1986-1993 Clutch Side Electrical Switch Disassembly and Cleaning

[dingy]

I am in the process of installing cruise control on my 1983 Venture Standard.

I have purchased almost all of the items I need to do this upgrade from ebay.

Prior to installing the parts, I will be disassembling the ones that I can and cleaning them.

I have made the following write up of the process of cleaning the clutch side switch housing that came off of a 1988 Venture. The pictures show the switch completely removed from the bike.

 

It is fairly lengthy, 47 pictures, but thorough.

 

I would recommend removing switch from bike if you perform this cleaning. There are a number of small springs and ball detents that are very easy to lose unless you have a large well lit working area.

 

If you are unable to open the PDF file, PM me with your email address and I will send it to you.

 

I have detailed the throttle side switch in another thread.

 

Picture below is of the switch detailed in this PDF file.

Edited November 3, 2009 by dingy

[Venturous Randy]

Very good writeup dingy.

I see that you have the type signal light cancel where you push down on the lever. I changed my 83 to the type I push in to cancel early. The problem I am having is the system not automatically cancelling correctly. It will cut off when it is supposed to, but later on when stopped, it will start blinking again. I can not understand why it only does it when I go back to idle. I have got to the point that I am trying to manually cancel it after I turn.

If there is anyone that has the push in type, I have a question. After you use the signal and it stops blinking automatically, if you push the button in a few minutes later, does it "click" it back to center, like it would if you cancel early? That is what mine is doing.

This is very frustrating as I can be at an intersection and not turning and my signal lights will start blinking from the last time I used them if I did not cancel them manually.

RandyA

[dingy]

Randy

 

The switch I detailed for cleaning is the push in type.

 

It is from a 1988 venture.

 

What may be happening to yours is the 'U' shaped contact might be making contact with the thumb lever after the signals have self-canceled.

 

Two things happen inside the switch that activate the turn signals.

 

Going to describe assuming right turn.

 

One is turn signal lever slides a three position slider switch to the left side (opposite the turn requested) and closes the contact from the Dg wire and the Br/W wire. This slider switch is not spring returned to center. This contact remains made after releasing the turn signal lever. Simultaneously the pin on the thumb lever also contacts the 'U' shaped contact and make a momentary contact between the Y/R wire and ground. These two actions tell the flasher unit to operate right.

 

First picture below shows the slider contact in housing, it is white at bottom center.

 

Second picture shows the 'U' shaped contact installed

 

Third picture shows the bottom of turn signal lever, the two pins at top of photo make contact with the 'U' shaped contact when lever is moved to right or left.

 

When the system times out (self cancels) the slider contact is still in the left position. The action of pressing in on the turn signal lever is what re-centers this contact. If unit self cancels it remains in last selected position.

 

If rider requests another right turn after unit has self canceled the turn signal lever is again moved to right but the only thing to happen at this point is the 'U' shaped contact and turn signal lever pin make a momentary contact between the Y/R wire and ground and the signals flash.

 

What could be happening in your case is this 'U' shaped contact could be inadvertently touching the turn signal lever when not requested. This completes the path to ground and reactivates the signals. If your signals do not activate after you have canceled them by pressing in on lever this is very likely. Also anywhere this circuit reaches ground would cause flashers to operate. So a pinched wire in path back to canceling unit on Y/R wire should be checked.

 

Circuit schematics are located at link below.

 

[ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42358]1st Gen Wiring Schematics 1983 - 1993 - VentureRider.Org[/ame]

 

 

Gary

[Venturous Randy]

Thanks Gary, as it helps me to know that it is correct to stay in the last position used. I thought I had it fixed when I found a wire that was grounding some, but after riding awhile, it started doing it again. I guess this is going to be one of my winter projects.

RandyA

[dna9656]

My 83.5 has a switch that's a little different; my switch

has the rotator choke and not the lever action you describe.

my choke goes around the handle bar...

I know they should be simular but a guide for this style

would be GREAT too. Do you have one you could post or send to me please?

Also my choke cable seems to have some slop (too long) in it; the sheath (cover) moves away from the switch housing when opening the choke. I tired to see if there was an adjusting turnbuckle(?) on the carbs but the cable leads to the center of the carbs and is difficult to see with these *&^%^$#@ bi-focals.

I have 2 large PLASTIC disks 1 looks like a big washer, I am pretty sure it goes between the handlebar grip and the switch, the other has 4 notches on the inner annulus (circle) I have NO idea where this goes. Got some wisdom to dispense?

Edited May 18, 2014 by dna9656