dingy Posted January 3, 2010 #1 Posted January 3, 2010 Does anyone have a dead TCI that they would donate to me. I will gladly pay shipping. I tried the diode repair to my TCI and I am uncertain of the results. I used too high a wattage solder iron to remove diodes and damaged the circuit board traces somewhat. I obtained a second one that was very corroded and tried the replacement of diodes again and they looked much better, but due to corrosion of unit I believe it is unserviceable. Any 83 to 89 units that are laying around would be appreciated. I will open any donated one up and see if the diode degradation was possibly the reason for the unit failure. I can get the replacement diodes for about $5.00 to try and repair. This is a somewhat difficult procedure to replace these diodes, but after 2 practice tries, I am getting better at it. I believe I can use a post 84 on my present 1200 engine. I have the correct vacuum line to use on the post 84 units. Also I am anticipating getting a 1300 engine in the next week or so. PM me if you can help !! Gary
SaltyDog Posted January 4, 2010 #2 Posted January 4, 2010 Gary, I am interested in upgrading my spare '83 TCI also. Could you tell me the type of replacement diodes needed for the procedure. I have fixed automobile ECMs before with bad components and I am a ex-Navy electronics technician, so I am not unfamiliar with circuit board repair.
dingy Posted January 4, 2010 Author #3 Posted January 4, 2010 Gary, I am interested in upgrading my spare '83 TCI also. Could you tell me the type of replacement diodes needed for the procedure. I have fixed automobile ECMs before with bad components and I am a ex-Navy electronics technician, so I am not unfamiliar with circuit board repair. I used IN4001, these are good for 100 v, Radio Shack has them for 99 cents for two. Attached are a couple of files that may help you. The PDF showing the views of the board with numbers on it. I made this up so I could point to point check the inputs of the TCI connections. Since it is a dual side board and once you start soldering it back into the case, the back side is not viewable, I made this so I could ohm out the connections once I had soldered them. I did not show the numbers that could be followed on the visible side of the board. If the trace was on the bottom side, I put the number on the top side view. The numbering format I used was pulled from another TCI post on this site. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15131&highlight=TCI+testing+info The second shot is what the diodes look like when they are very deteriorated. [ATTACH]39912[/ATTACH] This is not an easy solder job. I have been formally trained three different times in soldering techniques, Technical school, Marine Avionics and Railroad signaling. Three decades ago though, not quite like riding a bicycle, keeping in practice would have helped, as would have better eye sight !! This board is very sensitive to heat and lifting of the circuit traces. This first try is just ugly. One of the members here, and I can't find his PM he sent me, said to add fresh solder to the traces before desoldering them. I used a vacuum style solder sucker and that did help a lot on the second one. I used a 60 watt iron. Good Luck Gary
SaltyDog Posted January 4, 2010 #4 Posted January 4, 2010 Gary, Thanks alot for the .pdf on the TCI board. This last Spring I successfully desoldered my current TCI and cleaned it up and then re-soldered all the plug pins. I also used a solder sucker and solder wick to get the old joints cleaned up. It took some patience and careful handling but all is well and the TCI has worked pefectly for over 6 months now. With this spare TCI, I plan to just cut open the opposite side of the TCI enclosure to gain access and spare all the extra work. I can glue the cover back together when I am finished. I have ABS solvent that has worked great on the fairing repairs and I will use it on the TCI. With the TCI relocated to the top of the airbox, water ingress isn't much of a problem anymore. I just have to keep small flying critters from becoming lodged in the works when I fly low on my '83 down the interstate.
timgray Posted January 4, 2010 #5 Posted January 4, 2010 Good luck. From my testing and fighting with TCI's for my 83 it seems that when a Diode fails it takes out another part of the TCI. I had no luck fixing a TCI that had a diode failure with new diodes. I just wish someone would find a schematic of these things.
dingy Posted January 4, 2010 Author #6 Posted January 4, 2010 Good luck. From my testing and fighting with TCI's for my 83 it seems that when a Diode fails it takes out another part of the TCI. I had no luck fixing a TCI that had a diode failure with new diodes. I just wish someone would find a schematic of these things. Sounded like a good idea at the time. Thanks Tim. Gary
SaltyDog Posted January 4, 2010 #7 Posted January 4, 2010 I am replacing the glass diodes purely from a preventative standpoint. I will do the back-up TCI first after I make sure it runs correctly. I cut the back panel off of the TCI case to allow access to both sides without having to de-solder the board from the plugs. I will add screws in the corners of the removed panel and a gasket when I am done with the conversion. This will allow me to open it up in the future if needed. Pictures will follow as I get further on the project...
lonestarmedic Posted January 4, 2010 #8 Posted January 4, 2010 I think perhaps a lower wattage and a regulated power supply might help. 60 watts is pretty healthy. I use 5-25 watts on most circuit boards. Also, in addition to the new solder trick you can always cut the diode off the board and leave the "legs" in the holes. Then heat up the legs and push them out the back. That way you can avoid lifting the circuit trace off the front of the board. Then a bit of braid to wick the solder out of the holes. JB
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