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Posted (edited)

(The information in this post would serve well to be included in the tech library with the other coolant change information.)

 

I changed my coolant the other day for the first time. After reading all of the very helpful posts and the Tech Library, the only thing I noticed was that there were no tips on how to do it without creating a mess, especially when draining the cylinders. Sooo, I spent more time visualizing and figuring than I did actually draining the coolant, but I did come up with a method that resulted in no mess on the engine or floor. This will make my, and hopefully your, next coolant change a little easier and less messy.

 

As well, I found that at 2 inch long screw of the proper thread size was easier to use for pulling the cylinder side drain plugs than using the cumbersome spark plug.

 

I didn't repeat the steps on how to get to the radiator cap and how to remove of the side covers, as this information is already well documented in the tech library.

 

PHOTO 1 - Side Cover Drain Bottle

Get a 16 oz soda bottle, the type that is smooth sided because it flexes better. Cut an angle across the bottom end and cut out room for your fingers to pull the plug on the top side. You can do a few test fits with the bottle to get the angle right. You will need the cap screwed onto the bottle when you use it.

 

PHOTO 2 - Draining Radiator

Put the bike on a jack and raise it high enough to clear a 5 gallon bucket. Remove the radiator cap, then the radiator drain plug and the radiator will speed dump with no mess.

 

- - - - - - -

 

Next, you will want to grab a large bath towel (preferably not the one your wife just bought at Kohl's). While I only dripped about 1 ounce of coolant onto the towel while draining cylinder 3, I used under the drain bottle on each cylinder to catch any dribbles (and this was the first time I tried this method and didn't know how well it would work).

 

Photos 3-5 illustrate how I placed the towel and the drain bottle for cylinders 1, 3, and 4. (I saved cylinder 2 for last, as it involves making a chute out of packing tape to flow the coolant to the bottle.) The drain plugs are in place in all of the pics, as I took the pics after I drained each cylinder. The coolant in the drain bottle is from the respective cylinder pictured.

 

 

PHOTO 3 - Draining Cylinder 1

PHOTO 4 - Draining Cylinder 3

PHOTO 5 - Draining Cylinder 4

 

- - - - - - - -

 

The last step is draining cylinder 2. The location of the drain plug for cylinder 2 does not allow for the angling of the drain bottle. I saved this for last because it took a little construction of a chute made of packing tape. Tear three strips of packing tape long enough to go from the side of the cylinder to about 2 or 3 inches past the side of the chrome engine cover. One strip will be the middle strip with the sticky side down. The other two strips get folded in half lengthwise over the left and right third of the middle strip. Then abut one end of this tape contraption to the side of the cylinder and press the center portion down so it sticks to the top of the engine and along the groove of the chrome engine cover. You now have a little rain gutter to carry the coolant to your drain bottle.

 

PHOTO 6 - Cylinder 2 tape chute

PHOTO 7 - Cylinder 2 tape chute viewed from side angle

PHOTO 8 - Cylinder 2 draining

 

- - - - - - - - - -

 

My coolant drain amounts were as follows:

 

Radiator - 80 oz (2.5 qts)

Cylinder 1 - 5 oz

Cylinder 2 - 2 oz

Cylinder 3 - 2 oz (this accounts for the 1 oz that spilled into towel)

Cylinder 4 - 3 oz

Reservoir - 10 oz (was at the "Full" line)

Total - 102 oz (3.19 qts)

 

I didn't drain the water pump. Every post I've read and folks I have spoken with said they only got 4 oz, at most, out of the water pump and the headache of getting to the plug outweighed the amount of fluid I would get out.

 

Hope this has been of some help to others out there.

 

Phoenix

 

(If anyone would like higher resolution pics, let me know and I can email the high resolution originals to you.)

Edited by Phoenix
Posted

Just out of curiosity, and mostly because I would be one of those folks out there too chicken to attempt this flush (you guys make it look simple but man, I dunno lol)

 

I believe the fluid ought to be changed out on a regular basis to keep it fresh like anything else on the bike but to full flush it out is time consuming..

 

On the cheap and 'easy' side of things, could a person not simply drain from the easy ports (reservoir for example) and pour in new fluid.. Admittedly not as good as a full flush mind you but the addition of any amount of fresh clean fluid over a period of time is better than none at all..

 

Is the new fluid a premix fluid or something you have to determine a ratio and mix?

 

Cheers

Posted

Thanks for the tips. :322: I am now thinking of changing the coolant next Friday. I do have a couple of old bath towels in the garage that will come in handy. As far as the water pump drain plug is concerned, I think I will also bypass that step assuming that fresh coolant will have to pass through that pump constantly while the engine is running.

 

I was just at Walmart the other day and I am thinking of getting the premixed 50/50 Prestone for the bike.

Posted
Just out of curiosity, and mostly because I would be one of those folks out there too chicken to attempt this flush (you guys make it look simple but man, I dunno lol)

 

I believe the fluid ought to be changed out on a regular basis to keep it fresh like anything else on the bike but to full flush it out is time consuming..

 

On the cheap and 'easy' side of things, could a person not simply drain from the easy ports (reservoir for example) and pour in new fluid.. Admittedly not as good as a full flush mind you but the addition of any amount of fresh clean fluid over a period of time is better than none at all..

 

Is the new fluid a premix fluid or something you have to determine a ratio and mix?

 

Cheers

 

My coolant level has been at the "Full" line on my reservoir since the day I bought the bike, so I don't think you can periodically add coolant to the system and accomplish any equivalent benefit to draining and refilling.

 

I used the Honda 50/50 premix.

 

This was my first time and including taking the pictures, it probably took me an hour. It really is not that involved. The simple non-detailed steps are:

 

1. Remove rider's seat

2. Remove tank

3. Remove front lowers

4. Remove cylinder side covers

5. Remove radiator cap

6. Remove radiator drain plug (water will flow FAST)

7. Replace radiator drain plug (so you don't forget later)

8. Drain each cylinder and replace drain plugs individually

9. Replace side covers (so you don't accidentally do step 14 with covers off)

10. Remove and dump reservoir (or siphon out)

11. Reinstall reservoir (remember to hook-up hoses)

12. Refill radiator

13. Refill reservoir to "Full" line

14. Run bike for about 2 minutes (enough fuel in carbs to do this)

15. CAREFULLY remove radiator cap and top off radiator

16. Reinstall tank, seat, and lowers

17. Take for a short ride (to build pressure in system) and check for leaks

18. After engine cools, recheck coolant level (I like to check it at radiator after this first run, however, it does mean pulling the tank. Some just check it at the reservoir.)

 

It really is pretty easy and considering you only do it once every two years, an hour is not really that much time. When I do stuff like this, I usually set a day aside and do several maintenance tasks while I have the bike up on the jack and parts off.

 

Hope this is helpful in making your decision on changing your coolant.

 

Phoenix

Posted
My coolant level has been at the "Full" line on my reservoir since the day I bought the bike, so I don't think you can periodically add coolant to the system and accomplish any equivalent benefit to draining and refilling.

 

I used the Honda 50/50 premix.

 

This was my first time and including taking the pictures, it probably took me an hour. It really is not that involved. The simple non-detailed steps are:

 

1. Remove rider's seat

2. Remove tank

3. Remove front lowers

4. Remove cylinder side covers

5. Remove radiator cap

6. Remove radiator drain plug (water will flow FAST)

7. Replace radiator drain plug (so you don't forget later)

8. Drain each cylinder and replace drain plugs individually

9. Replace side covers (so you don't accidentally do step 14 with covers off)

10. Remove and dump reservoir (or siphon out)

11. Reinstall reservoir (remember to hook-up hoses)

12. Refill radiator

13. Refill reservoir to "Full" line

14. Run bike for about 2 minutes (enough fuel in carbs to do this)

15. CAREFULLY remove radiator cap and top off radiator

16. Reinstall tank, seat, and lowers

17. Take for a short ride (to build pressure in system) and check for leaks

18. After engine cools, recheck coolant level (I like to check it at radiator after this first run, however, it does mean pulling the tank. Some just check it at the reservoir.)

 

It really is pretty easy and considering you only do it once every two years, an hour is not really that much time. When I do stuff like this, I usually set a day aside and do several maintenance tasks while I have the bike up on the jack and parts off.

 

Hope this is helpful in making your decision on changing your coolant.

 

Phoenix

 

Well Ok.. you DO make it sound simple enough.. I read all the great articles on how to do it and for some reason, they seem intimidating.. well written and well explained don't get me wrong.. but never having seen it done before first hand, anything is 'scary' at first.. I did manage to install my own heavy duty clutch all by myself.. ;) I think I can attempt this coolant change as well... 2006 with 53000 miles on it.. I think it's due..

 

Thanks for the nudge of confidence and Cheers, much appreciated..

Posted
never having seen it done before first hand, anything is 'scary' at first.. I did manage to install my own heavy duty clutch all by myself.. ;)

 

I know exactly what you mean. Whenever I do one of these jobs for the first time, I read up on the posts and tech articles that other members have written. Then I look over the bike and get it all figured in my head before I start. Every time I have done a new job on the bike, I always say "that wasn't hard" when I finish. It is the fear of the unknown. Once you get it behind you, it is a breeze the next time. It is all about your comfort zone, which is expanded each time you do something new/different.

 

I have not done the SR-2 clutch conversion yet. but I have all the parts. Was waiting until I note some slippage before I attempt that job.

 

Ride safe,

Phoenix

Posted

I've done coolant changes on cars and even replaced two water pumps and a radiator once in my lifetime. :grandpa: After reading more about changing the coolant in this forum, I think it should take me at least 2 hours from start to finish (taking my time). I just have to make sure about the plug that I pull off on the side of each jug. :icon_smile_question

Posted
I know exactly what you mean. Whenever I do one of these jobs for the first time, I read up on the posts and tech articles that other members have written. Then I look over the bike and get it all figured in my head before I start. Every time I have done a new job on the bike, I always say "that wasn't hard" when I finish. It is the fear of the unknown. Once you get it behind you, it is a breeze the next time. It is all about your comfort zone, which is expanded each time you do something new/different.

 

I have not done the SR-2 clutch conversion yet. but I have all the parts. Was waiting until I note some slippage before I attempt that job.

 

Ride safe,

Phoenix

 

The clutch thing was also intimidating at first but once you're in there its like lego blocks, I think the big fear is that once to you crack it open you have that niggly feeling that if you pooch it up, you lost your bike... I had that happen once.. prolly explains why I am gun shy at times.. I have a few odds and shods waiting to be done on the bike but I won't start them until it's deep winter and the bike is inside the garage.. if anything goes wrong, I have time on my hands to repair it.. caution guys I is..

Posted

I see not mention of pipe thread tape on the cylinder drain plug. in Louisiana, i use pipe tape on any liquid service thread, even auto oil drain plug.

 

Is my practice an extra layer of insurance of no leaks?

would anyone consider this on their scooter?

 

dale in La

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

is this the Prestone everyone is using?http://ozbo.com/images/T/87167CL.JPG

 

 

or this one?http://www.southbayriders.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=270189&d=1253549924

 

I am PARANOID about using the wrong type! I have an 04 RSV

 

 

SORRY ABOUT THE SIZE THING!!!

 

 

Ben

Posted
I know exactly what you mean. Whenever I do one of these jobs for the first time, I read up on the posts and tech articles that other members have written. Then I look over the bike and get it all figured in my head before I start. Every time I have done a new job on the bike, I always say "that wasn't hard" when I finish. It is the fear of the unknown. Once you get it behind you, it is a breeze the next time. It is all about your comfort zone, which is expanded each time you do something new/different.

 

I have not done the SR-2 clutch conversion yet. but I have all the parts. Was waiting until I note some slippage before I attempt that job.

 

Ride safe,

Phoenix

hey phoenix,

You got that clutch in yet? If not Ride on down To fredericksburg and I'll help you put that puppy in. i've done a couple of them. Just give a a shout. number is in my profile.

Posted

I honestly think that either of those products would be just fine. I personally use the 50/50 Honda mix that I pick up at the local Honda motorcycle dealership. So no, I have not used either of those but don't think that there would be a problem.

Posted

Thanks Freebird, my Honda shop is useless and I wouldn't spend a dime at the nearest Yamaha one (bad I know)! I figured either would work as neither has silicate in it. Thanks

 

 

Ben

Posted
Dang Duke, I thought you had answered my question. Have you used either product I listed?

 

Ben

I was looking for some cool pictures to post:rasberry::rotf: I use the 50/50 mix cuz i'm lazy. I went to auto zone and picked some up. I didn't realize that there was M/C specific coolant:confused07:

Posted

I picked up myself 2 Gallons of 50/50 Anti-Freeze Coolant from Advance Auto ON SALE for $5.99/Gallon. Grab them while supplies last. I think even though it is not motorcycle specific, it is safe to use on my Venture. Any thoughts on this?

 

This coming Friday, may be the big day to drain the radiator and unplug those small plugs from each cylinder and clean the coolant reservoir.

Posted

The motorcycle specific coolant is a new product. I haven't seen it in stores but I'm sure I could find it if I looked real hard. I got two bottles of the 50/50 Yellow Bottle, so I am gonna go with that. Got a buddy doing it for me on Sunday for a steak and a cold one!

 

Ben

Posted

I went ahead and drained the radiator and removed & cleaned the reservoir. Topped off the radiator and filled the reservoir up to the Full line. After running the bike for about 4 to 5 minutes, I released pressure on the radiator cap and noticed that some coolant back flowed into the reservoir tank. Now the reservoir tank is beyond the full mark.

 

Should I leave this reservoir tank beyond the full mark and then ride for about 10 minutes around the neighborhood and see if it returns to the Full level? Right now I could not ride, since it is raining and it is Halloween night. I may ride the bike tomorrow in the am.

 

Your thoughts please?

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

i changed mine today. thanks to the tips and directions i found on here, it took 1 hr 20 mins from begining to end. not too bad for a mechanically uninclined guy. okay, so i had a little bit of help from a buddy!

 

thanks again for the advice!

 

Ben

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