Cruise Control Question

[Evan]

On my last two long rides, I had a cruise control problem that seemed to get worse (more frequent and consistent) as I rode. It got so that after about 5-10 minutes on cruise, it would pop out again. It would do this at different cruise speeds and while it initially seemed worse under load (on hills), it got so that it acted similar when not under load. It acted like I had cancelled the cruise setting. The on indicator light went off and the resume light came on when this happened as if I had hit the cancel switch. I could resume cruise but the problem would reoccur again after some more miles.

I read with interest dingy's post yesterday on cleaning the switch which I understand could help. However, could this be just a vacuum leak that gets worse depending on load etc. and if so, is there a most likely location for that leak?

[Blue Giant]

Check the adjustment on your brake light switches and particularly your clutch switch. Try setting the cruise and gently tap each handle or lever, might narrow down where the problem is!

 

HTH

 

Paul

[camos]

I've never had to deal with this but from reading on here it appears to be quite common for a worn clutch lever pivot to deactivate the cruise control.

[dynodon]

How is the throttle? Is it hard to turn? when I had a sticky cable, it would cause the cruise to pop off on uphills.

 

Like others have said, a worn bushing in the clutch or brake can cause the lever to flop and turn off the cruise on a bump.

[chabicheka]

hi evan...

 

if you scroll down this page, you will see other threads where this problem was discussed. might find some clues there. good luck.

 

abdul.

[dingy]

Evan,

 

Attached is PDF file with a large red arrow on right side showing where to connect a volt meter at to check for steady voltage on cruise circuit.

 

As Blue Giant and Camos said, play in switches at brake & clutch levers can cause this problem. This is the point in the circuit to see if that is what is happening. At the point shown circuit is also running through Cancel switch.

 

Connect positive lead of meter at arrow & negative lead to ground. I have used a paper clip slid into back of wire connector to get a connection to wire being checked.

 

The two places you can connect to this wire are behind head light in cable coming from throttle side switch or at the cruise vacuum pump. Both of these connectors are shown in the PDF file highlighted in red box at top of page. Wire you need to check is hilighted in red. It is a Black with red tracer out of throttle side switch or a Black with blue tracer at vacuum pump.

 

You will be checking the voltage on the circuit just after it goes through the switches.

 

After hooking meter up and turning the key to the On position, wiggle the levers and see if you get any voltage fluctuations. Also check cancel switch.

Edited November 14, 2009 by dingy