Fuel Stabilizer - Winter storeage

[thecount]

So, with the cold and bad weather coming soon here in Ontario, I need a recommendation for a fuel stabilizer for the bike. Not storing at the same place as last year. They did this work for me, SO I will be storeage prep and store this year in a family member's garage.

 

Suggestions welcomed.

Thanks

[bongobobny]

You're awake already? Me too!

 

Just head on down to Canadian Tire and buy a can of Stabul and follow the directions on the can. Also fill the tank with premium gas. Over time gas deteriorates, so using premium will give you gas that is still good next spring.

 

Other people will probably suggest adding some seafoam to a tank of premium gas and run for about 10 minutes or so to get some in the carbs. It's also a good idea, if possible, to run the engine for about 5 - 10 minutes every couple of weeks or so...

[Kregerdoodle]

Winter storeage:confused24::confused07: Whats that??????????

[TIMEtoRIDE]

If Canada is cursed with alcohol in the gas, StaBil now sells an alcohol formula.

It would be best to get fuel from a marina with NO alcohol. Fill 'er up !

 

Run the engine after the oil change. No real point in doing the oil change if you don't circulate the old, acidic oil out of the bearings, right ??

 

Since even stabilized gas will evaporate, draining carbs for long term storage makes sense. Filling the carbs with pure lamp oil would keep moisture from condensing inside.

 

"fog" the engine running until it dies to coat cylinders, valves, inside of exhaust. If you squirt too much oil in the cylinders you could blow a head gasket.

You could cork the 1 st Gen's mufflers.

 

Bike on centerstand, decrease tire pressure to 20 LBS. Remove battery, store on a tender indoors. Spray the bike down with furniture polish or your favorite silicone spray, cover with a bed sheet, then a breathable cover.

Some people store their seats indoors claiming the freezing degrades the material, but what do I know- - I'm in Florida !!

[MiCarl]

Sta-Bil in a full tank of gasoline and then run it for a bit to get treated gas into the carburetors. I don't think premium gas offers any benefit. In fact, ethanol is a cheap way to boost the octane rating so premium might be more likely to have ethanol (bad).

 

If you're really going to store it do as Time says, although I doubt you'll be able to kill it by spraying fogging oil down the carburetor throats. I prefer to put a shot in each plug hole and crank the engine over (plugs out and grounded) a couple turns to spread it and get excess out of the cylinder.

 

Don't start it unless you're going to ride it. Idling for a few minutes will do more harm than good.

 

Now, I ride pretty much every half way decent day so I just do the sta-bil and keep the motorcycle plugged to the battery tender. That way I can unplug and go. Top off the tank at the end of the ride and add sta-bil to keep treated. I keep sta-bil in all my seasonal stuff until the robins come back.

[friesman]

I was wondering why everyone seems to be using stabil when seafoam has stabilizer in it. i always put seafoam in the tank for storage just to keep varnish buildup to a minimum anyway so I figure i dont need stabil. I didnt have an issue last year when my bike sat from August until April with a full tank.

 

Brian

[thecount]

You're awake already? Me too!

 

Just head on down to Canadian Tire and buy a can of Stabul and follow the directions on the can. Also fill the tank with premium gas. Over time gas deteriorates, so using premium will give you gas that is still good next spring.

 

Other people will probably suggest adding some seafoam to a tank of premium gas and run for about 10 minutes or so to get some in the carbs. It's also a good idea, if possible, to run the engine for about 5 - 10 minutes every couple of weeks or so...

 

Hey Bob

just because the clock changes, doesn't change the "body" clock! Get more work done before 8:30 am then some people in an entire day!

Happy CLOCK change Day!

 

Thanks for the advise on the storeage.

[V7Goose]

It's also a good idea, if possible, to run the engine for about 5 - 10 minutes every couple of weeks or so...

This is absolutely the WORST thing you can do to ANY engine! DO NOT DO IT!

 

Running the bike cold creates a LOT of condensation (that is why water drips from your tail pipe for a while after starting). Even the little amount that blows by the rings instantly condenses on the cold metal of the engine and stays inside - the more worn your engine is, the greater this problem becomes. This moisture combines with combustion byproducts to create acids and other nasty things that eat away at your engine. Once an engine reaches full operating temperature (and it takes a lot longer for the oil to get there than the coolant), most of that moisture is driven out by the heat and gets sucked through the carbs through the crankcase vent hose., but it is gonna take actual riding for 20 minutes or more to warm up the engine even close to what it needs - just idling ain't gonna do it.

 

Other suggestions made in this thread are good - any fuel stabilizer is probably fine - and Seafoam is a stabilizer (read the can), so no need to use it AND another product. Do treat the tank and then run it for 10 miles or so to completely replace the fuel in the float bowls with treated fuel. Fogging the engine is always a good idea for extended storage, though few people seem to do it. It is a good idea to take the weight off the tires; although, that is not always practical for a motorcycle. Absolutely put a battery charger on the battery (a real charger, not a tender) when you first park it to get the battery up to full charge, then either use a tender while it sits or re-charge it at least once a month.

 

Running the bike after the oil change is an important step, but go back to the first subject - do NOT just run it for a minute or two - VERY VERY important for that last engine run before storage to get the bike all the way up to full temperature, INLUDING the oil. Those of you with an oil pressure gauge can tell when the oil is up to full temperature by when the idle pressure falls below 10 lbs, and that is a long time after the engine coolant reaches normal operating temp of about 210 degrees F.

Goose

[KiteSquid]

Be sure to get the Marine formula of STA-BIL

 

from their web site HERE

Marine Formula STA-BIL Ethanol Treatment & Performance Improver contains DOUBLE the corrosion preventers and more than FOUR TIMES the fuel system cleaner than in Regular STA-BIL to prevent against corrosion and deposit build up in Marine Engines. Use AT EVERY FILL UP to protect your boat or other marine equipment from the damaging effects of Ethanol in the marine environment.

 

 

it is blue in color

 

 

http://www.goldeagle.com/assets/product/Marine-Formula-STA-BIL_8oz_Ethanol_Treatment_22239.jpg

 

 

BTW, locally I found it at Tractor Supply store

Edited November 2, 2009 by KiteSquid

[1 Canuck]

Winter storeage:confused24::confused07: Whats that??????????

 

Now that's below the belt, and nasty!

That reminds me, I gotta check out the snowblower next!

[starkruzen]

http://wpec-radar.freedombroadcasting.net/7day.jpg