Passing Lamp Not Working

[N3FOL]

I have my passing lamp dealer installed at the time I purchased the bike. I went for a ride last Monday and discovered that my passing lamp (both lights) are no longer working. I checked the fuse box on the left side of the bike and all fuses are ok. All other lights work, rear lights, and turn signals work...except my passing lamps. Where else should I look...do I have to split the fairing (left side)?

[Freebird]

OK...this may be a dumb question but did your dealer install the switch? They do come with a switch and most I think were installed beside the 12volt receptacle on the left side of the fairing. It was a rubber covered push button switch and they weren't very good quality. That would be the first thing that I would check.

[Owen]

My lamps have an 'inline' fuse on the main power lead. Mine is located inside the faring near the on off switch. Yours may be located elsewhere. If it is blown, look for a short in the wiring where it exits the lamp mount.

[N3FOL]

OK...this may be a dumb question but did your dealer install the switch? They do come with a switch and most I think were installed beside the 12volt receptacle on the left side of the fairing. It was a rubber covered push button switch and they weren't very good quality. That would be the first thing that I would check.

 

Yes. They did install a switch next to the 12V receptacle. The switch does click, but there was a time when the switch did not click the right way and the lamps did not turn on right away. IMO, the switch looks good for now...but you are right...the switch does feel funny right now. Any other suggestions...? Should I think about replacing the switch or just keep the switch on the ON position and start the bike that way in order to minimize wear and tear in the future.

[N3FOL]

My lamps have an 'inline' fuse on the main power lead. Mine is located inside the faring near the on off switch. Yours may be located elsewhere. If it is blown, look for a short in the wiring where it exits the lamp mount.

 

My wiring appears to be ok. Well insulated done by the dealer. If no luck on tracing for the trouble...I may be forced to open the fairing. However, Freebird does have a good point...I suspected 40% that the switch may be the culprit. Coming home tonight around 8 pm was not a problem since the Venture really had a nice headlight that is bright enough...but I really want my passing lamps to light up soon...

[BradT]

Take out the light, sometimes the ground wire breaks off the housing and needs to be re soldiered. If it is okay use a multi meter and check for power back to the switch.

 

Brad

[N3FOL]

Hmmmm. That does not sound good if the ground wire would just break off inside the lamp housing. I'm hesitant to go in the lamp itself...I will have to think about that hard and decide what my options are. As far as the switch is concerned, I probably will have to get in the fairing which I have never done...might break something in the process. However, I see 3 or 4 allen head bolts on the left and right side of the fairing...is this all i have to take out and the rear side should pop off?

[Jerry W]

If your lights were a dealer installed accessory, would they not be covered under warranty? I am thinking I would run it by the dealer.

[N3FOL]

That does make sense. The passing lamp was a dealer installed accessory for the Venture...so this may be covered under warranty. The only problem is the dealer where I bought the Venture is apx. 600 miles away near the PA/OH border. Do you think another Yamaha dealer may be willing to take a look at this as a warranty work? My issue...it is an accessory.

[Jerry W]

I bought my bike in Springfield, Mo. and I live in the Texas panhandle. The only warranty work I have had done on the bike was a leak in the radiator, but the Amarillo, Tx. dealer had no problem. I am thinking a Yamaha warranty is a Yamaha warranty. The dealer is reimbursed by Yamaha for their labor. I would give it a shot. I think the warranty covers dealer installed accessories, you don't really have much to lose by checking.

 

Here is what Yamaha says about their warranty, doesn't say you have to return it to the dealer your purchased it from.

 

THE PERIOD OF WARRANTY for the Yamaha Royal Star or

Venture including windshield, saddlebags, and mounting hardware

and/or audio equipment installed as original equipment,

shall be five (5) years from the date of purchase, regardless

of mileage.

MODELS EXCLUDED FROM WARRANTY include those

used for non-Yamaha authorized renting, leasing, or other

commercial purposes.

DURING THE PERIOD OF WARRANTY any authorized

Yamaha motorcycle dealer will, free of charge, repair or

replace, at Yamaha’s option, any part adjudged defective by

Yamaha due to faulty workmanship or material from the factory.

Parts used in warranty repairs will be warranted for the balance

of the product’s warranty period. All parts replaced under

warranty become the property of Yamaha Motor Corporation,

U.S.A.

GENERAL EXCLUSIONS from this warranty shall include any

failures caused by:

a. Competition of racing use.

b. Installation of parts or accessories that are not qualitatively

equivalent to genuine Yamaha parts.

c. Abnormal strain, neglect, or abuse.

d. Lack of proper maintenance or storage.

e. Accident or collision damage.

f. Modification to original parts.

g. Damage due to improper transportation.

Edited December 2, 2009 by Jerry W

[SteveP]

.... I probably will have to get in the fairing which I have never done...might break something in the process. However, I see 3 or 4 allen head bolts on the left and right side of the fairing...is this all i have to take out and the rear side should pop off?

 

Splitting the fairing is a straightforward process. With the help of [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=494]Freebird's guide[/ame], you'll have that sucker apart with no worries. Just take your time, one step at a time.

[celling]

When I installed my they worked for most the summer and than quit. I found that the in line fuse was junk. Replaced it with the spade type fuse and they work fine now.

[raceman62race]

Splitting the fairing is a straightforward process. With the help of Freebird's guide, you'll have that sucker apart with no worries. Just take your time, one step at a time.

 

 

Good write up on splitting the fairing but be very careful removing the crome piece at the base of the windshield. It costs $170.00 from Yamaha......guess how I know?

[N3FOL]

Splitting the fairing is a straightforward process. With the help of Freebird's guide, you'll have that sucker apart with no worries. Just take your time, one step at a time.

Great write up with pics indeed. Thanks for the link. Option A will be to go to a dealer and have them fix it. Option B...To Be Determined...maybe split the fairing myself.

[N3FOL]

When I installed my they worked for most the summer and than quit. I found that the in line fuse was junk. Replaced it with the spade type fuse and they work fine now.

 

Where exactly was your inline fuse located? How did you get to it?

[LilBeaver]

Where exactly was your inline fuse located? How did you get to it?

 

Since your lamps were dealer installed [the in-line fuse] is probably in between the splice from the headlamp wiring/circuit and the switch - which you have to split the fairing to get to.

 

Splitting the fairing is as easy as it sounds, so don't worry about getting it apart and whatnot. Just be patient, take it easy and follow the directions and you will be fine!

 

Pulling the lamp out of the housing is even easier than splitting the fairing. There is a single screw that holds the lamp surrounds/ring on, (probably oriented on the bottom of the lamp). Loosen it up, the outer ring slides off and the lamp can fall out (make sure you are holding the lamp itself when you pull the ring off, as the lamp MIGHT fall out). Then you can just take a peek at the back to see what kind of shape the leads are in.

 

If you are at all apprehensive about this, and it sounds like you are, according to the warranty agreement that JerryW posted, YOU ARE COVERED by ANY Yamaha dealer. You PAID for the warranty when you bought the bike, you ought to take advantage of it if you want to. Have them fix that switch too - if you don't want to do that yourself.

 

Again, don't be afraid to get into it or make a dealer make good on the money you spent on those Yamaha accessories.

 

Good luck friend!!

[N3FOL]

I spoke to my closest local Yamaha dealership (16 miles) and inquired about a warranty repair for my Passing Lamps. They stated that if the problem was caused by the other dealer as a result of a kinked wire as an example, I will be responsible for the repair bill. They also stated that depending on the problem, it may or may not be a warranty issue since it did not come from the factory. However, they said I can bring in the bike this time of the year and they will take me right away (shop must not be too busy). So I am scheduled to take the bike this Friday afternoon.

 

On the other hand, I went ahead and called the dealer that installed my Passing Lamps and inquired about the inline fuse. They said that it can be accessed from the front by removing two Phillips screws located just below the headlight. The chrome ring should come off and a white fuse holder will be visible. They added that vibration can cause the fuse to blow and it is very unlikely that both lamps will go out.

 

When I come home from work, removing two screws is an easier task than actually removing the fairing. Hope it is just a fuse problem.

[Sylvester]

I split my fairing 7-8 times a year. Very easy to do. Your switch is most likely the problem since I have replaced my original with a marine grade toggle switch. If you do it yourself then you need to install a relay. The installation is in the tech section and again is straight forward.

 

[LilBeaver]

 

...

 

On the other hand, I went ahead and called the dealer that installed my Passing Lamps and inquired about the inline fuse. They said that it can be accessed from the front by removing two Phillips screws located just below the headlight. The chrome ring should come off and a white fuse holder will be visible. They added that vibration can cause the fuse to blow and it is very unlikely that both lamps will go out.

 

When I come home from work, removing two screws is an easier task than actually removing the fairing. Hope it is just a fuse problem.

I hope too, for your sake, that it is a simple fuse problem! I would suggest though, as others have here, that at some-point you do wire those lamps up with a relay (activated by something other than the headlight circuit...)

 

I may be mistaken, but I do not know of these 'two Phillips screws' that pop the headlight out . My bike is not in front of me right now... since I am supposedly 'working', but hopefully my memory is failing me and it WILL be that easy for you

 

Anyhoot, Good luck! :fingerscrossed:

[Freebird]

I've also had my fairing off many times and I certainly don't THINK that you can remove the chrome around the light that way. There is ONE screw and you have to remove it to remove the front of the fairing after removing all the allen head screws on the inner fairing.

[bamico]

Had the same issue on both my Venture and my RSTD.

 

RSTD ended up being a short in the wire coming out of the harness into the passing lamp.

Its tight in there... Venture has similar setup on the passing lamp bracket. Couldn't see the short without taking the whole thing apart.

 

Venture had the dealer installed, brand new, in line fuse fail after less than a week. Dealer split the fairing and replaced the in line fuse holder.

 

So, could be either.

 

The RSTD had the in line fuse within the headlight as you described (could be what your dealer meant... got the models confused...) However, I believe, as others have stated, that the in line fuse on the Venture is in the fairing, not accessable without splitting.

 

Hope this helps. Just my experiences.

 

Bob

[dragerman]

Check to see if the passing lamp wires pass anywhere near your steering ‘stop block’. I've had mine get pinched between the blocks cutting the wire insulation and blow the fuse. I happened to notice it by chance and have since repaired and rerouted the wires.

[N3FOL]

I've also had my fairing off many times and I certainly don't THINK that you can remove the chrome around the light that way. There is ONE screw and you have to remove it to remove the front of the fairing after removing all the allen head screws on the inner fairing.

You are right, there are no 2 Phillips screws on the bottom...just one allen head screw and it won't take off the chrome cover around the headlight. I do see wires coming from the center and of the lamp bracket and goes towards the switch next to the 12V receptable. I have a feeling that the dealer will charge me at least an hour...probably more to get in the fairing and replace the inline fuse. So, I decided to tackle the job myself. I hope I can pull the front fairing off easily with the passing lamp still installed as depicted on your tech link. Friday late afternoon after dinner is the big day and I hope I can put it all back together that same night...I just have to be very careful with that chrome piece in front of the windshield.

 

BTW, what type of fuse that is come with? I'd like to pick one up today and be ready for Friday.

[N3FOL]

Check to see if the passing lamp wires pass anywhere near your steering ‘stop block’. I've had mine get pinched between the blocks cutting the wire insulation and blow the fuse. I happened to notice it by chance and have since repaired and rerouted the wires.

 

No, all the wires are out of the way and not being pinched. I really hope that the fuse is blown.

[Skid]

I didn't know there was a switch, or maybe mine just have one....