Custom fiberglass bodywork?

[a1bummer]

So who does a guy go to when he's built a custom rig like a trike or sidecar and needs a fiberglass body or shell made for it? Are there some tricks or simple equipment for the DIY'er so he can doe it himself? I've been putting a lot of thought into building a Tri-Car using my 83 VR and a VW engine and trans-axle. I'm sure I could put it together, but have no idea how to make fiberglass body panels.

 

Any advice?

[Condor]

So who does a guy go to when he's built a custom rig like a trike or sidecar and needs a fiberglass body or shell made for it? Are there some tricks or simple equipment for the DIY'er so he can doe it himself? I've been putting a lot of thought into building a Tri-Car using my 83 VR and a VW engine and trans-axle. I'm sure I could put it together, but have no idea how to make fiberglass body panels.

 

Any advice?

 

You'll probably put more effort into making the panels then you will doing the mod if you want something decent looking when you're thru. I think I'd try doing something with the back of a V-Dub body and then go from there. From scratch, and making the molds, then laying up the panels is a big job. You could cold mold something out of thin ply and then cover is with glass, but getting any shape is tuff.....it'll look closer to a box. Someone on the board made a trailer a while back using a... I think... closed cell foam and then glassed over it. Looks pretty nice... Maybe they'll chime in.

[a1bummer]

Hey thanks. I found a really nice write-up in another forum from a guy who made a carbon fiber/Kevlar fuel tank for a motorcycle. I've only been able to read through the first 8 of the 30 pages, but so far it is very interesting and very informative. This guy does a great job with the details. I don't know if I'll ever get the chance or time to build my tri-car thing. I also have some blueprints for a gyro-copter I would rather put the time into. But in the meantime, this process would work great for making glass or carbon fiber replacement body parts for our aging VR's. I wonder how an entire carbon fiber body would look on a 1st. gen?

 

Here's the link to that write-up

[ame=http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145975]SV Carbon Tank project for Zoran - BARF - Bay Area Riders Forum[/ame]

[BigBoyinMS]

See if this helps... http://www.rqriley.com/frp-foam.htm

[a1bummer]

Sweet! That looks like the thing I was looking for. This is similar to what I was thinking but even better. Thanks!

[hipshot]

i think you need to talk with a member here, who goes by the name of "beer thirty".

if i 'm not mistaken, he built the "beer cart" from scratch, using styro-foam looking stuff for molds.

just jt

[bdyohecomcast.net]

I remember a while back popular mec. mag. had a article on how to make a fiber glass body I know they used foam rubber as molds . can"t remeember anythng else about it Bill

[BEER30]

Well I built the BEERCART with plans right out of my head . No drawing , no plans , No kits . My most important attribute was "Visualization" . Seeing it in my head .....believe it or not ! If you can visualize it , you pretty much got it licked .

Ok now , you know what you want and know how it will look like . If you suffer CRS , then write/draw it down on paper . Now I can only tell you on what I did making the BEERCART . But I will admit that I had some experience with forming fiberglass/molds by watching my dad build boats when I was a kid , so this is old school .

I first started off by laying down the floor of the BC . 1/2 plywood , then making an inner box that could be disassembled by using blocks and screws . This inner box was smaller than the opening of the top/door . From the inner box , I cut out ribs and fastened them in numerous locations . Some ribs were smaller , different shapes , but they carried the lines to what I wanted to establish on the outside shape of things to come . Spacing numerous ribs spaced about 12-16" apart worked well for me , but may vary upon projects . I built the mold on a rotisserie like stand so I can rotate the BC as I am working on it .

I then looked at the foams that were designed for fiberglass . They are expensive to say the least . So I used the 1/2" blue foam used to insulate house siding . Now keep in mind , fiberglass resin will dissolve this foam like gas in a Styrofoam cup . I will explain what I did later to cure this . By cutting the foam into strips , layering them , I started stacking them on top of one another forming a thicker wall in between the ribs . Using Elmer's glue and some 3" drywall screws occassionally, I layered the side walls allowing the foam to stick out further as I will be cutting/forming it later .

After I completed all the foam placing , I used a belt sander with 50 grit and a wraps to start forming the shape of what I wished it to be . I sanded to the point to where I sanded down to where the foam was cut down to the ribs . Using a straight edge or by sight , I sanded to where I was satisfied . You do not have to be perfect or extremely smooth at this point , as we have one other step to do to define the lines .

Once we have sanded the foam , we will not get all the line perfect . Such as the flares on the wheel well of the BC for example . You will not get the fine line , so will do another type of forming using drywall compound . Now you ask , "Why drywall compound ? " . Well , it's cheap , it can be busted up , and it can be dissolved in water , and it's like clay ....easy to mold . Using the drywall compound , I started to form the fine lines , flares and to dress it up . You want to cover ALL of the foam , filling in the pits , holes , and also to balance the side in shape equally . You will have to apply the drywall compound in thin layers , or you will get cracking as it dries , so take your time . After sanding , shaping as if you were doing Bondo work or forming clay to where you are satisfied with the shape , then it is time to start with the next step .

Remember I mentioned that the fiberglass resin will dissolve the foam like gas in a Styrofoam cup ? Well we will paint the project with some old latex house paint . The paint will become a barrier and not allow the resin to burn the foam , plus we have a layer of drywall compound as well . You might have several old gallons of it in the garage ! Oils or water base paint , it does not matter , but I prefer water base as it is easier to remove later on . We will need to apply at least several thick coats to cover the project with a paint roller .

After the paint dries , check you lines , fill them in if needed . You still do not have to be exactly perfectly smooth as that will be the task when you do the fiberglassing body work . Once you are satisfied , I used 2 cans of Turtle Wax paste to rub onto the BC . This is a release agent . Will not allow the fiberglass to stick to the project and will make it easier to remove the mold later on .

Now the fiberglassing . I used multiple layers , using 1-2 .oz matting and cloth . Applying them in overlaying pattern , alternating between matting and cloth . My intention was to apply a 1/4" thick wall evenly all around the BC . In some places where I needed more strength , I applied ribs and fiberglassed over them . After I finished all my glassing and the resin is finally dry , I started to dis-assemble the mold . By removing the inner box by unscrewing the ribs and from base of the floor of the BC . Taking all the plywood out , other than the BC's floor . Then removing the foam , one chunk at a time . The peeling all the drywall compound and latex paint off the inside of the fiberglass . Depending on what you will be doing to the interior , you may have to sand and use acetone to remove the Turtle Wax . You may have to add ribs for strength or other interior parts as well so you will need to clean the glass for better bonding . I also had to add the ice box and fiberglass the plywood floor of the BC and also make the hatch as well . Once all the mold and wax was removed , I did all the common body work and painting as if I were doing my cage . Making the mold was easy to me . Not getting into a hurry , drinking a few beers and pondering on the Visualization of what I wanted it to look like at the end , I really enjoyed making the BC . Not saying that I had a few scares now and then , it was fun to make .

 

I spent approx. $900 in materials making the BC and about 5 months (taking an occasional few hours at a time in the evening) . That included the axles , aluminum mags , 12" radial tires , resin , foam , paints , lights , etc...... Some materials I got on special . The paint/primers alone I used would have cost me around $450.00 , but I got all for $75.00 . Resin and fiberglass , I got much cheaper as I know people in the industry .

 

I hope the info. I stated helps and if you need , call me in the evenings and I can explain more in detail .

 

BEER30

[a1bummer]

I like the idea of using joint compound. But then I wouldn't get to play with it after the job was done though. So if I'm understanding you right, you used the foam and joint compound to make the mold. And then laid the fiberglass over that. Then when you took out the foam/compound, what you had left was the BEERCART and not a mold/negative for the BEERCART?

 

Have any pics of the finished project?

 

Thanks, Bill

[BEER30]

Bill ,

Yes , after the BC was built , the mold was destroyed . Now that's not to say that one can make a mold after the project is completed . I was thinking at one time to put one of our employee's husband whom helped me on the BC to make more as a business . But ran out time extra time to do so . What we would have done was smear a release agent , apply another layer or two of glass over the BC . Make the mold in several parts so it could disassembled after the glass was sprayed by a chopper gun . Then the mold be taken apart and WaLa , another BC .

We almost started making trailers , but thought about the DOT regulations , titles , and liability crap that came with it . So we decided not to do so .

 

I have photos located somewhere of the making of the BC . I'll have to locate them and repost .

 

BEER30

[a1bummer]

Now that you mention the chopper gun... I remember there is a small Mom & Pop composite company a few miles to the south of me. I've been in their fab room before to talk about composites with nano-technology worked into them. I'll have to stop in and talk to the owner again and tell him about the new nano-materials I learned about this summer. Then I can see if he has any tips for me.

[The Jester]

I understand some of you are looking for this info.

 

Well I built the BEERCART with plans right out of my head . No drawing , no plans , No kits . My most important attribute was "Visualization" . Seeing it in my head .....believe it or not ! If you can visualize it , you pretty much got it licked .

Ok now , you know what you want and know how it will look like . If you suffer CRS , then write/draw it down on paper . Now I can only tell you on what I did making the BEERCART . But I will admit that I had some experience with forming fiberglass/molds by watching my dad build boats when I was a kid , so this is old school .

I first started off by laying down the floor of the BC . 1/2 plywood , then making an inner box that could be disassembled by using blocks and screws . This inner box was smaller than the opening of the top/door . From the inner box , I cut out ribs and fastened them in numerous locations . Some ribs were smaller , different shapes , but they carried the lines to what I wanted to establish on the outside shape of things to come . Spacing numerous ribs spaced about 12-16" apart worked well for me , but may vary upon projects . I built the mold on a rotisserie like stand so I can rotate the BC as I am working on it .

I then looked at the foams that were designed for fiberglass . They are expensive to say the least . So I used the 1/2" blue foam used to insulate house siding . Now keep in mind , fiberglass resin will dissolve this foam like gas in a Styrofoam cup . I will explain what I did later to cure this . By cutting the foam into strips , layering them , I started stacking them on top of one another forming a thicker wall in between the ribs . Using Elmer's glue and some 3" drywall screws occassionally, I layered the side walls allowing the foam to stick out further as I will be cutting/forming it later .

After I completed all the foam placing , I used a belt sander with 50 grit and a wraps to start forming the shape of what I wished it to be . I sanded to the point to where I sanded down to where the foam was cut down to the ribs . Using a straight edge or by sight , I sanded to where I was satisfied . You do not have to be perfect or extremely smooth at this point , as we have one other step to do to define the lines .

Once we have sanded the foam , we will not get all the line perfect . Such as the flares on the wheel well of the BC for example . You will not get the fine line , so will do another type of forming using drywall compound . Now you ask , "Why drywall compound ? " . Well , it's cheap , it can be busted up , and it can be dissolved in water , and it's like clay ....easy to mold . Using the drywall compound , I started to form the fine lines , flares and to dress it up . You want to cover ALL of the foam , filling in the pits , holes , and also to balance the side in shape equally . You will have to apply the drywall compound in thin layers , or you will get cracking as it dries , so take your time . After sanding , shaping as if you were doing Bondo work or forming clay to where you are satisfied with the shape , then it is time to start with the next step .

Remember I mentioned that the fiberglass resin will dissolve the foam like gas in a Styrofoam cup ? Well we will paint the project with some old latex house paint . The paint will become a barrier and not allow the resin to burn the foam , plus we have a layer of drywall compound as well . You might have several old gallons of it in the garage ! Oils or water base paint , it does not matter , but I prefer water base as it is easier to remove later on . We will need to apply at least several thick coats to cover the project with a paint roller .

After the paint dries , check you lines , fill them in if needed . You still do not have to be exactly perfectly smooth as that will be the task when you do the fiberglassing body work . Once you are satisfied , I used 2 cans of Turtle Wax paste to rub onto the BC . This is a release agent . Will not allow the fiberglass to stick to the project and will make it easier to remove the mold later on .

Now the fiberglassing . I used multiple layers , using 1-2 .oz matting and cloth . Applying them in overlaying pattern , alternating between matting and cloth . My intention was to apply a 1/4" thick wall evenly all around the BC . In some places where I needed more strength , I applied ribs and fiberglassed over them . After I finished all my glassing and the resin is finally dry , I started to dis-assemble the mold . By removing the inner box by unscrewing the ribs and from base of the floor of the BC . Taking all the plywood out , other than the BC's floor . Then removing the foam , one chunk at a time . The peeling all the drywall compound and latex paint off the inside of the fiberglass . Depending on what you will be doing to the interior , you may have to sand and use acetone to remove the Turtle Wax . You may have to add ribs for strength or other interior parts as well so you will need to clean the glass for better bonding . I also had to add the ice box and fiberglass the plywood floor of the BC and also make the hatch as well . Once all the mold and wax was removed , I did all the common body work and painting as if I were doing my cage . Making the mold was easy to me . Not getting into a hurry , drinking a few beers and pondering on the Visualization of what I wanted it to look like at the end , I really enjoyed making the BC . Not saying that I had a few scares now and then , it was fun to make .

 

I spent approx. $900 in materials making the BC and about 5 months (taking an occasional few hours at a time in the evening) . That included the axles , aluminum mags , 12" radial tires , resin , foam , paints , lights , etc...... Some materials I got on special . The paint/primers alone I used would have cost me around $450.00 , but I got all for $75.00 . Resin and fiberglass , I got much cheaper as I know people in the industry .

 

I hope the info. I stated helps and if you need , call me in the evenings and I can explain more in detail .

 

BEER30