bike not tracking straight.

[barend]

double whammy here! First, my '83 is not tracking straight when I let go of the handlebars. I recall from my commuting days that I used to sit on the back seat of the Virago with the thumb lock on and my hands in my pockets and ride for miles going down I20. My VR ('83) won't do that, she falls away to the left. What would cause this? Warped frame, tire out of balance, left side of my rear too big??? And after that of course, how do you fix it and is it worth the effort?

Second and the main reason I bring this up, now that I have a sidecar attached, I am trying to attain neutral steering by adjusting the toe in. In theory I should be able to adjust sidecar toe-in to achieve the rig to be steering neutral, but that might come at the price of increased tire wear. Any suggestions or opinions?

Thanks!

[RandyR]

Do you know if it does it without the hack?

[Bob Myers]

SOunds like the bike is leaning a little to the left. Not knowing how your hack is setup but I would think there is a link to adjust vertical attitude of the bike, adjust it so the bike is leaning 1 more degree towards the hack and see if it does it as bad.

[barend]

Do you know if it does it without the hack?

Hey Randy, yes, she would turn left prior to the sidecar, bad enough you wouldn't want to do it on the left side of the left lane while n ot paying attention, but not enough to be noticeable while riding hands on.

 

SOunds like the bike is leaning a little to the left. Not knowing how your hack is setup but I would think there is a link to adjust vertical attitude of the bike, adjust it so the bike is leaning 1 more degree towards the hack and see if it does it as bad.

Thanks for the input Bob, you do realize that I have a leaner sidecar? The bike is still a bike and though i can adjust the lean of the sidecar, I don't think that would affect the left turning tendency of the bike. I'll find out for sure though. Thanks.

[RandyR]

The easy way to check wheel alignment is to lay a yardstick or other long straightedge accross two spots of one side of the wheel/tire and see where it points.

[Bob Myers]

Thanks for the input Bob, you do realize that I have a leaner sidecar? The bike is still a bike and though i can adjust the lean of the sidecar, I don't think that would affect the left turning tendency of the bike. I'll find out for sure though. Thanks.

 

No sir, I had no idea you even had a hack until I read this thread. I live in a cave and only come out every couple weeks to see if it is spring yet.

 

Can you get your bike up on a lift where you can get down and really look at the tires and their alignment? It sounds like the back tire is pointing to the right a little in the front. Having never looked at a service manual or had a swingarm apart I'm shooting in the dark. Can those be shimmed or adjusted to change the attitude of the rear tire? Sort of like aligning the rear tire on a chain drive? My Vulcan when properly aligned will pull left, to compensate some I always adjust the chain closer to the tire in front than my laser light says it should be. Most of the left turn tendency disappears.

[Bob Myers]

The easy way to check wheel alignment is to lay a yardstick or other long straightedge accross two spots of one side of the wheel/tire and see where it points.

El-cheapo laser pointer and measure from the tire to the beam is very accurate, and easy. If you have a camera tripod it is simple to setup. One of the 8" tall tripod from Dollar Tree works best, and only cost $1.

[ctraylor]

My bike was pulling and I pulled the forks off and resealed them and refilled with 15 weight for oil and pull was gone. I think one side was out of oil.

[warthogcrewchief]

There is no adjustment on the rear wheel as it is a shaft drive bike. The front wheel could be off a little due to the forks twisting (I hear the super-brace works wonders for that). However, it usually isn't the case. I would first look at a new set of tires, then after the bike tracks well without the sidecar, look at addressing the issue of mounting (the sidecar).

[barend]

Had a new tire put on the rear last summer and will be ordering a new front in the next week or so (this one's cupping and about worn out anyway). I'll be looking into the dyno beads for that in case balance is an issue. Don't have the right size tools to pull the steering head and tighten the bearings there, so a trip to the shop will be in order, with this being Christmas week and him having bankers hours this winter, catching him may prove elusive:o , will check fork oil while I'm at it. I'll also be upgrading to the super brace (anyone have a used one?)

 

Here's a thought (this is a veiled attempt at a bribe - sort off), anyone close by wants to help with some of that:confused07: You might be the first and only one from VR.org who will have seen the sidecar in person:whistling:

 

The sidecar alignment is a different story, most likely I'll be starting from scratch on that one:doh: some things they did you would think they should've known better. I'll be checking frame alignment, wheel alignment, wheel spacers (I know they're too long and pinching the bearing) and lean out.

 

Merry Christmas everyone!!

[dynodon]

Barend, My '86 VR behaved much like you describe. Wanted to fall left so I had to shift a lot of weight right to make it track without hands on the bar. mine also shimmy'd at most speeds. You CAN tighten (or loosen) the head bearings without doing anything more than removing the cover/buttons for the cruise. I believe there is a tutorial in the tech section if you search for it, but basically, remove the cruise cover, and with a light locate the head bearing locknuts. You can then take a long thin screwdriver and get on the lugs to either tighten or loosen the tension. I tightened mine since my bars fell easily to the side with the front wheel off the ground. I moved it maybe 1/2 a lug width, and test drove, and it solved the problem, and in several thousand more miles, I have zero shimmy.

 

As for the other problem, make sure your weight in the saddlebags/trunk is equal, check tire pressure, and in my case, the problem lessened a lot when I put new E3 tires on front and back. My old tires had developed the dreaded midwest corn country flat spots on the tread, and I was amazed at how different the bike rode/drove with new tires. Felt like it was going to fall over on me the first few feet till I got used to riding again with rounded tires! The bike still wants to fall left some, but it is a lot better.

[yamahamer]

Have you checked your front brakes? Jack the bike enough to get the front wheel off the ground, pull one calliper off left or right, spin the wheel then put that one on and take the other off and spin. you could have a calliper going bad slowly or just sticking a little.

[barend]

You CAN tighten (or loosen) the head bearings without doing anything more than removing the cover/buttons for the cruise. I believe there is a tutorial in the tech section if you search for it, but basically, remove the cruise cover, and with a light locate the head bearing locknuts. You can then take a long thin screwdriver and get on the lugs to either tighten or loosen the tension.

Was looking to see if i could do that but there is a lock type washer (supposedly) and I can't get the brace of with the tools I have. I'll see if maybe I am "lucky" and the tabbed lock washer is gone prior to finding the tech article. Thanks for the input!

 

Have you checked your front brakes? Jack the bike enough to get the front wheel off the ground, pull one calliper off left or right, spin the wheel then put that one on and take the other off and spin. you could have a calliper going bad slowly or just sticking a little.

Front brakes were totally rebuild last summer (so they said) though the disks are original and are by no means smooth smooth. When I lift the front wheel of and spin it there is a slight rubbing from either a warped disk or wheel. Haven't decided what side yet. another thing on the list to check. I started checking into the caliper upgrade, but Earl tells me I'd have to change forks (and disks, and ...???) as well. Still not convinced I need to de-link either

[mbrood]

My 86 has a "slight rubbing" (the tire was resistive in spots) when I lifted and spun the front tire. Thinking it was a hanging brake, I pulled the calipers and tried again... same resistance. I pulled the axle and when rolled across the kitchen counter it showed it was bent! New axle, no rubbing. Just a thought.

[Bob Myers]

Have you checked your front brakes? Jack the bike enough to get the front wheel off the ground, pull one calliper off left or right, spin the wheel then put that one on and take the other off and spin. you could have a calliper going bad slowly or just sticking a little.

I have read this before that people claim a brake doing more on one side than the other will make a bike pull to the side. How? IF it does, then why does my Vulcan not make a complete turn when I nail the front brake? It only has a brake on one side.

I don't understand either how having one fork tube low on oil can cause it. This one needs an explanation please.

[barend]

laid a section of angle iron under the front and rear wheel (pyramid style) and centered it then laid another parallel to the tire: the rear tire appears to be straight.

 

Came by the bike shop and they happened to be open (Christmas hours I guess), the man says steering head is tight, though he also said that it may need to be tighter due to the sidecar. Or a tire. then wants to know if I can leave it; .........uhhhh,.... NO! Says it takes an hour to tighten the steering head! Also says he needs the bike a half day to put a new tire on ($125 if I buy from him, $39 if I bring the tire and wheel)

Edited December 22, 2009 by barend

[warthogcrewchief]

I really doubt the brakes are your causal issue. I do feel that the tire may be a big part of the problem. Cupping (usually due to improper tire pressure) is usually the culprit, and a dangerous one at that!

 

The fork oil isn't hard to change out. I would recommend going to Mobil 1 synthetic 5w-30 motor oil for the forks! It really helps to cut down on the wear and tear and does a good job with the heavy loads on the forks.

 

I hear great things about the super brace and plan on getting one for my bike...as soon as I can find a used on at a good price.

[barend]

I think I found the culprit, after checking to make sure the floor was level i checked the bike was level and the wheel vertical. Front wheel is OK but the rear wheel is of. I've got a 14 inch square and it says the thing is of vertical by about a 1/4 inch. Perpetual right turn in the rear.

 

As far as the sidecar, I discovered that the alleged lean out was actually a lean in, so it was pushing the front to the left. I've adjusted the lean in to a lean out and the whole thing is running better, feels better. Just a little more adjustment (I think) :happy65: Life is good!!

 

Thanks for the input and Merry Christmas! :sun:

[Bob Myers]

SO how do you adjust the vertical attitude? Does it have dowel pins in addition to the bolts for the mount ?

[barend]

SO how do you adjust the vertical attitude? Does it have dowel pins in addition to the bolts for the mount ?

 

I'm assuming you're asking that about the side car. I've actually modified the mounts, the lower mounts (front) and rear mounts are connected with a unified frame in the shape of an "H" (more or less) The front upper mounts are connected with a push/pull rod. All connections are with Heim joints so it is a relatively simple matter to unscrew/screw in the joint for adjustments. See attached pics. The vertical brace between upper and lower control arms prevented leaning when I brought it home, also made it ride like a pig and made me wonder why anyone would want a rigid sidecar!

 

Hmm, doesn't seem to want to upload, look in my pic folder, there is a picture there that kind of shows what I'm talking about. Sorry.

Edited December 23, 2009 by barend