etohio Posted December 18, 2009 #1 Posted December 18, 2009 Do I have to remove the pumpkin and rear tire on a 1988 Venture to get the drive shaft out? I tried to find information in the maint book but no luck. It looks like you might be able to do it but do you have to slide the pumpkin back some way? I am still very new to this bike but am sure haveing a lot of fun with it. Hope I get to ride it soon! Ed
dingy Posted December 18, 2009 #2 Posted December 18, 2009 [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=3384]First Gen Service Manuals - VentureRider.Org[/ame] Thread above will take you to a download for the service manual for your bike. You want the one labeled "First Gen Manual". Go to section 6 page 55 for instructions for shaft drive Short answer to your question is Yes you have to remove wheel and final drive to get at drive shaft. Why do you want to remove it though? Gary
dingy Posted December 18, 2009 #4 Posted December 18, 2009 I want to grease the spline That would be a good reason. When you do that, try not to pull it out of U-joint in front. That is, unless you want to lube the u-joint end. I don't know what the recommendations are on this. It is just a PITA to get back in u-joint. Gary
MiCarl Posted December 18, 2009 #5 Posted December 18, 2009 That would be a good reason. When you do that, try not to pull it out of U-joint in front. That is, unless you want to lube the u-joint end. I don't know what the recommendations are on this. It is just a PITA to get back in u-joint. Gary The MKII 1st gens have a grease boot from the shaft to the coupler. I believe the service manual calls for that boot to be attached to the coupler with an adhesive. On mine that boot pulled the shaft out with the final drive. I ended up ruining that boot digging it out of the coupler. I didn't use adhesive on the new one.
warthogcrewchief Posted December 18, 2009 #6 Posted December 18, 2009 You might as well lube your U-joint. Since you're removing your rear tire, brake, and pumpkin, you'll have to remove the mufflers. Since you're removing the mufflers, you might as well remove the saddle bags and tubing. Since you have all that removed already, you might as well remove the rear swing arm (only two more bolts at the pivot point, and then two bolts connecting to the center stand "wishbone") to lube the bearings... Since you should remove the swing arm, you might as well remove the U-joint boot and inspect for cracks or tearing. Since you should remove the boot, you should use some cleaner (like carb cleaner) to get rid of all the old grease on the U-joint and lube it up REALLY well with new grease... After you install a good boot (original or new), fill up the void in the boot with as much grease as you can...it will help protect the U-joint from any possible debris that may come into the boot. Oh, don't forget to put new lube into your rear wheel bearings and lube up your rear axle too. After you re-install the pumpkin, you might as well replace the fluid in it (unless you already have). I know this all sounds like a lot of work, but you could easily knock this out in a weekend!
Flyinfool Posted December 18, 2009 #7 Posted December 18, 2009 Its those "might as wells" that always get me in trouble.
dingy Posted December 18, 2009 #8 Posted December 18, 2009 Its those "might as wells" that always get me in trouble. Might as wells have me to this point now. http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/nakedbike.jpg Gary
etohio Posted December 18, 2009 Author #9 Posted December 18, 2009 I know how this goes,,,,,I bought a BSA Rocket 3 and all I was going to do was get it running again,,,,,after stripping to the frame and powder coating frame and everything I have so much in it I do not want to ride it. Guess I should sell it and use the money for something else I do not think I will get that carried away again.
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