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Posted

Noticed a funny odor coming from my bike...I discovered fuel leaking from the over flow tube from the right rear carb...

 

Anybody have any experience dealing with this type of problem? (and how to fix)

 

Thanks

Posted

Try removing the screw from the bowl, and letting it drain...with the engine off. Then, spray carb cleaner up in the hole that the screw came out of. You seem to have either a float sticking, or a piece of trash in the needle/seat area. Maybe this procedure will clean out the trash, and the problem will go away. Good luck!

Posted
Noticed a funny odor coming from my bike...I discovered fuel leaking from the over flow tube from the right rear carb...

 

Anybody have any experience dealing with this type of problem? (and how to fix)

 

Thanks

 

Sounds like a sticking float, or apiece of crud on the needle valve seat. Try tapping the carb with the handle of a screwdriver. I have done this once, to the slider cover & it had stopped.

Posted

just had this happen to me and took out the drain screw,let it all drain out and then turned the key on (I did not start the bike) to let the fuel pump flush out whatever was in there then reinstalled. The bike even runs better now. I also added an entire can of seafoaminto a full tank and drove it till it was almost empty. Then ran a second can of seafoam throughout 4 tanks of fuel. Good luck.

 

 

 

David

Posted

That's what it must have been, a sticking float..As recommended I removed the drain plug and turned the key on to flush the bowl..I replaced the drain plug and started the bike..No leak

 

Thanks all for your help

Posted
I also added an entire can of seafoaminto a full tank and drove it till it was almost empty. Then ran a second can of seafoam throughout 4 tanks of fuel. Good luck.
Rather than driving through a can of Seafoam better to use an equal amount of camp fuel which is straight naptha, the active cleaner in Seafoam. Unless the bike is a barn queen it is unlikely to need the second can of Seafoam but it won't hurt to put in a mix as recommended in the directions, which I'm guessing is probably about one can to 4 tankfuls.

 

May as well save it for a beer or something less tasty but more useful. :mo money:

Posted
Rather than driving through a can of Seafoam better to use an equal amount of camp fuel which is straight naptha, the active cleaner in Seafoam. Unless the bike is a barn queen it is unlikely to need the second can of Seafoam but it won't hurt to put in a mix as recommended in the directions, which I'm guessing is probably about one can to 4 tankfuls.

 

May as well save it for a beer or something less tasty but more useful. :mo money:

 

 

Yeah know it was probably not necesary to run the second can through but it didnt hurt either. The old girl purs like a kitten now.

 

 

David

Posted

I might add that I've been a regular user of Seafoam...I add about 1/3 of a can every other tankful....

 

PS....I like that idea of the camp fuel

Posted

 

PS....I like that idea of the camp fuel

 

Me Too!! Are we talking about 'Coleman'?? Might work better as a carb dip too. Sea Foam is good, but it's expensive. I wonder if the fuel could be used instead of SF???

Posted

According to the MSDS sheet, in addition to the naptha, Seafoam contains "pale oil" (a heavier hydrocarbon distillate) and IPA (isopropyl alcohol). The alcohol will help dissolve "polar" constituents and help get rid of water. The heavier hydrocarbon would likely behave as a lubricant. In essence, Seafoam's "active ingredient" is not simply naptha but the camp fuel would work well IF what you want to dissolve is soluble in a moderately agressive organic solvent. i.e. probably good for varnish but less useful for salt/water etc.

Posted
According to the MSDS sheet, in addition to the naptha, Seafoam contains "pale oil" (a heavier hydrocarbon distillate) and IPA (isopropyl alcohol). The alcohol will help dissolve "polar" constituents and help get rid of water. The heavier hydrocarbon would likely behave as a lubricant. In essence, Seafoam's "active ingredient" is not simply naptha but the camp fuel would work well IF what you want to dissolve is soluble in a moderately agressive organic solvent. i.e. probably good for varnish but less useful for salt/water etc.

 

When added directly to the fuel I can see where Sea Foam might have an edge, but for straight dipping Coleman Fuel might be the answer to an empty pocket book. The only thing alchohol does is act as a catalyst between the water and gas, allowing the two to mix and the mixture to be run thru the combustion cycle. The lubricant could be anything. A teaspoon of kerosine in the Coleman Fuel will probably be sufficient. Has anyone bought a gallon of Colemean Fuel lately... price??

Posted

Had the same problem on mine and tapping the carb in question solved the problem------long enough to make me think I solved the problem, my drains were also plugged. I would also suggest you check your fuel filter if you haven't. I didn't and ended up having to remove my carbs for a gooood cleaning, I couldn't believe all the trash in them and my fuel filter was really really bad, no telling where the fuel we get comes from or the condition of the storage tanks. Good idea on the Coleman fuel as I have not found Seafoam down here, is it a automotive or a marine product? I wonder how does the Coleman fuel affect the rubber parts in the carbs?

Posted
I have not found Seafoam down here, is it a automotive or a marine product? I wonder how does the Coleman fuel affect the rubber parts in the carbs?

 

Seafoam here (Reno, Nv) is available at Autozone and Napa auto supplies....Seafoam claims it can be used in just about any gasoline engine, even in lawn mowers..Not sure about diesel

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