Manifold O-rings Float level Setup

[Grisolm1]

Getting ready to tear into my 88Vr to do carbs, valve adjust etc.

 

OringsUSA.com sells most any type/size of O-ring cheap $0.50 for quality viton vs $6 each from dealer. Based on Yammy part number the Manifold to head O-rings are 45mm, not sure of thickness. Anybody ever gotten these from other sources than Yammy.

 

What do you guys use to set float levels. I'm thinking you need to have a replacement bowl plug with a nipple threaded in to accept some clear tubing.

 

This is the best forum ever to answer these cheap bastard (which I am) questions.

[Snaggletooth]

On the float level.......simple enough to do without changing anything. Hit the auto supply store and find a set of male/male nipples. Usually in an assortment pack. Make sure there is one small enough to fit the black drain lines on the carbs. I used air line tubing from the pet shop for the extention lines.

 

All you need to do in plug the nipple into the new section of clear line (about 6 inches worth) and then plug the other end of the nipple into the black drain line. Run the bike for a minute and then shut it down. Hold the new clear line up to the side of the carb and open the drain line and you will see it fill with gas. With that line pointing up the fuel level should be about 15 to 16 mm BELOW the scribe line on the carbs. The scribe line is the center of the sliders.

 

If it is over that mark you will be prone for running rich or flooding. Under it, fuel starvation and hard starting.

 

I advise taking these reading BEFORE removing the carbs from the bike so you know if you have a problem before you go in and can make needed adjustments the first time.

 

If you do change the float settings you will probably end up pulling the carbs on and off a couple of times to get them all the same or as close as you can.

 

Remember the bike has to be on the center stand and use a short level to make sure the carbs are level. If the bike is leaning to the front or rear the carbs will not read correctly.

 

As far as o-rings.......I go by how hard it is to get to them and replace them. If it's a toughy, I go OEM. I have a selection box I got through a friend of mine that I use for about everything else. Harbour Freight sells a selection box I think for about $20.00 Comes in handy to but only about a third of the sizes will fit the bikes needs. Still......cheaper than OEM.

[MiCarl]

I agree with Snaggletooth on everything except:

 

You should have the motorcycle running when you do the actual level measurement. You need to fuel pump to replace the fuel that ends up in the tube to obtain an accurate reading. Even on motorcycles with gravity feed systems the procedures specify to check with the engine running.

 

When you check your levels BEFORE removing the carburetors carefully record your results. By calculating how far off you are you can usually get a good result by adjusting the float that amount (need to make an educated guess where on the float to measure, sort of the midpoint of the volume it displaces). Otherwise you're flying blind and will become a real pro at removing and installing the rack of carburetors.

[Freebird]

I don't understand why you are using that method. If you have the carbs off anyway, it is best to just use a caliper or ruler to set them while the bowls are off.

[Grisolm1]

I was planning to use a squeeze bottle to supply fuel under slight pressure to the fuel inlet with carbs flat on the bench. Good to know I can tap into an existing hose on the carb to measure it. I'll also make a before measurement as suggested.

 

Any issues with this method?

[Snaggletooth]

Hey Don.

 

The answer to that is simple. Too many variables on multipule carbs. Even if each float is set with a gauge at the exact same measurement with the bowls open there will still be a difference when filled with fuel. It may come out close but checking the actual fuel level is about the only way to know that the fuel bowl level is correct.

 

Added note: As an example, on my '84 I had all kinds of float problems when I bought it. Two bad ones were sinking and the other two were not in good shape where the tang attached to the float itself. I had a whole range of setting on each carb to get the fuel levels right. I treated a second set with airplane dope and that does add a bit of weight to the float so the settings for that set were a bit different from the untreated set.

 

I finally got with Squeeze and found that the V-Max floats were the same as the 1st gens. I bought a set of four new ones from Buckeye and installed them. I used a gauge and set all floats to the exact same level with the bowls open. When I installed the carbs I had pretty even readings between all four carbs but all were a little low. Opened them back up and tweaked each one as needed. Had to do it twice with the new floats but ended up with them at 15mm below the scribe line. I called that good enough. That was last spring and I checked them before I put the bike up for the winter and they were still spot on.

Edited December 29, 2009 by Snaggletooth