overtaxing charging circuit?

[dynodon]

OK, some advice please.

 

I have an '86 VR with 40,000 miles. Runs great no problems to speak of at the moment...except:

 

I have added some new stuff to it since getting four years ago. (note, it has accessory running/brake/turn lights on the trunk, but otherwise was stock for electrical stuff.)

 

I am running with the fm radio on, and usually the CB also.

 

First I added fog lights. Typical small accessory lights (twin 55 watt?) and no problem.

 

then added GPS, Garmin 765T and hard wired it to the battery. NO problem.

 

Finally added heated tourmaster gloves hardwired to the battery. ONLY the gloves. Started out OK, but after a few miles if I come to a stop, the charge voltmeter goes below 12 to about 11, and when I take off it doesn't go back up to the about 13 volts like normal.

 

Turn off the fog lights and it goes back up to normal. Turn them back on and as long as the bike keeps going, its ok, just when I let rpms drop quite a bit.

 

My guess is I have hit the limit of the stock charging system.

 

Two Questions:

 

1. IF I try to keep going like this will I hurt something?

 

2. What upgrade possibilities do I have?

 

Many thanks for any and all advice.

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Im afraid you have bumped into the limit...and if you continue, my guess is that it will either fry the stator, the regulator, or the battery (maybe all three!)

 

Heres what I would do, in order of preference:

 

First, get a variable electronic controller for the gloves, which will reduce the duty cycle, and only run them as warm as you need, not hot all the time.

 

Second, change out the bulbs in the driving lites to 35 watts, or even 20 watts. This will save alot of energy.

 

Third, change the tail/brake/running lights to LEDs.

 

Fourth, add a headlight modulator, which, when operating, reduces the overall current drawn by the headlight, but only during daylight hours.

 

Doing these items in steps will allow you to determine where your 'sweet' spot is and balance the loads.

 

You will get several opinions on this, but this is what I would do if it were me.

[MiCarl]

I'm at the limit on my 89 with a few running lights on back, radio and a pair of 55w lights. Stop and go the battery draws down. If I keep above 3Krpm and off the brakes (anti-dives) it seems to be ok.

[Condor]

When the bike gets below 2000rpm the stator doesn't put out, and the entire electrical demand has to be supplied by the battery. With all that electrical on, and the battery not having enough CC amps stored, the voltage will drop like a rock. As aleady suggested cutting back on the demand will help a ton, but if you haven't installed a DEKA AGM batt, now's the time to think about it.

[Snaggletooth]

The Deka AGM battery and the upgrade stator from Rick at Buckey Performance solved ALL my charging and power issues. Period.

 

The Deka battery that Condor mentioned is far superior to the Odessy that was such a hot item a while back. I've had mine since April this year and it always shows 12.8 or better on the digital meter everytime I hit the key.

 

The upgrade stator will add about 25 or 30% to the charging system.

 

I run a lot on lights on my rear lightbar, extra markers on front and sides and (2) 55w driving lights and I still show around 13.7 to 13.9 going down the road. I drop to about 13.2 stopped with the brake lights on.

 

Mike

Edited December 1, 2009 by Snaggletooth

[Texaskid]

Jack, just got the deka, but have not installed it yet. Been snowing at times and to cold to get outside. Need to go to RS to get resistors. I will also be changing the head light to a PIAA H4 and the driving lights to a PIAA H3. Less draw when I have the running lights on ...35W =75w. Instead of the 55w per light.

[Condor]

Jack, just got the deka, but have not installed it yet. Been snowing at times and to cold to get outside. Need to go to RS to get resistors. I will also be changing the head light to a PIAA H4 and the driving lights to a PIAA H3. Less draw when I have the running lights on ...35W =75w. Instead of the 55w per light.

 

Sorry to hear about the snow Bill. 65 and sunny here....

[raceman62race]

I don't know if these will fin in your fog lights or not but if they will, it should reduce the amp draw as well

http://www.marinebeam.com/41sebereledb.html

[dynodon]

Thanks for the tips. I will look into the new battery and Stator. I have small oval shaped fog lights, and love them, but if I could find some similar LED lights that would solve the problem.

 

the gloves I have have a three position (low, med, high) controller, so I already have that covered.

 

Thanks again.