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Posted

I couldn't find anything on this in the searches I did....so here goes.

 

I have noticed at slow speeds where my steering lightly locks. It is in the straight position and is a noticeable "slot" where it requires more pressure to turn it. It is getting to be annoying at slow speeds. Took a weekend trip and it seemed worse this past weekend.

I have tightened the steering head a while back and the bounce when it's in the air is still on the loose side.

 

Any info would be appreciated.

Posted

1. It is too tight.

2. The lower bearing is rusted and needs to replaced.

3. Lack of lubrication has caused a wear spot in the races which results in a notched feeling when you turn the handlebars. Bearings need to be replace.

 

I would plan on replacing the bearings.

Posted
1. It is too tight.

2. The lower bearing is rusted and needs to replaced.

3. Lack of lubrication has caused a wear spot in the races which results in a notched feeling when you turn the handlebars. Bearings need to be replace.

 

I would plan on replacing the bearings.

All drink to that,,, especially #3. loose bearings will cause a bad wear spot and do exactly as you discribe.

Posted
I couldn't find anything on this in the searches I did....so here goes.

 

I have noticed at slow speeds where my steering lightly locks. It is in the straight position and is a noticeable "slot" where it requires more pressure to turn it. It is getting to be annoying at slow speeds. Took a weekend trip and it seemed worse this past weekend.

I have tightened the steering head a while back and the bounce when it's in the air is still on the loose side.

 

Any info would be appreciated.

 

If you're able to put the bike up on jack so that the bike is level and front end not touching the ground, you can try the 'bounce' test on your steering..

 

Ensuring there is no binding of the cables, place the handle bar straight and then give one side a stiff push to the side. The bar should swing out to the far stop, bounce and then settle down against the stop.. If the bar bounces back and forth a lot.. then your neck is loose.. if the bar stops in the middle of travel, then this may indicate a flat spot in your bearing set up and should be attended to when you get the chance.. if not sooner..

 

The way I read your symptoms would seem that you need to replace your bearings..

Posted

Are you sure you don't have a front tire problem.......flat spot from lots of highway miles or air pressure? With front tire center wear it feels like you start to turn then have to steer harder to get over lip........just some thoughts:Venture: Jerry K

Posted
Tire seems fine. I will take a closer look.

Is bearings the big messy and rotten job I have heard about?

Ouch.....not liking the sounds of this.:Avatars_Gee_George:

 

Yes, it is THAT shyte job no one wants to do.. =(

 

I had my neck tightened and the tech did the bearing test, found them smooth.. but that was last year.. gonna have to check it again this winter..

Posted
Tire seems fine. I will take a closer look.

Is bearings the big messy and rotten job I have heard about?

Ouch.....not liking the sounds of this.:Avatars_Gee_George:

 

Yes, it's not a funny Job but it really pays out immediately. Just get it done and be safe.

 

Don't buy cheap Aftermarket Bearings. Get them from Yammi or, at least, buy high Quality Brand Bearings from Timken, FAG, INA or KOYO. Industrial Numbers are 32005x and 32006X. But if you go with industrial Bearings, you need to save the rubber Seal beneath the lower Bearing for reuse.

 

If you want to go the extra Mile, grind the Area of the Bearing Seats a little bigger and glue the outer Races in Place with Loctite 648. This will give you a perfect round shaped outer Race and a perfectly adjustable Steering. The stock Seats are NOT ROUND, if you hammer the new Races in Place, the Races will be slightly bent by the Seats and this will cause the Bearings to fail premature again.

Posted

Great info and many thanks to you all.

Heres my big question...a week from Thursday we have planned a long awaited trip with my brother and son to west Texas.

Does anyone see a "real" concern with taking the bike on this trip? I don't see being able to get the work done by then.:bawling:

Posted
Yamaha wants $450-$550 for job...they even say they can have it done in time for my trip.....hmmm, this is getting interesting....

 

Yeah it's a pain in the assets to get that job done but in the end it will be worth it..

 

I'm almost tempted to have mine sent to the shop soon before real winter sets in..

 

That way, the bike WILL be ready to rock and roll next spring.. and it won't be an ignorant thing to deal with..

 

MY problem is that we have 2 dealerships in town and I'm sorta not keen on other of them ripping the bike apart for some reason.. dunno why but ergh.. BUT.. ya know how it is.. suck it up buttercup..

Posted

Yeh, I am gonna suck it up and pay the $'s....like you, I don't have a lot of faith in the dealerships.....they swore they will have the bike ready for my trip. Maybe they'll give me a loaner if they don't:icon_smile_question

Posted
96.72462% chance your steering head bearings are shot.

Goose

 

Doing a lot of wheelies will put a flat spot on your steering head bearings :smile5:

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
1. It is too tight.

2. The lower bearing is rusted and needs to replaced.

3. Lack of lubrication has caused a wear spot in the races which results in a notched feeling when you turn the handlebars. Bearings need to be replace.

 

I would plan on replacing the bearings.

 

In reference to your #2 above, I have occasionally seen some "rusty looking" stains on the little plastic deflector (not sure what purpose it serves other than to collect scary looking rusty stains) below the steering head on my 03 Midnight. Do ya suppose this is what I think it is........and that I, too, am destined to performing the dismantling job from hell to pop in replacement triple-clamp bearings?

 

Anyone else seen these (seemingly) tell-tale rust droplets following rain or wash-days?

 

Mike

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