Current draw of brake circuit

[Grisolm1]

When using either front or rear brake, my lights dim significantly and I loose about 2-3V on my volt meter, at any engine RPM. Turning my pair of 35W driving lights on or off or plugging in my electric riding gear has no similar effect on the electrical system. No problems charging, starting, battery seems strong, run my electric gloves and vest with no issues.

 

Is this normal for a 1st Gen (maybe antidive actuator)? Or should I look for an excess current draw somewhere? Dual brake lights appear to work, look normal.

 

Thanks

 

Wally

[Condor]

My guess would be a corroded ground in your light circut??

 

 

edited...

Or.... a dead short in the hot side of the wiring for the flashers....

 

A big drop in the meter shouldn't happen.

Edited November 22, 2009 by Condor

[MiCarl]

Mine does the same thing. I suspect the anti-dives pull a lot of juice.

[Texaskid]

My 89 does the same thing. I even put led's for the brake light, and it still draws down and the warning light comes on but I have gotten use to it. So I figured that the anti dives are the culprit as that is part of the wiring. Don't know if it would be safe to disconnect them and ride that way, but for now I just go with it.

[Grisolm1]

Thanks guys, looks like it's normal - ride on

[Venturous Randy]

My 83 drops voltage when I put the brakes on and it has the old type antidives that are not electric. This seems to be pretty common.

RandyA

[5bikes]

Most bikes don't have them, and the MK1's braking is greatly improved without them. Disconnect the anti-dives hose, use the single banjo bolt at the caliper.

[Condor]

My 83 drops voltage when I put the brakes on and it has the old type antidives that are not electric. This seems to be pretty common.

RandyA

 

Ok, my '83 doesn't. It used to drop big time until I changed out the battery. So lets think about a few things?? At idle the stator isn't putting out a charge so the batt has to deliver all the amps to drive any circut demands put on the electrical system. And over the years resistence starts to build due to dirty contacts etc. so more amps are needed. Now I can't be sure if messing with the connectors, or the new batt contributed to the problem clearing up, but something I did while swapping out the battery seemed to take care of things, and now it doesn't dip at all. I take that back... While playing a tape and sitting at a stop light it still dips a tad. That tape deck pulls a bunch of amps.

On last years Venture West IV ride down to SLO I played the tape deck quite a bit and noticed that the motor turned over slower when starting as the day progressed. At one time it almost didn't start. That's when I started turning off everything. After a bit things started to return to normal. At the time I was runing a test AGM batt I'd bought off Ebay and it didn't live up to its billing. So I stuffed an Odyssey in when I returned and everything was good again. Since then I've been testing a Deka ETX18L AGM and

I like it better than the Odyssey. Three reasons why. It's the same foot print as the OEM Yuasa.. not so with the Odyssey.., and it's cheaper, and it has a bigger capacity. More bang for the buck.

And that's my story and I'm stickin' to it....

[Texaskid]

Jack, just bought the deka battery. Waiting for it to be delivered. Have your fix for the red light warning waiting to be done. I hope that the radio shack here has what I need. Small store.

I tried to disconect the wires that go to the antidives (electircal) up in the faring behind the head light and when I put on the foot or hand brake, I would blow a fuse. I believe that some how you need to by pass the ad but still have the circuit show that the ad are still in play. Just haven't figured out how to do that yet.

Hope ya'll Have A Good Thanksgiving.

Bill

[Condor]

Jack, just bought the deka battery. Waiting for it to be delivered. Have your fix for the red light warning waiting to be done. I hope that the radio shack here has what I need. Small store.

I tried to disconect the wires that go to the antidives (electircal) up in the faring behind the head light and when I put on the foot or hand brake, I would blow a fuse. I believe that some how you need to by pass the ad but still have the circuit show that the ad are still in play. Just haven't figured out how to do that yet.

Hope ya'll Have A Good Thanksgiving.

Bill

 

You have a good Thanksgiving too Bill. I wouldn't have a clue as to why the fuses blow?? I've never had the problem because I just leave the ADives be on the MkII's, and the '83 has them with the new '86 forks, but I've never tried to hook them up. Rode Cody without them wired and everything was fine. MOF I didn't even think about not having them.

[dingy]

Jack, just bought the deka battery. Waiting for it to be delivered. Have your fix for the red light warning waiting to be done. I hope that the radio shack here has what I need. Small store.

I tried to disconect the wires that go to the antidives (electircal) up in the faring behind the head light and when I put on the foot or hand brake, I would blow a fuse. I believe that some how you need to by pass the ad but still have the circuit show that the ad are still in play. Just haven't figured out how to do that yet.

Hope ya'll Have A Good Thanksgiving.

Bill

 

 

Bill,

 

Here is a link to the simplified wiring diagram for your bike.

 

Look at the right side some what center. You will see the EAND relay.

 

If you unhook the valves there should be no path for voltage out of this relay.

 

Another option is to locate the EAND relay and pull it out of the socket. That should totally disconnect the anti dive valves.

 

You would be able to locate this relay by repeatedly pressing front brake lever with key on and determining by feeling which relay is actuating.

 

 

 

http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/86-89%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Simplified%20Circuit%20Diagram%20Rev%20D.pdf

 

Gary

[Texaskid]

Thanks Gary, will try this after I get the new battery. And will let you know what happens.