Buff out scratches??

[Yammer Dan]

The paint on my Tarus is scratched all over. Like someone had washed it and used a scouring pad on it. She was only trying to help and I wasn't home!! They aren't deep but it looks like crap. What do I use to buff these things out?? I have 2000 I think wet paper and polishing compound. And a buffer. Just not sure what I need and how to go about it.

[dynodon]

STOP! Do NOT use sandpaper on the finish except as a last resort.

 

Also, at this point don't use a high speed buffer, although that may be needed.

 

I run a small business selling detailing products, and can give you some help to at least start with.

 

1. Wash the surface with something like liquid Ivory dishwashing soap. I like this for any wash, but some other types like Dawn, will strip your wax. Most "car wash" soaps aren't good enough to get the surface clean. Dry and evaluate: Run your fingernail over the scratches. Can you feel them easily? If so, you may need professional help or a paint job.

 

Can't feel the scratches?, you can probably save the finish without a lot of pain or cost.

 

2. Can't feel the scratches, get a good Polish or glaze. You want something to start with that has very fine abrasive in it to polish the surface by taking off a tiny layer of paint. Do NOT believe that any product out there can get rid of the scratches without some abrasive. Remember that all glasses, microscope lenses, camera and telescope lenses are made with abrasives.

 

You may have something on the shelf. For instance anything called a "cleaner/wax" combo probably has some mild abrasive in it. I don't like these things for waxing because you can either polish the surface, or you can wax it, you can't do both combined as well as you can do them separately.

 

Do NOT at this point use anything called a "compound". These are more like sandpaper and are for last resorts.

 

3. If you use a polish or glaze or that "cleaner/Wax" with a soft sponge or cloth, (dampen the applicator with water first, and squeeze to just damp) and can make it better, then just keep working in small areas till you solve the problem, then top with a good wax.

 

NOTE: I like to use a good thick sponge with polish/cleaners/compound because a thin cloth or thin sponge may let you leave finger marks where your fingertips apply more pressure. Go to a grocery store or Ace Hardware, and get a largeSynthetic sponge that kind of looks like a natural sponge (don't use real sponges, they can have sand or bits of shell in them). These will be about 4" x 6" x 1.5 OR 2" THICK. cut it in half and you have two palm sized sponges. Let the product do the work, don't compress the sponge more than halfway.

 

4. If the polish doesn't have any effect then you may need to go to a more aggressive polish or a mild compound. Always work from the mildest product up to more aggressive ones, because it is hard to get the shine back once you remove it.

 

5. If you CAN feel the scratches, then chances are you won't be able to get them out without going through the clearcoat and then you have a mess and will have to get the car totally refinished, or at least the clear topcoat. But try the more aggressive compound first on a small area and see if the scratches go away, if so, then go back to the polish and try to get the shine back. You may go through the clearcoat and if so, again, you have a problem.

 

Depending on how much the car is worth, or worth to you, you may need to go to a paint/body shop and ask them to buff the car and possibly refinish. But don't let just anyone take a high speed buffer to your finish. NEVER use a high speed buffer on good paint, save it for major problems or new paint that must be buffed.

 

I hope this helps. OH, I am not promoting my business, but if you are interested, I will give you my URL in a PM or email. For other products that are pretty good as far as polish and compounds, go to Meguiars.com. I don't sell these products, but they are pretty good. Also, most auto body& paint supply stores stock what you need.

 

Remember Polish/Glaze is usually interchangeable, very mild abrasive for a high shine, the last step in a detail before waxing. Then you get into compounds, and they range from slightly harsher than polish to something that is equivalent to sandpaper. None of these products provide any protection to the paint, they just work the surface. WAX without any "cleaner or polish" is what you want for the final step when you have the car looking like you want. Properly done, a car won't look like it needs wax, and no wax should really add shine to a properly prepared finish, it will just protect it. Although a lot of places would like you to believe that their wax will make anything look good, but the truth is they almost never work like advertised. Also, no wax can take typical factory paint and make it look like a "show car". That show car shine comes from many layers of paint that is hand sanded and buffed to a perfectly flat finish. Most factory finishes, even on expensive cars has some "orange peel" that will never look like a show car. But it can look very good if you do it right as above.

[gscbertrand]

I used to paint and hated waxes but in this case the final coat should be a good wax as mentioned above.

[Yammer Dan]

Thanks. I was wanting to get that buffer out. Guess I'll wait a little for that.

[LilBeaver]

Dynodon

 

I will add that if you can feel the scratches you are more than likely out of luck. Being that the car is 9-10 years old, in my opinion the couple hundred bucks it would cost to get it professionally buffed and polished would be a waste (based on what it will cost to get it done). For less than what a place would charge you for an honest buff and polish type job, you could get a descent coat of paint that will make that car look much better.

 

If you have a Maaco nearby you, it may be worth going to get an estimate (if you just want to shine 'er up and get rid of the scratches with no other body work you SHOULD be looking at somewhere around $250 for paint services only - which is an enamel paint, hand sanding, masking, and final detailing after painted; the poly-eurethane singlestage with an integrated clear would be the way to go if you are looking to hang onto the car for more than a couple of years... I'll stop here, if you want mroe info just pm me). If you have a 'normal' body shop nearby, and you want to see how fast your jaw could hit the floor, take your car to them for an estimate...

 

**My experience: family owned/family run body shop. I have detailed, painted, done paint prep and body work for a few years.

 

Just my

[Yammer Dan]

I was thinking of getting rid of it and wouldn't get much of a trade with it looking like that. I treated the rust that I posted about cleaned everything up and you can't see any signs of it except for two little bubbles above rear tire. I feel bad about trading it like that but I'm going to take it to a lot that I know would not tell me. With the paint cleaned up the car really looks sharp is loaded and runs great. I just want rid of it.

[bongobobny]

Two words, CLAY BAR...

 

Go to your local Auto Zone and pick it up. You woll find it where the auto waxes are. I've also had good results with Meguier's scratch remover.