How do I bleed brakes

[Sandbagger]

I am trying to bleed the brakes and they are spongy. I understand the rear brake is linked with the front left. I have speed bleeders. If someone can give me specific instructions for bleeding the front hand brake and the integrated brakes I would sure appreciate it. I am not being successful.

Thanks for the time.

[cimmer]

Right master cylinder controls the right front caliper as you sit on the bike. Depending on the year of your Venture will determine how you bleed the linked brakes. The 86-93 Ventures have a brake bleeder at the triple tree neck. Bleed the rear brake and then bleed the left front caliper and then if you have it, bleed the upper bleeder. You will need to remove the false tank cover to get to it.

You can also access the service manuals in the tech area and it talks about the procedure to bleed the brakes.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Rick F.

[utadventure]

The rear brake is linked to the front left. Do the rear brake, then the front and then (and this I didn't know about the first time I tried) bleed the valve that is up by the steering head. It's right in front of the false tank cover, a little to the right side.

 

I couldn't get good brakes until the upper bleeder was done.

 

Dave

[bassplayer]

Thanks, thats the same problem I'm having. Now I have a direction to go in.

[skydoc_17]

Hey Bobby,

All of this is good advise if you had an MKII 1986 to 1993 VR but I see that you have the MKI 1983 to 1985 VR and this is a somewhat different animal. I will share a few tricks I use on the MKI's and hopefully it will work for you. As to the right front Brake caliper, Take the speed bleeder off the caliper and use the stock bleeder until you get a good solid feel with the hand brake. (I'll explain about the speed bleeder below)

As you already know, the rear brake and the left front break are linked. As the line that connects the rear brake to the LF brake runs up the frame, any air in the system is going to be trapped here. On the right side of the frame there is a connector on the MKI (but not a bleeder like the MKII) using two wrenches, crack this connector slightly, (have a rag handy, you could have brake fluid coming out of this connector!) press the rear brake pedal down firmly one time and close the connector. (Just like you are bleeding a caliper) Pump the brake pedal a few times and crack the connector again slightly, push the brake pedal down one time again, then close the connector. Now do the rear caliper, then the front. Then do the connector again, then the rear, then the front. Remember to keep the rear master full of fluid! I usually do this on the first day, let the bike sit over night, so the air will settle at the highest spot which is the connector. Start with the connector the second day, then the rear, then the front. By the end of the second day, I usually have a good solid brake pedal. I have found that speed bleeders work on a system that has fluid all thru it but if for some reason most of the fluid has been removed from the brake system, (Like caliper replacement, leaking brake line, M/C rebuild, etc.) then you may want to start with the stock bleeders and then put the speed bleeders in after you get a good pedal. Air in the brake line will not activate the ball and spring mechanism inside a speed bleeder, Only brake fluid will. So if you have a lot of air in the system it will not let it come out of the speed bleeder. This is one of the most tedious, hair pulling jobs on an MKI VR so be patient with yourself, work on it for a while, (I'm good for about an hour...Tops!) Then come back to it. At my shop I use a fancy vacuum sucker tool and the tricks described above and it still takes me one full day to get a solid pedal on a bike that has no fluid in it. Thats why they added the bleeder to the MKII bikes, even the dealers used to pull their hair out over this service. If you have other questions or need a break, PM me and I'll cheer you on!

Earl

Edited October 10, 2009 by skydoc_17
CRAYON BROKE!

[maindog]

I just finished a complete rebuild of both front and back masters, lines and calipers on my 83, had to completely drain and removed all parts, lines and such. I took two days to get all the air out , ( and I used a vac also) I found that the rear master banjo fitting that feeds the front triple tree port valve is a bad spot for catching a bubble . like skydoc said you need to pump it hold it and crack it to purge the air bubble or you could be their for hours.

 

with some patience you'll get it . PS if you cant get a good hard pedal that stays, you should pull the master and check the seals, if you go that far you should go ahead and just replace them. sometimes the c-clip is a real bear on them so be warned.

[Sandbagger]

This makes me feel a little better. I thought I was just completely incompetent.

Thanks for the help guys.

[Sandbagger]

On the front brakes there is a 6 " hose connector from each of the calipers to something in the front. Do I need to bleed at the calipers or also bleed the bleeder in front of the calipers?

[Rocket]

On the front brakes there is a 6 " hose connector from each of the calipers to something in the front. Do I need to bleed at the calipers or also bleed the bleeder in front of the calipers?

 

Need to bleed both, that is the Antidive on the front of the fork tubes.

[Sandbagger]

So if I need to bleed both are they activated by the brakes?

Do I bleed the antidive first and then the brakes or the reverse?

Appreciate the help.

Bob