

Also, after looking at the repair manual, it mentioned something about a mechanical throttle acuator with an adjustment and set screw. The manual displayed a picture of the acuator; however, it did not pinpoint the location. Do you know where the throttle acuator is located. If so, would you please advise.

 

Once again, thank you for all your comments and suggestions in helping me resolve this issue.

 

A.S.

Dallas, Texas

 

I wonder if your return spring is weak. Its in a black plastic case under the left fairing forward of the carburators. Follow the throttle lines from the carb forward.

[keikat02]

What I am using is a "Battery Tender Jr." I used "trickle charger" as a generic term. This charger is supposed to be designed to keep car/motorcycle batteries properly maintained.

Is this the right kind of charger? YES or NO

[CrazyHorse]

What I am using is a "Battery Tender Jr." I used "trickle charger" as a generic term. This charger is supposed to be designed to keep car/motorcycle batteries properly maintained.

Is this the right kind of charger? YES or NO

I think they are float chargers.

[bikenut]

Check to see if all the carbs are all the way into the rubber boots below them. WHen the shop cleaned them they might have not got all of them all the way into the boots. My 86 did the same thing and that is what I found wrong on mine. This will make your bike run lean at idle. Just take plastic side covers off bike and look and see if the top of the boot is all the way up to the flanged out part of each carb. If not loosen the clamps to all four carbs and push carbs back down and tighten the clamps back up and then recheck after you are done to make sure they are right

Hope this helps

Bikenut

Wisconsin

[Condor]

Might be a leaky boost sensor hose???

[TEW47]

Have you checked the choke rods that go through the carbs? Sometimes the little tabs on thease shafts get bent and cause fast idle. Make sure all four tabs are allowing the shafts to close all the way. Just open and close the choke while looking at the carbs and you will see the shafts move forward and backward.

 

tew47

[warthogcrewchief]

To answer some of your questions: the Battery Tender line is a good brand. I have the full sized one for my bike and I love it. It has to be one of the best preventative maint. tools I own!

 

As for the fuel stabilizer/sea-foam, I've used it in my vehicles and it works just fine. Keep in mind that this stuff is designed to sit in tanks,fuel lines, etc for extended periods of time. Just remember not to use this stuff full strength, but to dilute it to either the recommended level on the back (about 1 oz. per gallon of gas) or for a stronger mix, half a can for a full tank.

 

Keep in mind that the sea foam will affect the mixture just a little bit. I learned this when I restored a virago 750. I found that I had to ensure the sea foam was all out, and then fine tune the mixture. If I remember correctly, seafoam doesn't burn as well as gasoline, so it causes it to be just a little "lean".

[Venturous Randy]

One other thing to look for is to see if a throttle cable has been pinched. SGN can fill you in on this. There is a point where the cables can get pinched if they were not routed correctly.

RandyA

[PreachJohn]

On 1/13/2010 at 11:14 PM, camos said:

Trickle chargers are not good a good choice for long term battery charging as they will eventually overcharge and boil the battery dry. A floating charger is much better.

It's exactly the reverse. Solid state/electronic multi phase tenders are the way to go. It's the float ball trickle chargers that will boil your battery.  It is a good idea to remove the tender every couple of weeks or so for a while. Batteries have to 'work' to stay in top shape.

 

[saddlebum]

Before I got the battery tender I used a trickle charger in conjunction with a timer switch. I set the timer to turn the charger on for two hours every day,  (i never remove the battery) cover the bike (it sits outside all winter) and left it until spring . Then when I got the 1.25 battery tender  I just plug it into the bike and again forget about it until spring. Come spring the bike fired right up and the battery worked great. Not sure how old that battery was before I replaced it with the DEKA battery as it was in the bike when I bought it but I still got three years out of it plus whatever was on it prior my purchasing the bike.

This is year 7 on my DECKA AGM battery and it is still working great. I still have never removed the battery and the bike still sits out under cover all winter hooked up to the battery tender, so I would say IMHO that its not necessary to remove it. you may however in the case of a regular lead acid battery want to check the water level every once in a while, though I must admit I never have.

Edited June 25, 2021 by saddlebum