Rear Splines. etc. Parts List

[N3FOL]

In a few months, I'll be taking off my rear tire for replacement. Now I also have to think about greasing the splines, etc.

 

What parts should I have on hand, before I tackle the job:

 

1) J&H Jack - on hand

2) Carbon One with Legs - on hand

3) Bolt to remove the axle bolt - What size do I need for this? Socket?

4) Shaft Drive Seal part - (need 2) - part # 93108-43013-00 - will order soon.

5) Honda Moly60 Tube - will order soon.

6) Rear End Gear Oil - on hand

7) ???

8) ???

[BigBoyinMS]

Let's see if I remember... You'll need 17mm, 10mm and on the axle nut I think I used a 1 1/8 or 1 1/4 socket.

Snap-ring pliers to get the retaining clip off to remove the hub to lube the fingers.

Emery cloth to polish the fingers. To polish the inside of the bushings where the fingers fit I used a heavy piece of wire (coat hanger) doubled with emery cloth in in it and chucked in a drill. A brush for a .45 may work. :-)

Oh, and don't forget the car tire! LoL

Edit: (I keep thinking of more.) A torque wrench would be a good thing to have. And the torque specs.

Here is a link to a thread with torque specs and some more info. [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1705]Rear Spline Lube[/ame]

 

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww202/BigBoyinMS/DSC01127.jpg

Edited October 5, 2009 by BigBoyinMS

[RossKean]

Be prepared to check (and possibly replace) rear brake pads. Take them out and have a good look; the inner will be worn more. If both still have some life in them, swap inner to outer. You can't go by the appearance of the outer pad - it might be OK while the inner is grinding away the rotor. Bleed rear brake while you are there if it hasn't been done in awhile.

[SilvrT]

In a few months, I'll be taking off my rear tire for replacement. Now I also have to think about greasing the splines, etc.

 

What parts should I have on hand, before I tackle the job:

 

1) J&H Jack - on hand

2) Carbon One with Legs - on hand

3) Bolt to remove the axle bolt - What size do I need for this? Socket?

4) Shaft Drive Seal part - (need 2) - part # 93108-43013-00 - will order soon.

5) Honda Moly60 Tube - will order soon.

6) Rear End Gear Oil - on hand

7) ???

8) ???

 

What exactly do you need the seal for... you don't need to remove the pumpkin for a tire replacement. (or am I reading this wrong?)

[N3FOL]

Be prepared to check (and possibly replace) rear brake pads. Take them out and have a good look; the inner will be worn more. If both still have some life in them, swap inner to outer. You can't go by the appearance of the outer pad - it might be OK while the inner is grinding away the rotor. Bleed rear brake while you are there if it hasn't been done in awhile.

 

I always take a look and keep on checking the inner and outer pad every time I clean the wheels. They both still look great after 8K miles. I bought Speedbleeders for my Venture and just waiting for the time I replace the rear tire - good time to bleed the rear brakes. Thanks for the reminder.

[N3FOL]

Let's see if I remember... You'll need 17mm, 10mm and on the axle nut I think I used a 1 1/8 or 1 1/4 socket.

Snap-ring pliers to get the retaining clip off to remove the hub to lube the fingers.

Emery cloth to polish the fingers. To polish the inside of the bushings where the fingers fit I used a heavy piece of wire (coat hanger) doubled with emery cloth in in it and chucked in a drill. A brush for a .45 may work. :-)

Oh, and don't forget the car tire! LoL

Edit: (I keep thinking of more.) A torque wrench would be a good thing to have. And the torque specs.

Here is a link to a thread with torque specs and some more info. Rear Spline Lube

 

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww202/BigBoyinMS/DSC01127.jpg

 

Do I really need to polish the inside of the bushing where the fingers fit?

[N3FOL]

What exactly do you need the seal for... you don't need to remove the pumpkin for a tire replacement. (or am I reading this wrong?)

 

I read in this forum something about replacing 2 small bushings, once you pull out the shaft to grease them. I'll try to locate that thread.

[Eck]

(1) Snap ring pliers...

(2) Gun cleaning brush...medium to soft..do not use a steel brush.. this is to clean the rust out of rear pin hub holes. Use brush carefully and slowly in a hand drill and it will clean the heck out of them. You do not want to enlarge them, just clean them.

(3) "Q" tips to replace grease on hub pins and in hub pin holes so you don't get it all over you..

(4) Wrench for acorn nuts on drive shaft housing (12mm if I remember)

(5) Wrench or socket to remove rear caliper bracket and caliper. (12mm or 14mm=forgot)

(6) Wrench / socket to remove right side muffler

(7) Allen wrench to remove left side cover

(8) Stiff coat hanger wire to slip into hole under rubber plug on drive shaft housing to lift up on drive shaft when reinstalling it. Shape the wire end into a letter "J" hook..

(9) flashlight to look up drive shaft housing to see direction the yoke is laying

(10) A few cold ones and a chair.......

[KiteSquid]

Get an Acid Brush from the plumming department of the hardware store.

 

Cut the bristles off to about 1/4" long.

 

 

Ues this to apply the Honda Moly60 grease.

 

 

 

You should also change out the final drive gear lube, so you will need that and I would replace the seals for the drain and fill plug on the final drive.

[BigBoyinMS]

Do I really need to polish the inside of the bushing where the fingers fit?

 

Not really polish... just clean it good.

[N3FOL]

I think everything is slowly falling in place in my head. Now that makes sense to me to use a fine brush to just clean out the rear pin hub holes.

 

Can you guys mention more about the shaft drive seal (2 needed). I hope I can recognize them once I get everything opened up.

 

One other important question, which bolts would require Blue or Red Loctite during re-installlation? Acorn Nuts? ...

 

+1 on the acid brush. I am imagining, just apply a thin coat of Honda Moly60. Option b: .45 brush is under a buck...may be my best choice.

[SilvrT]

I read in this forum something about replacing 2 small bushings, once you pull out the shaft to grease them. I'll try to locate that thread.

 

gotcha now... you want to grease the u-joint at the engine side of the driveshaft. Bushings??... news to me.

[N3FOL]

gotcha now... you want to grease the u-joint at the engine side of the driveshaft. Bushings??... news to me.

 

I think I should say Seal instead of Bushing.

[SilvrT]

I think I should say Seal instead of Bushing.

 

The only seal I know of is the one where the driveshaft goes into the pumpkin but you shouldn't have to pull that because the splines inside there are lubed by the oil in the pumpkin. But then again, I may be mistaken (

[SilvrT]

 

One other important question, which bolts would require Blue or Red Loctite during re-installlation? Acorn Nuts? ...

 

I don't think you'd want to use RED loctite on anything that you're working on here. BLUE is the one to use. You could use the blue loctite on all of them...shouldn't hurt a thing. But then again, I may be mistaken (

[N3FOL]

The only seal I know of is the one where the driveshaft goes into the pumpkin but you shouldn't have to pull that because the splines inside there are lubed by the oil in the pumpkin. But then again, I may be mistaken (

 

You have a point there. I may not pull that driveshaft if it is not needed. However, several members had pulled their driveshaft from pumpkin and engine side and lubed those splines as well. I figure since everything else has been taken off, it is a good time to go ahead and lube those points. Members, please chime in.

[N3FOL]

I don't think you'd want to use RED loctite on anything that you're working on here. BLUE is the one to use. You could use the blue loctite on all of them...shouldn't hurt a thing. But then again, I may be mistaken (

 

I agree. Will use Blue Loctite on alll bolts.

[SilvrT]

You have a point there. I may not pull that driveshaft if it is not needed. However, several members had pulled their driveshaft from pumpkin and engine side and lubed those splines as well. I figure since everything else has been taken off, it is a good time to go ahead and lube those points. Members, please chime in.

 

I agree ... the splines that go into the U-joint should be inspected & lubed, especially if it's never been done before. Yamaha is pretty stingy with such things and I know this from having to lube the "fingers" inside the rear wheel. They were bone dry from factory and were already starting to corrode. I did that around 8,000 kms (5k miles).

[Eck]

Mike,

On reinstalling your rear wheel to the bike, I highly reccomend you do the following...

Leave acorn nuts fairly loose...this is after you lube and re-install the drive shaft.

Grab just the rear axle, and slip it through both sides of the swing arm as you normally would BUT with out the rear wheel...just use the axle only here..no need for the large axle washer or nut..

Now begin snugging up the acorn nuts "SLOWLY" in a rotation manor / criss cross patteren..do not tighten them, just snug them up little by little. As you do this you must also slowly turn the axle to feel if it is binding..It should turn freely at all times..You are only turning the axle not the drive shaft...keep snugging up the acorn nuts one at a time in the criss cross patteren until they are properly torqued per spec..

Now you can easily remove the axle and continue to install the rear wheel as you normally would.

The axle will slip right back into place through the rear wheel and you will have no binding at all on the axle, wheel or drive shaft alignment.

You do not have to put the axle through the rear caliper mounting bracket when slowly snugging up the acorn nuts..!!!

I have always done this and it makes it really easy to reinstall the rear wheel...

[SilvrT]

Mike,

On reinstalling your rear wheel to the bike, I highly reccomend you do the following...

 

Leave acorn nuts fairly loose...this is after you lube and re-install the drive shaft.

 

Grab just the rear axle, and slip it through both sides of the swing arm as you normally would BUT with out the rear wheel...just use the axle only here..no need for the large axle washer or nut..

 

Now begin snugging up the acorn nuts "SLOWLY" in a rotation manor / criss cross patteren..do not tighten them, just snug them up little by little. As you do this you must also slowly turn the axle to feel if it is binding..It should turn freely at all times..You are only turning the axle not the drive shaft...keep snugging up the acorn nuts one at a time in the criss cross patteren until they are properly torqued per spec..

Now you can easily remove the axle and continue to install the rear wheel as you normally would.

 

The axle will slip right back into place through the rear wheel and you will have no binding at all on the axle, wheel or drive shaft alignment.

 

You do not have to put the axle through the rear caliper mounting bracket when slowly snugging up the acorn nuts..!!!

 

I have always done this and it makes it really easy to reinstall the rear wheel...

 

Eck ... in the case where the axle does bind, this would indicate a mis-alignment issue and may require a shim between the pumpkin and the driveshaft housing at the acorns....correct???

[Eck]

Eck ... in the case where the axle does bind, this would indicate a mis-alignment issue and may require a shim between the pumpkin and the driveshaft housing at the acorns....correct???

 

 

Well, I could be wrong, but I would say NO, not necessarily Silvrt...

 

It could be that the (4) acorn nuts were tightened to snug..to fast..not permitting it to align itself up.. Some people get carried away trying to "hurry up" so they can get back to riding and snug the heck out of them right off the bat..this is a SLOW process .....

 

I would ALWAYS re-loosen and re-snug them up again *two or three times), to make darn sure that I snugged them up slow enough and in a proper "rotating" manor.

 

Then if that doesn't do the trick, then I would have to check to see if I happen to have a possible bent or damaged rear axle.

 

Make note to verify that you have loosened the axle pinch bolt enough to really know that it is not causing the drag on the axle.

 

If all this still does not let the axle turn freely, then your suggested fix would be my last resort... but ONLY IF my bike was out of warranty..

[N3FOL]

Great tips Eck! I need to take my time and slowly put everything in place. The binding issue can be a problem...come to find out...you have already installed the rear tire and added final gear oil.

 

Lots of planning to do, but my confidence is surely building day after day the more I read about this.

[RandyR]

Good thread. At 8,000 miles I'm going to have to replace my OEM Bridgestone in the rear very soon with an Avon Venom I have ready. So will do the lube of the driveshaft, rear pumpkin, and wheel splines with Honda Moly60.

 

I checked and swapped my rear brake pads at 4,000 miles, but will check them again.

 

So it sounds like no gaskets are required for this, the way I read it.

 

I'll probably take the wheel and new Avon to the local dealer and let him change it this first time while I watch. All the previous tires I've changed have been tube type so I didn't have to worry about sealing them on the rim.

[N3FOL]

Good thread. At 8,000 miles I'm going to have to replace my OEM Bridgestone in the rear very soon with an Avon Venom I have ready. So will do the lube of the driveshaft, rear pumpkin, and wheel splines with Honda Moly60.

 

I checked and swapped my rear brake pads at 4,000 miles, but will check them again.

 

So it sounds like no gaskets are required for this, the way I read it.

 

I'll probably take the wheel and new Avon to the local dealer and let him change it this first time while I watch. All the previous tires I've changed have been tube type so I didn't have to worry about sealing them on the rim.

 

Hello RandyR. As far as gaskets are concerned, nothing really is to be replaced to my knowledge. But there are 2 seals that may need to be replaced once you pull out your driveshaft (I think Engine side and pumpkin side) when you reinstall.

[SilvrT]

Hello RandyR. As far as gaskets are concerned, nothing really is to be replaced to my knowledge. But there are 2 seals that may need to be replaced once you pull out your driveshaft (I think Engine side and pumpkin side) when you reinstall.

 

There is an oil seal on the pumpkin end of the driveshaft (see att'd pic) ... none on the engine side. The splines on the engine side are manually greased.... the ones on the pumpkin end are lubed by the oil in the pumpkin. If you pull the shaft from the pumpkin to make it easier to slide back into the U-joint at the engine end, then you may need to replace that seal beforehand...probably a good idea to replace it anyway if you pull the shaft from the pumpkin. Note the circlip (#36) that holds it in.

 

When I pulled mine on the '87, I was able to slide the whole assembly (pumpkin & driveshaft) back into the tube and into the U-joint with minimal "fussing" to get the splines lined up.