N3FOL Posted October 9, 2009 Author #26 Posted October 9, 2009 Thanks for the diagram. I also have a copy of the Tech Manual and will review the parts and their placement before I start tearing down. This weekend, I am taking a ride to my local Yamaha dealership to pickup my materials. (off to reading sections of the tech manual)
N3FOL Posted October 9, 2009 Author #27 Posted October 9, 2009 There is an oil seal on the pumpkin end of the driveshaft (see att'd pic) ... none on the engine side. The splines on the engine side are manually greased.... the ones on the pumpkin end are lubed by the oil in the pumpkin. If you pull the shaft from the pumpkin to make it easier to slide back into the U-joint at the engine end, then you may need to replace that seal beforehand...probably a good idea to replace it anyway if you pull the shaft from the pumpkin. Note the circlip (#36) that holds it in. When I pulled mine on the '87, I was able to slide the whole assembly (pumpkin & driveshaft) back into the tube and into the U-joint with minimal "fussing" to get the splines lined up. ok with the picture, I see #33 oil seal is the engine side (?). #9 Oil Seal is the pumpkin side. (Correct me here). These are 2 different part numbers.
RandyR Posted October 9, 2009 #28 Posted October 9, 2009 So, there's no NEED to pull the drive shaft out of the pumpkin end? So if done right, no parts needed? right?
SilvrT Posted October 10, 2009 #29 Posted October 10, 2009 ok with the picture, I see #33 oil seal is the engine side (?). #9 Oil Seal is the pumpkin side. (Correct me here). These are 2 different part numbers. no... #33 goes at the pumpkin end, along with the circlip. The diagram is misleading because it has to be "blown up" that way. When you get it apart, you'll see. You will not have to deal with #9 ... that's inside on the pinion gear.
SilvrT Posted October 10, 2009 #30 Posted October 10, 2009 So, there's no NEED to pull the drive shaft out of the pumpkin end? So if done right, no parts needed? right? correct ... you should not have to pull the driveshaft out of the pumpkin. Further, and I didn't explain this clearly before, if you do pull the shaft, you should put it back into the pumpkin before putting the whole thing back into the tube and into the u-joint. At least that's the way it worked for me and that's the way I see getting the shaft with the seal back into the pumkin properly. Simplest way is... pull the pumpkin with the driveshaft intact, lube the splines that go into the u-joint and put it back together. Use Eck's method.
N3FOL Posted October 10, 2009 Author #31 Posted October 10, 2009 Looks like I will only need one (1) seal which is #33 on the diagram. As far as the driveshaft engine side is concerned, what is holding that in place? Does is just snap-in place on the u-joint. I read on past threads that there is a rubber boot on the engine side that keeps dirt, water, grime, etc. out of that joint.
SilvrT Posted October 10, 2009 #32 Posted October 10, 2009 Looks like I will only need one (1) seal which is #33 on the diagram. As far as the driveshaft engine side is concerned, what is holding that in place? Does is just snap-in place on the u-joint. I read on past threads that there is a rubber boot on the engine side that keeps dirt, water, grime, etc. out of that joint. The splines on the driveshaft just slide into the splines of the u-joint. The whole thing is held in place when it's bolted up at the pumpkin/driveshaft tube with the 4 acorn nuts.
Eck Posted October 10, 2009 #33 Posted October 10, 2009 Mike, Feel free to call me anytime.. you have mail......... Eck
N3FOL Posted October 11, 2009 Author #34 Posted October 11, 2009 Thanks, Eck. I'll be calling you sometime today.
N3FOL Posted January 27, 2010 Author #35 Posted January 27, 2010 I already have removed my rear tire and dropped it off at our local bike shop to mount and balance my new tire for $25 bucks. At this point in time, I am working on wiping off the old grease from the drive shaft and pumpkin end. I removed the circlip on the pumpkin end of the shaft and pulled the drive shaft off the pumpkin...my suspicion is over...there is indeed some gear oil on the splines in there and there seems to be a little bit of grease as well. My question is, do I have to replace the oil seal even though I did not damage the old seal? The old seal appears to be still in good shape, so I am debating whether to go ahead and replace the seal or not. I also read in this thread to swap the inner and outer pads on the rear caliper. Is this method acceptable? My inner pads sure looks thinner than the outer. Please advise. I did take some pics as I was doing the job with my cell phone...the pics are not the best, nevertheless, it shows what I am going through right now. As far as torque specs... 1) Axle Bolt = 110 ft lbs. 2) Acorn Nuts = ?? 3) Rear Caliper bolt = ?? Oh yes, I do plan to use Blue Loctite on all bolts upon re-installation.
SilvrT Posted January 27, 2010 #36 Posted January 27, 2010 My question is, do I have to replace the oil seal even though I did not damage the old seal? The old seal appears to be still in good shape, so I am debating whether to go ahead and replace the seal or not. I would never re-use an oil seal. I also read in this thread to swap the inner and outer pads on the rear caliper. Is this method acceptable? My inner pads sure looks thinner than the outer. Please advise. YES
N3FOL Posted January 27, 2010 Author #37 Posted January 27, 2010 You are very right. The oil seal appears to be in great shape though. When I pulled out the drive shaft off the pumpkin after removing the circlip, the shaft pulled right off easily. At any rate, I do have a brand new oil seal so I will also have to remove the smaller circlip (engine end) in order to slide in the new oil seal. With the way it looks, this is the only way to do it without damaging the seal.
BigBoyinMS Posted January 27, 2010 #38 Posted January 27, 2010 As far as torque specs... 1) Axle Bolt = 110 ft lbs. 2) Acorn Nuts = ?? 3) Rear Caliper bolt = ?? Here is a link to some specs for you... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1705
KiteSquid Posted January 27, 2010 #39 Posted January 27, 2010 Be sure to use Honda Moly60 paste on the splines. Three places. On the Clutch Hub both ends of the drive shaft.
N3FOL Posted January 28, 2010 Author #40 Posted January 28, 2010 Thanks, KiteSquid. I had just picked up my tire tonight and is ready to be installed tomorrow. I still need to wipe off the old grease on the clutch hub and am really surprised to still see a descent amount of grease left in there after 11K + miles. As far as Honda Moly60, I have 2 tubes waiting for me to use. I hope one tube is more than enough to grease the splines on three places.
KiteSquid Posted January 29, 2010 #41 Posted January 29, 2010 I used about a half of a teaspoon to lube all three places. I applied it with an acid brush from the plumbing department of the hardware store that I cut the bristles off to about 1/4 to 3/8" long. You don't need much grease as it is just sliding forces..... Do the fingers on the clutch hub too........ I did.
N3FOL Posted January 29, 2010 Author #42 Posted January 29, 2010 I think I over did the grease on the clutch hub last night. One thing I'd like to point out is that there is a thin rubber bushing under the hub as soon as you pull the fingers out. I saw it when I was cleaning the whole assembly. Oh yes, I did grease the fingers as well...I was glad that the fingers were not corroded at all with some grease applied to them. Also last night, I had the hardest time in installing the oil seal unto the drive shaft. What I failed to do is to remove the metal portion that I left in there...thinking that the rubber seal appeared to be glued to the shaft itself. I had no idea that that metal piece which is part of the rubber seal must go out in order for the new seal to slide in. After spending about 30 minutes trying to figure it out, I decided to give Eck a call and he gladly told me what needs to come out....Thanks to Eck!!! As far as the seal is concerned, it is not really all the way very close to the splines and I think this should be good as long as I can slide in the metal washer and put back the circlip properly. What do you think? From there it was past 9 pm and I decided to call it the night. This Saturday, it should not take me long to grease the d. shaft and pumpkin splines and attempt to slide the d. shaft back on the engine side. I may slightly over do the grease part, but I promise not too much this time. Attached are a couple of pics from last night. As you can see, the pic of the drive shaft still have the metal piece in there before Eck instructed me that that piece has to come out.
N3FOL Posted February 1, 2010 Author #43 Posted February 1, 2010 Yesterday, I finally got everything put back together by noon. All I need is some rain to wash the salt off the roads and a nice day for a test ride. Thanks to all for all your very helpful advice and thanks to VentureRider forum.
LilBeaver Posted February 1, 2010 #44 Posted February 1, 2010 I know, dumb question, but is what I have outlined, what everyone has been calling the 'pumpkin'? I've always referred to this particular piece as the rear axle gear assembly... But, 'pumpkin' is certainly thrown around quite a bit... Thanks. Like someone had said, I do ride a 2nd gen so I guess that makes me kind of slow with some things... I'm okay with that.
SilvrT Posted February 1, 2010 #45 Posted February 1, 2010 I know, dumb question, but is what I have outlined, what everyone has been calling the 'pumpkin'? I've always referred to this particular piece as the rear axle gear assembly... But, 'pumpkin' is certainly thrown around quite a bit... Thanks. Like someone had said, I do ride a 2nd gen so I guess that makes me kind of slow with some things... I'm okay with that. "Pumpkin" ... Also known as "Differential"
LilBeaver Posted February 1, 2010 #46 Posted February 1, 2010 "Pumpkin" ... Also known as "Differential" Okay. I was pretty sure about it, but before I started pulling my own out and whatnot - I just wanted to double check. Thanks.
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