RSV lowering - questions for those that have done it

[atlm]

Update.

The front end is now lowered 1". I need to take it out for a ride to see how it handles.

 

 

Back end:

The stock dogbones measure 175mm center to center, and are 6mm (~1/4") thick.

The Baron's links are 7/16" longer for a 1.5" drop. (11.1mm)

The leveling links post says 1/4" shorter for 1" rise. (6.1mm)

For 1/2" drop, that comes to 3.7mm (using Barons) or 3mm (using leveling links).

So, I wanted links with 12mm holes, with 178mm or 178.7mm center to center spacing, 6mm thick.

 

I couldn't find any specs on the links being sold on eBay, or anywhere else. They only list the bikes they're supposed to fit. So, that turned out not to be an option.

 

I bought a tabletop drill press and a large set of drill bits from Harbor Freight, and a piece of 1 1/4" x 1/4" x 36" steel from Home Depot last week, and made some links. Time consuming, but not complicated. I started with a punch, then a small pilot hole, then enlarged the hole a little at a time with 5 different bits. To keep the holes in each pair of links aligned, I used 3 sets of vice grips: one in the center and one on the end not being drilled. When drilling was done on one side, I clamped that side, and then unclamped the other side so nothing would move. Once done, I rounded the corners.

 

4 hours later I had 2 sets of longer dogbones. One set has holes at 177.8mm. The other set has holes at 179mm. Those should provide just under and just over 1/2" drop.

 

Before installing the links, I'm going to ride it with just the front end lowered, since that's supposed to level the bike, and it might be great just like that. I'll post with updates.

[atlm]

I just noticed that I never posted an update to this thread, so I thought maybe I should.

 

After lowering the front 1", the difference in handling was amazing. I could see why so many people here recommended leveling the bike. The bike felt about 300lb lighter, and much more nimble.

 

It also gave me more sure-footedness in stop and go situations, a lot more than I expected for a 1/2" change (in the middle of the bike).

 

Since I was scraping floorboards in the twisties before the change, I decided not to go any further by lowering the rear. So, the 2 sets of rear lowering links that I bought a drill press for, and spent all the time making, never got used.

 

[Rickster]

How can you tell if the front has been lowered, I have the barons rear kit in mine bought new that way from a dealer. I was wondering about putting it back to stock and lowering the front along with the butler seat mod if it (28" inseam) would put my feet on the ground? Thanks

[Rickster]

Does the Butler seat mod put you closer to the ground?

[cecdoo]

Yes if you tell Rick you are inseam challenged, he will take foam out of the seat area and narrow the front of the seat a bit, I had it done, it is well worth it. Also find boots with the thickest sole and heel and if you can get used to just putting your left foot down at most stops you will be good to go. Probably lowers seat ht 1-1.5in. also running little to no air in the rear shock will get you lower to the ground. I am a towering 5'5":rasberry: Craig

[Rickster]

Thanks Craig I plan on talking to Rick at Freebird's this summer. I would like to put the bike bace to it's stock height but you have to be comfortable with it also. Thanks again

[atlm]

How can you tell if the front has been lowered, I have the barons rear kit in mine bought new that way from a dealer.

 

If the top of your fork tubes are flush with the top of the triple clamp, that's stock. If the top of the fork tubes are higher than the top of the triple clamp, the front end has been lowered.