Hotrod Posted October 9, 2009 #1 Posted October 9, 2009 I have a popping and burbling on my right exhaust pipe,especially on decelleration.AIS has been plugged.Resynced the carbs yesterday with Morgan Carb Tune.I had a set of Harley Street Glide pipes on it,found an exhaust leak at the clamp and thought that was what was causing the problem.Removed them and put stock exhaust with the end baffle removed back on.Still have the same problem.I checked the Y pipe for a leak and cannot see one,but that doen't mean its not there.Left side does not do this.It is smooth,like it is supposed to be.It is still under warranty,but if its not warranty work,My dealer where I bought the bike charges $120 per hour.I can't afford that right now.I hope some one here can help.Any ideas?The bike has 8500 miles on it and is a 2007 RSV.I thught about changing plugs. I don't think it will help,but stranger things have happened.
Seaking Posted October 9, 2009 #2 Posted October 9, 2009 I have a popping and burbling on my right exhaust pipe,especially on decelleration.AIS has been plugged.Resynced the carbs yesterday with Morgan Carb Tune.I had a set of Harley Street Glide pipes on it,found an exhaust leak at the clamp and thought that was what was causing the problem.Removed them and put stock exhaust with the end baffle removed back on.Still have the same problem.I checked the Y pipe for a leak and cannot see one,but that doen't mean its not there.Left side does not do this.It is smooth,like it is supposed to be.It is still under warranty,but if its not warranty work,My dealer where I bought the bike charges $120 per hour.I can't afford that right now.I hope some one here can help.Any ideas?The bike has 8500 miles on it and is a 2007 RSV.I thught about changing plugs. I don't think it will help,but stranger things have happened. $120 per HOUR??!! wow.. sells the bikes cheap, rapes the customer on the service work.. And I thought $80 an hour was steep.. wowwwwwww.. Do the plugs anyway, you'll have a boo at how things are burning and you'll have that out of the way.. takes time but inexpensive step towards trouble shooting.. Best of luck.. Cheers
Hotrod Posted October 9, 2009 Author #3 Posted October 9, 2009 Yea,way too high on the labor rate.They do have good mechanics that seem to be some what knowledgeable on the RSV.I had the clutch basket changed to the I basket and they were very helpfull.I called and talked to the Service Manager and he ordered the I basket without even listening or test riding the bike.He called me 2 weeks later and told me it was in,and to bring the bike in at my convenience.They also have a program called tires for life.You pay $800 and they will supply the tires of your choice for as long as you own the bike,including mounting and balancing.I had 2 new Elite 3's put on at the same time of the clutch basket and signed ticket and walked out.They don't know it, but I'm gonna cost them a bunch of money.I like this bike,and will keep it a long time.
Dave77459 Posted October 9, 2009 #4 Posted October 9, 2009 They also have a program called tires for life.You pay $800 and they will supply the tires of your choice for as long as you own the bike,including mounting and balancing.I had 2 new Elite 3's put on at the same time of the clutch basket and signed ticket and walked out.They don't know it, but I'm gonna cost them a bunch of money.I like this bike,and will keep it a long time. That is an insane program. I've already got $300 in rubber, plus mounting. In a year! Dave
1sttenor Posted October 9, 2009 #5 Posted October 9, 2009 On your question, it might be the choke isn't adjusted correctly? Normally a sync will do it, if not it probably is a warranty issue.
N3FOL Posted October 9, 2009 #6 Posted October 9, 2009 It really won't hurt to replace spark plugs. Yamaha recommends that plugs be replaced at 8000 miles. I did mine 1000 miles ago using OEM brand NGK plugs.
gibvel Posted October 9, 2009 #7 Posted October 9, 2009 Have you checked to see if the choke is releasing all the pins when the choke is off? Look at the choke linkage and you'll see how, when you pull out on the knob, the bars slide across and contact brass "enrichment" pins and pull them out. Make sure that the pieces that pull them out let them go all the way back in when you push the choke off. If they don't you can adjust them very easily with some needle nose. They are pretty soft so you don't have to tweak much. Try to get them so they all contact the pins at the same time and release them fully when off.
Seaking Posted October 9, 2009 #8 Posted October 9, 2009 Have you checked to see if the choke is releasing all the pins when the choke is off? Look at the choke linkage and you'll see how, when you pull out on the knob, the bars slide across and contact brass "enrichment" pins and pull them out. Make sure that the pieces that pull them out let them go all the way back in when you push the choke off. If they don't you can adjust them very easily with some needle nose. They are pretty soft so you don't have to tweak much. Try to get them so they all contact the pins at the same time and release them fully when off. ooh that gave me a nasty thought.. something I'll also have to check as my choke was very very stiff earlier this year to the point where I yanked off the plastic knob.. lubed it since and much better now.. however, I'll have a look at those pins you mentioned.. Learned something new today.. thanks
Hotrod Posted October 9, 2009 Author #9 Posted October 9, 2009 For those who have this problem, this is what I did. I read all the post and decided to richen the pilot screws.I pried all the caps off the screws and adjusted them 1/4 turn out.I have k&n filters and had Harley Street Glide pipes. I took the harley pipes off and put the stock pipes back on,but with the rear cone removed and most of the rear baffle removed.I thought I had an exhaust leak at the clamp on the harley pipes and I thouight that's where the popping was coming from.I went back to the stock pipes because I knew they sealed good at the clamp.Still had the problem.Any way, enrichened the pilot screws and that seems to have fixed my popping.I'm gonna ride it this way for a while, but may wind up going another 1/4 turn just to make sure it is getting enough fuel.
Brake Pad Posted October 10, 2009 #10 Posted October 10, 2009 I have a popping and burbling on my right exhaust pipe,especially on decelleration.AIS has been plugged.Resynced the carbs yesterday with Morgan Carb Tune.I had a set of Harley Street Glide pipes on it,found an exhaust leak at the clamp and thought that was what was causing the problem.Removed them and put stock exhaust with the end baffle removed back on.Still have the same problem.I checked the Y pipe for a leak and cannot see one,but that doen't mean its not there.Left side does not do this.It is smooth,like it is supposed to be.It is still under warranty,but if its not warranty work,My dealer where I bought the bike charges $120 per hour.I can't afford that right now.I hope some one here can help.Any ideas?The bike has 8500 miles on it and is a 2007 RSV.I thught about changing plugs. I don't think it will help,but stranger things have happened. mine started the same thing after I had the carbs sunk. now I feather the clutch more, and use the brake, to stop the popping, while down shfting. I used to get 125 miles to the tank before sinking the carbs, now I get 150-ish, or better at slower speeds. ( I guess I'll deal with the popping )
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