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Posted

I usually use a 18 inch wrench and whack it 4 times with a 3 pound rubber hammer. :scratchchin: OF course if I'm really tired I might whack it 5-6 times. On second thought just follow the good advice in the preceding posts.:big-grin-emoticon:

Posted

Good post. I'm getting close to replace my rear tire and the torque spec. is just what I wanted to know soon.

 

110 ft. lbs sure is tight. I think it is a good thing, because that is the only nut that keeps the axle from slipping off.

 

For my cagers, I just normally torque from 75 to 85 ft. lbs.

Posted
Good post. I'm getting close to replace my rear tire and the torque spec. is just what I wanted to know soon.

 

110 ft. lbs sure is tight. I think it is a good thing, because that is the only nut that keeps the axle from slipping off.

 

For a little more piece of mind, the other end of the axle is pinched in the swingarm by another bolt.

 

While your at that rear tire change, be sure to check the tech articles hear about removing the drive hub from the rim and lubricating the drive pins and the needle bearing. Dry drive pins causes a clicking in the back end at low speed and when pushing it back out of the garage.

 

Good Luck, Scooter Bob

Posted
For a little more piece of mind, the other end of the axle is pinched in the swingarm by another bolt.

 

While your at that rear tire change, be sure to check the tech articles hear about removing the drive hub from the rim and lubricating the drive pins and the needle bearing. Dry drive pins causes a clicking in the back end at low speed and when pushing it back out of the garage.

 

Good Luck, Scooter Bob

 

The factory must be reading this forum.. I just changed my rear tire for the first time on my '08 RSTD with 9k miles. There was much grease oozing out of the hub pins. I just wiped it off the outside .

Posted
For a little more piece of mind, the other end of the axle is pinched in the swingarm by another bolt.

 

While your at that rear tire change, be sure to check the tech articles hear about removing the drive hub from the rim and lubricating the drive pins and the needle bearing. Dry drive pins causes a clicking in the back end at low speed and when pushing it back out of the garage.

 

Good Luck, Scooter Bob

 

I am just aware of the 'Splines' on the pumpkin side and engine side to be greased down. I may have to make a closer look at the service manual and find out where and what that drive pin and needle bearing looks like.

Posted
I am just aware of the 'Splines' on the pumpkin side and engine side to be greased down. I may have to make a closer look at the service manual and find out where and what that drive pin and needle bearing looks like.

 

There's a snap ring on the pumpkin side of the wheel. Remove it and the 6 finger drive hub assembly will pull straight out of the rim, and you'll see the pins.

 

There is also a needle bearing in that side of the wheel, but what you'll see is the center race of it. Pull it out ( it has a taper on one end, be sure to put it back in the way it came out) to add wheel bearing grease to the needles.

 

Since this sounds like your first tire change, I hope it's a fairly new bike, and this may be greased well as RandyR pointed out a couple replies back.:)

 

Later, Scooter Bob

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