SamB Posted October 16, 2007 #26 Posted October 16, 2007 It did not run long , maybe 4 minutes . It still had a bit of oil in it ( filter was not changed. It should be clean alright!! .. As to the extra spring, what kind of job is that? Would the exhaust have to come off? Thanks Sam
bikenut Posted October 16, 2007 #27 Posted October 16, 2007 No the exhaust does not have to come off if you have a ball allen wrench for the bolts. Remove the cover , nothing will fall out, remove 6 bolts that hold the spring in place ( REPLACE the 6 Bolts with new ones)That is a must. Install bolt springs tighten all 6 bolt s up per specs and but the cover back on with new gasket if you want or use some black silicone. Some oil might come out but if the bike is on the side stand it should just be very little. Thats it. About a 1 hour if you never have worked on a bike before, very easy and that would take care of your slipping clutch. :080402gudl_prv: Bikenut
SamB Posted October 17, 2007 #28 Posted October 17, 2007 So it sounds like if I get the new bolts, a gasket and the spring , I am in business?
bikenut Posted October 17, 2007 #29 Posted October 17, 2007 That is all you need . Good luck. Bikenut
Gearhead Posted October 17, 2007 #30 Posted October 17, 2007 The Energy Conserving oils are the ones with the extra friction modifiers that are said to be bad on clutches. Energy Conserving rating only applies to 10-30 and thinner - I'm pretty sure that 10-40 does not have the rating. I know that 20-50, mono grades like 30 or 40 and diesel 15-40 are not Energy Conserving and don't have the harmful friction modifiers. Synthetics are another subject and have a debate of their own! I've replaced the clutches in my Virago and Venture, both around the 50-60k mile mark, both because of slippage, and measured both to have every single part in spec, including the springs and friction discs. In both cases, all I replaced were the friction discs, and in both cases the slippage was cured. The Virago now has 130k miles with no slippage. I've had other issues, but no slippage! Both were purchased used with 45K or so on them, so maybe they were both run with some kind of no-no in the oil. Jeremy
SamB Posted October 17, 2007 #31 Posted October 17, 2007 Just ordered the parts from the stealer. Will try just adding the extra spring first and see what happens. Thanks for the info. .
SamB Posted October 17, 2007 #32 Posted October 17, 2007 Gearhead So am I to understand that ALL oils under 30 weight have the modifiers wether they are Motorcycle oils , diesel oils etc.?
Condor Posted October 17, 2007 #33 Posted October 17, 2007 Gearhead So am I to understand that ALL oils under 30 weight have the modifiers wether they are Motorcycle oils , diesel oils etc.? not all of them. They usually put out have and have nots.
KiteSquid Posted October 17, 2007 #34 Posted October 17, 2007 Read the label!!!! If it says "Energy Conserving" in the "doughnut" shape seal, DO NOT put it in a wet clutch application, like the RSV
Freebird Posted October 18, 2007 #35 Posted October 18, 2007 I don't know of any of the motorcycle specific oils that have the friction modifiers. Some of them may but none that I've seen.
Gearhead Posted October 18, 2007 #36 Posted October 18, 2007 Yeah, what they said. I don't think that diesel or MC oils are offered in 10-30 or lower, actually, so neither are Energy Conserving. Bottom line - look for the label. Jeremy
ctraylor Posted October 18, 2007 #37 Posted October 18, 2007 Castrol in everything I own and never any problems.
hig4s Posted October 19, 2007 #38 Posted October 19, 2007 Gearhead So am I to understand that ALL oils under 30 weight have the modifiers wether they are Motorcycle oils , diesel oils etc.? Oil IS a friction modifier!!!!! As long as the additives to the oil do not turn it into an "Enregy Conserving" oil it should be OK for wet clutchs. Stop over thinking it.
Guest KitCarson Posted October 19, 2007 #39 Posted October 19, 2007 Hey been watching this thread for a week...... Several weeks ago I went to a Yamaha shop, to have them take Cricket for a ride.......I looked at every bottle of oil in the shop.......No.......none.....not one......none...of the MC specific oils have the energy conserving label on the bottle. Today I went to a new Super Walmart......again looked at every bottle and brand of oil in the place. All car oils including mobile one....10w30 and thinner.......have the energy conserving label........I did see one oil 5w40 that also had this.....all other oils.....oils that you would use in a bike.....such as 15w40 up to 20w50 do not have this label. I use Castrol.....Syntec 20W50.......or Mobil One 20W50 Full Syn.......car oil........always have........never had a problem with a clutch....other than normal wear and tear.....they will all start to slip a bit about 45 to 60000 miles.......I think it depends on how much you slip the clutch. In any event a slipping clutch is no big deal.......takes about one hour to replace the friction discs..............Respectfully Kit
KiteSquid Posted October 19, 2007 #40 Posted October 19, 2007 Thanks for reading all those boring labels and reporting your findings.
Guest KitCarson Posted October 19, 2007 #41 Posted October 19, 2007 Thanks for reading all those boring labels and reporting your findings. Hope you are not holding your breath waiting on that windshield! I think we will have all ate the turkey before it gets here! Kit
SamB Posted October 28, 2007 #42 Posted October 28, 2007 Just finished adding the extra stock spring and went for a test ride. Works like a champ. The job was not as difficult as I thought . I do notice more tension on the clutch when shifting and it engages a bit sooner , but I will get over that. Thanks for the help guys.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now