Totally puzzled !!

[bootneck]

Hi everyone,

 

Firstly just a short introduction, I live in the UK just purchased a 1990 Venture Royale XVZ1300, Cali import. Been riding 21 years, always been on sprts bikes but decided that I need to act more responsibly now I'm over 40 ha ha.

Love the bike, fantastic fun to ride and so comfy.. however I have a problem.

 

I had to buy a new battery, got the right one in the end 12v 20ah, then discovered that the reg/rec wasn't working, so at great expense ( VAT, and customs !!) , purchased a replacement one from the US. Fitted it to the bike, the problem is that when the bike is revved at 2000 rpm, with a tester on the battery terminals it is only showing 12.16 to 12.19v . There is power coming from the reg when the plug is tested, and it rises and falls when revved, there is also power coming from the stator...

 

I always thought that when revved it should show around 14v ?. The battery never drops below 12v even when idling and the lights are on, brake operated etc etc.

 

Is it different for the Venture Royale, or is there another problem somewhere else, and if so ...... any ideas ????? :icon_smile_question

 

Thanks... and hello again

[LilBeaver]

Welcome!

Sounds like you have the same problem as here:

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=41686

 

Looks like a cleaning and greasing of the stator terminals and such may be in order.

I'm sure someone else will chime in with more usefull information.

 

Cheers and Good luck!

 

-Rick M.

[FreezyRider]

I don't think you have a problem. From what I am understanding, you are testing the output at the battery with everything connected. And, you have a new, fully charged battery. Under those conditions, the battery is not "calling for" a high level of charge. One of the jobs of the rectifier/regulator is to send only the amount of charge necessary to the battery. If the R/R is sensing that the battery is close to full charge it will NOT send 14 volts.

 

You really should test the output of the stator (disconnected from the reg/rectifier) to make sure that it is within specs. If so, you don't have an issue.

[loehring]

Welcome Bootneck. Great to have you and I know you'll love that bike. I had an '89 before my '07 and absolutely loved it. I'm not that good with electrical but every issue I ever had was solved by this group. There are some really smart people on this site and I know you'll get your answer with as little money spend as possible.

 

Good luck.

[bootneck]

Hi Rick,

 

Thanks for the reply, i'm going to take the cover off of the stator tomorrow, make sure everything is as it should be, check the wires, clean the plugs etc etc, then go from there. It is putting in nearly 13V into the battery, it has a brand new battery as I say so definately not that, the reg should be ok it was sold as tested and working .

 

So i'm still gonna ride it for the few sunny days we have left over here before the onset of winter will just have to trickle charge the beast every night .

 

Cheers

 

Waz

[bootneck]

I don't think you have a problem. From what I am understanding, you are testing the output at the battery with everything connected. And, you have a new, fully charged battery. Under those conditions, the battery is not "calling for" a high level of charge. One of the jobs of the rectifier/regulator is to send only the amount of charge necessary to the battery. If the R/R is sensing that the battery is close to full charge it will NOT send 14 volts.

 

You really should test the output of the stator (disconnected from the reg/rectifier) to make sure that it is within specs. If so, you don't have an issue.

 

Thanks Joe,

 

I didn't know that , I always thought that it sent between 14 - 15 v whatever the state of the battery. I'll check the output of the stator like you suggested.

 

Cheers Waz

[bootneck]

Welcome Bootneck. Great to have you and I know you'll love that bike. I had an '89 before my '07 and absolutely loved it. I'm not that good with electrical but every issue I ever had was solved by this group. There are some really smart people on this site and I know you'll get your answer with as little money spend as possible.

 

Good luck.

 

Yeh I do love the bike, it's superb, really good fun to ride and the handling's not bad once you get used to the weight, we have some nice twisty country roads in my neck of the woods and the Venture performs great. I've added a few lights front driving spotlights, and a couple of extra red led strip lights to the rear, looks the dogs danglies

,.... the wife loves it as well .... which as we all know is very important ha ha

[Seaking]

Yeh I do love the bike, it's superb, really good fun to ride and the handling's not bad once you get used to the weight, we have some nice twisty country roads in my neck of the woods and the Venture performs great. I've added a few lights front driving spotlights, and a couple of extra red led strip lights to the rear, looks the dogs danglies

,.... the wife loves it as well .... which as we all know is very important ha ha

 

Do it up with Leveling Links and you'll be styling around those curves like never before.. easy to install and worth every penny.. keeping the tires at the right pressures makes the difference as well..

[Rocket]

Do it up with Leveling Links and you'll be styling around those curves like never before.. easy to install and worth every penny.. keeping the tires at the right pressures makes the difference as well..

 

The bike is a 1990 & not a 2nd gen. Our new member, just happened to post this thread, in the wrong forum.

[Rocket]

Thanks Joe,

 

I didn't know that , I always thought that it sent between 14 - 15 v whatever the state of the battery. I'll check the output of the stator like you suggested.

 

Cheers Waz

 

Another way to check the stator is to "back probe" the stator output connector, with the engine running & the multimeter set to alternating current. Do three complete rounds of testing, moving your base probe (lets say the black one) over to the next connector, after getting readings from your red one on the other 2 connectors. All readings should be about the same, if 1 is much lower, part of the stator is probably shot. But check cleaniness of the stator output connectors to the rectifier / regulator, as these have been known to corrode, causing resistance & melting plastic of the connector housing & wire insulation.

[Freebird]

Moved to first gen tech talk.

[Dano]

Another way to check the stator is to "back probe" the stator output connector, with the engine running & the multimeter set to alternating current. Do three complete rounds of testing, moving your base probe (lets say the black one) over to the next connector, after getting readings from your red one on the other 2 connectors. All readings should be about the same, if 1 is much lower, part of the stator is probably shot. But check cleaniness of the stator output connectors to the rectifier / regulator, as these have been known to corrode, causing resistance & melting plastic of the connector housing & wire insulation.

 

 

If the stator voltage reads fine, then cut out the connector(s), put shrink tube on each wire then solder them and shrink the tube over the solder joints. Eliminates the "burnt up" connector some have a problem with.

[timgray]

Be careful when back probing the stator connector when running. there is over 90-100Volts AC on those and it will give you a healthy poke.

 

What you can start with. Bike off, unplug the stator wire and measure between all three, three times.... What this means is pick a wire put the black probe on that wire, measure from that one to another, then the other. put the black probe on the next one, do the same test, then switch to the last wire and repeat again. finally measure each wire to ground. you should NOT get any connection to ground, and all the numbers should read very close to each other but not read a short or an open. Measure with Ohms setting set to 1K or 2K range (2000 ohm max reading)

 

Then reassemble the connections, and start the bike, back probe each probe to each other as before but measuring AC voltage. All should be close to each other in voltage. If one is low then you have a problem.

 

Report back here what you find and we can help you further.

[bikenut]

Remember to check the small black wire coming off the battery there is a plug up there also. If that plug is bad your rectifier is not gounding right and will charge at a low rate like you have . I had the same thing on my 86 and it took me 5 years to find it but I had a broken ground wire from the battery to the rectifier. before I found it My bike would run about 12.5 at 2500rpm at most and 12.2 at 1000 rpm just sitting there but after I ran a new ground wire to the rectifierI was getting 13.7 at 2500 rpm and 12.9 at 1000 rpm so make sure you look at that wire up by the battery also.

It might be the bad one giving you all the problems

Just a thought

Bikenut:fingers-crossed-emo

[Squeeze]

Be careful when back probing the stator connector when running. there is over 90-100Volts AC on those and it will give you a healthy poke.

...

 

 

I've never seen Voltages above 20 Volts AC on Yamaha's. Honda is different, they're using higher Voltages(around 60 to 70 Volts) on AC Side.

 

So, no fear while testing AC Output with the Motor running.

[6m459]

Hi,

 

My bike behaved as you describe and my original stator passed all these resistance checks handily, but was bad anyways. I even borrowed a fancy a$$ed low range digital ohmmeter to check the winding resistances. They all LOOKED good but a replacement stator cheered things up immediately. Suspect this is your problem as well although all the checks as suggested here are definitely worth doing first.

 

Based on experience, I would only buy an OEM Yamaha stator as a replacement, even a used one from ebay (which is what I am currently running with), over so called hi output aftermarket ones. I am sure others will disagree but this is my advice.

 

Pix of my stator replacement job round 1 are available HERE in case you are interested to see whats involved. In THIS pic you see my original one RHS, ebay OEM unit middle and an aftermarket one that only lasted 1 month in service on the LHS.

 

BTW, welcome to our group. Much good advice is to be had here and please keep us posted on your progress and allow us to learn from your experience also.

 

Also btw, are you aware that there is a UK based group of Venture enthusiasts? See HERE.

 

Hope this is of interest.

 

Cheers,

 

Brian H.

 

What you can start with. Bike off, unplug the stator wire and measure between all three, three times.... What this means is pick a wire put the black probe on that wire, measure from that one to another, then the other. put the black probe on the next one, do the same test, then switch to the last wire and repeat again. finally measure each wire to ground. you should NOT get any connection to ground, and all the numbers should read very close to each other but not read a short or an open. Measure with Ohms setting set to 1K or 2K range (2000 ohm max reading)

 

Then reassemble the connections, and start the bike, back probe each probe to each other as before but measuring AC voltage. All should be close to each other in voltage. If one is low then you have a problem.

 

Report back here what you find and we can help you further.

[Rocket]

Hi,

 

Based on experience, I would only buy an OEM Yamaha stator as a replacement, even a used one from ebay (which is what I am currently running with), over so called hi output aftermarket ones. I am sure others will disagree but this is my advice.

 

BTW, welcome to our group. Much good advice is to be had here and please keep us posted on your progress and allow us to learn from your experience also.

 

Brian H.

 

We were Quoted $650 for each new Yammi stator (2 were required), while in Cody for the roundup. I wasn't able to get any re-wound stators from Buckeye, so I suggested a "Mikes Motorsport Electrics" stator ($133) & was able to get them over nighted in.

 

I did not use the Electrosport stator, as I have read about the short, lifespan on some of these units. Most of us had travelled a distance to get to Cody & I didn't want to risk a faulty stator after changing it during the rally.

 

[6m459]

We were Quoted $650 for each new Yammi stator (2 were required)

 

My local dealer quoted me $400CAD (2 yrs ago) for a new OEM Yamaha stator. I got one on ebay c/w cover for $15USD plus shipping. Didn't really intend to use it but when the aftermarket one failed it was either give it a try or park the bike while I argued about warranty replacement. I got lucky on it to be sure but it saved my a$$ and is still going strong. Hence my uncharacteristic devotion.

 

I did not use the Electrosport stator, as I have read about the short, lifespan on some of these units.

 

My aftermarket one turned out to be an Electrosport one. A local manufacturer was reselling them and not being fully forthcoming with the source details.

 

Electrosport did honour the warranty but it took a month round trip for the replacement to arrive. The riding season is short enough in these latitudes without loosing a month!

 

Hope this is of interest.

 

Brian H.

[bikenut]

We were Quoted $650 for each new Yammi stator (2 were required), while in Cody for the roundup. I wasn't able to get any re-wound stators from Buckeye, so I suggested a "Mikes Motorsport Electrics" stator ($133) & was able to get them over nighted in.

 

I did not use the Electrosport stator, as I have read about the short, lifespan on some of these units. Most of us had travelled a distance to get to Cody & I didn't want to risk a faulty stator after changing it during the rally.

 

 

What do you mean by (2 were required)

There is only one stator on the yamaha and all bikes that I know of and worked on.

Just wondering:confused24:

[SilvrT]

What do you mean by (2 were required)

There is only one stator on the yamaha and all bikes that I know of and worked on.

Just wondering:confused24:

 

Rocket has a dual-engine 1st gen...

[LilBeaver]

Rocket has a dual-engine 1st gen...

 

[Grandpagak]

there were 2 of us that needed them out there.. starvin marvins went out on the way there from canada, and mine turned out to be the stattor rather than the regulator as we figgured..

[Rocket]

 

there were 2 of us that needed them out there.. starvin marvins went out on the way there from canada, and mine turned out to be the stattor rather than the regulator as we figgured..

 

So I did both stators at the same time. 1 bike behind the other, on Grandpagak's trailer.

 

Guess we didn't do too bad time wise that day, considering the stators & gaskets arrived that morning, gasket removal time needed & the BBQ lunch interuption. Both bikes were running, before the show & supper.

 

[bootneck]

Wow what a wealth of experience we have on here, fantastic.

 

Well firstly my apologies for posting the thread on the wrong section, I now understand that my bike being a 1990 is a 1st Gen not second. Also I think I might have posted a second thread on the same section, so to the boss I'm sorry :whistling:you might wanna delete it cos i can cover the question here after all.

 

Well I've carried all the tests out suggested. The plugs are gone and hard wired in wrapped etc etc.

 

What I have is that when revved the bike is producing just 12.78v, the voltage meter rises and falls like a rev counter, when the brakes are applied it drops like a stone. When the tester is put onto the output wires from the stator it is only producing 0.4 across all wires so reckon it is fubar.

 

The next question one which i've asked already ( on the wrong forum ), is will a stator from a V Max fit this bike. I have been told that it will as it is essentially the same engine. And to carry on from that, being a bit of a mechanical f***wit, and having no manual with the bike. Is there a thread or instructions on the process I need to follow to take out the old stator and fit the new. Phew that is about it for now I think

 

BTW thanks millions for the welcome and all the advice.... I WILL get this horse on the road !!!

[rhncue]

Wow what a wealth of experience we have on here, fantastic.

 

Well firstly my apologies for posting the thread on the wrong section, I now understand that my bike being a 1990 is a 1st Gen not second. Also I think I might have posted a second thread on the same section, so to the boss I'm sorry :whistling:you might wanna delete it cos i can cover the question here after all.

 

Well I've carried all the tests out suggested. The plugs are gone and hard wired in wrapped etc etc.

 

What I have is that when revved the bike is producing just 12.78v, the voltage meter rises and falls like a rev counter, when the brakes are applied it drops like a stone. When the tester is put onto the output wires from the stator it is only producing 0.4 across all wires so reckon it is fubar.

 

The next question one which i've asked already ( on the wrong forum ), is will a stator from a V Max fit this bike. I have been told that it will as it is essentially the same engine. And to carry on from that, being a bit of a mechanical f***wit, and having no manual with the bike. Is there a thread or instructions on the process I need to follow to take out the old stator and fit the new. Phew that is about it for now I think

 

BTW thanks millions for the welcome and all the advice.... I WILL get this horse on the road !!!

 

There are three checks to determine if the stator is at fault. With the engine off, the three white wires coming from the stator, when checked against each other should read approx. .4 ohms, not volts. Next, the three white wires should be checked for a ground. If they show a ground that leg is shorted. Last, with the engine running, check each white wire for AC voltage, not DC nor ohms. All three should read about the same AC voltage. If the Stator meets this criteria it should be good and I would be looking at the reg/rec, ign. switch or wiring. Here is a link to a complete trouble shooting chart.

 

http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/fault-finding-guide.php

 

Dick