I have a car question.

[ken]

Need some help with the heater on my daughter 1996 Sebring. The car has about 160,000 mile on it and the heater is not working the way it should. This started last year. When it at idle it will not blow any heat, only cool air, but when you rev it or drive it the the cool air changes to hot and then back to cool when you stop.

 

I changed the thermastate and the coolant level is good. I thought it may be the heater core so I flushed it with the garden hose, but still no heat. I know there has to be a few members good with a wrench that can suggest things to try.

[flb_78]

Could be the water pump is not circulating the coolant through the heater core.

[ken]

Could be the water pump is not circulating the coolant through the heater core.

 

Wouldn't the car over heat if the water pump wasn't circulating?

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Check all the vacuum hoses and fittings...might be tough to get to some of them...sounds like when you have strong engine vacuum one of the air doors is in the right place, but when the vacuum drops off at idle, the air door is shutting...look for a cracked or leaking hose under there. Feel the heater hoses up near the firewall to make SURE the heater is getting heated coolant when the car is idling....my guess is that it is, and the air doors are not working right under the dash.

 

 

[flb_78]

Wouldn't the car over heat if the water pump wasn't circulating?

 

It's circulating the coolant when the engine is revved up and coolant flows through the core. At idle, the coolant doesn't circulate as fast or as much. If the impeller on the pump is getting worn, it could exaggerate the problem.

 

You may also check the coolant control valve and make sure it's opening all the way.

[flb_78]

Check all the vacuum hoses and fittings...might be tough to get to some of them...sounds like when you have strong engine vacuum one of the air doors is in the right place, but when the vacuum drops off at idle, the air door is shutting...look for a cracked or leaking hose under there. Feel the heater hoses up near the firewall to make SURE the heater is getting heated coolant when the car is idling....my guess is that it is, and the air doors are not working right under the dash.

 

 

 

I was thinking about vacuum, but usually the temperature control is cable operated and the air directional doors are vacuum operated, but, it is a Dodge so who knows.

 

My budddy's Dakota will blow all the air out of the dash at idle, but when he drives it, it blows out the defroster vents!!

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Could also be a leaking vacuum hose on the manifold...but I'm not familiar with that engine so I dont know where it is on that one.

[ken]

Thanks for the help so far. I'll check for vacuum leak. I hope it's a cheap and easy fix.

[flb_78]

IF...big if...you can reach and feel the heater hoses going into the firewall, make sure they are both hot.

[Guest tx2sturgis]

I was thinking about vacuum, but usually the temperature control is cable operated and the air directional doors are vacuum operated, but, it is a Dodge so who knows.

 

My budddy's Dakota will blow all the air out of the dash at idle, but when he drives it, it blows out the defroster vents!!

 

The air doors, which are most likely vacuum operated by vacuum solenoids, mix cool vent air or AC air with heater core air..Im guessing its a partial vacuum leak..

Edited October 4, 2009 by tx2sturgis

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Could even be a vacuum solenoid leaking...

[bongobobny]

There can also be air trapped in the heater lines, which will prevent the circulation of hot water thru the core. There is a flush kit you can buy that connect to the heater line and back flush any air in the line...

[SilvrT]

Try disconnecting your A/C pump electrical. There should be a wire coming from the pump and it will have an in-line connection somewhere. That would at least rule out if it's some kind of temp sensor or something like that....maybe???

[a1bummer]

There can also be air trapped in the heater lines, which will prevent the circulation of hot water thru the core. There is a flush kit you can buy that connect to the heater line and back flush any air in the line...

 

This is what I was gonna suggest. Sometimes it can be a real pain to get all the air out of the cooling system. If ya can get at both heater hoses, feel them after the engine warms up and see if they both are warm. If not, there is probably trapped air in the line. If both lines are cool, then start looking for what is restricting the flow. It would most likely be on the input side of the heater core. Probably a sticky flow control valve or similar.

[ctraylor]

There should be an air bleed valve on the thermostat housing. Loosen it off and fill the radiator until water runs out the bleed valve and the air should be bled out. I have also seen the heater cores stop up and the only way to unstop it is to blow through it backwards with shop air. This usually blows all the gunk out that has built up over the years, seen this many times. If there is a vacuum problem it will change the vents when you get the engine in a pull while driving. I worked for Chrysler for years and have seen this before. What engine? It the engine is a 3.5, the water pump is pulled by the timing belt. If the belt has not been changed the belt may be loose and allowing the water pump to slip. If this is happening, it won't be long until the timing belt fails.

[Marcarl]

Back flush the heater core, as you back flush, catch the fluid in a clean jug, then you can see if you got any junk out of the heater core, rust etc. Follow this by blowing through some air and front flush then back flush again, each time catching the fluid to see if you have any junk coming out. If it flows well both ways, you at least have that part done. If not, flush it out with air agian, fill it with CLR, let it stand for about 15 minutes, then flush out real well with water, catching all the fluid again,,,,,,,. This should clean out the heater core,,, at least for the time being.

[Steve S]

Need some help with the heater on my daughter 1996 Sebring. The car has about 160,000 mile on it and the heater is not working the way it should. This started last year. When it at idle it will not blow any heat, only cool air, but when you rev it or drive it the the cool air changes to hot and then back to cool when you stop.

 

I changed the thermastate and the coolant level is good. I thought it may be the heater core so I flushed it with the garden hose, but still no heat. I know there has to be a few members good with a wrench that can suggest things to try.

 

 

 

My wife's 06 Sebring did the same thing the first winter we had it. To make a long story real short, it was the coolant level. And I don't mean that I added a lot of coolant, Not much more than a pint. Just enough to make it TOTALLY full.

 

I have been working on cars all my life and have never seen an engine do this. I spoke with the service manager at the Chrysler dealership and he said this was a common problem. Evidently there was just enough air in the system to keep it from circulating at an idle... Hope this helps.

 

[Dano]

Good to know

[eusa1]

Several of you are near to the problem, and near to the fix.

 

The answer that i offer is for the fella that does not have much more than a tackle box of tools and limmited knowlege , so if this is above or bellow your situation...take it for what it's worth.

 

The chrysler product in question has a heater core that is located at a level that is a bit higher than the fill level of the radiator, thus allows air to get trapped in the upper level of the core, this allows the core to hold a smaller level of hot coolant and cools off sooner when the coolant is not being replaced at higher speeds/ higher flow.

Park your old faithfull chrysler with the nose of the car as high in the air as you can, maybe even some jack stands or ramps, or a steep driveway, then open the radiator cap and let the engine idle with the cap removed and the heater set at hot and the blower set at the lowest level...not on defrost and not on high blower...just hot heat setting.

Add fluid untill full and at full running temp.

This will burp the air out of the top of your heater core.

And return the heat at idle, however if it returns in short order, then you need to find out where the system is leaking coolant that allows for the air to happen.

Mike

[ken]

Several of you are near to the problem, and near to the fix.

 

The answer that i offer is for the fella that does not have much more than a tackle box of tools and limmited knowlege , so if this is above or bellow your situation...take it for what it's worth.

 

The chrysler product in question has a heater core that is located at a level that is a bit higher than the fill level of the radiator, thus allows air to get trapped in the upper level of the core, this allows the core to hold a smaller level of hot coolant and cools off sooner when the coolant is not being replaced at higher speeds/ higher flow.

Park your old faithfull chrysler with the nose of the car as high in the air as you can, maybe even some jack stands or ramps, or a steep driveway, then open the radiator cap and let the engine idle with the cap removed and the heater set at hot and the blower set at the lowest level...not on defrost and not on high blower...just hot heat setting.

Add fluid untill full and at full running temp.

This will burp the air out of the top of your heater core.

And return the heat at idle, however if it returns in short order, then you need to find out where the system is leaking coolant that allows for the air to happen.

Mike

 

Ok Mike I'll try this. I got home late last night and only had a few minutes to check for loose vacuum line. Didn't see any. I'll try this and keep my fingers crossed. I'll let you know the results. Thanks Ken

[eusa1]

well??

[ken]

Have not had a chance to try anything yet. Worked 19 hrs yesterday got a catnap and it was back to work til 22:00 tonight, then back at it again at 07:00 tomorrow. I think my first chance will be Saturday before I go to work. I'll be sure to post the result.

[ken]

OK, I got break yesterday and tried to solve the problem. I did as eusa1 suggested. I put the car up on ramps, took of the cap, no not need to add coolant it was full, made sure the overflow bottle was full, started her up. It ran for about 20 minutes or so. While it was running the fans kicked on and the coolant level QUICK! (I hope that normal) so I added more. I felt both header core lines and both were hot, one was a little cooler then the other and I did see a few small bubbles come up thru the goose neck while it was running. I think I have heat now, but the real test will be when the temps drops down in the 20s. Thanks everyone for the help........ Now I have another question for the Chrysler guys. The car is my daughter's (Cierra) and it has just over 160k. In the last three or so years I'v put on new ball joints, water pump, both rear bearings and the rotors and break all the way around were none last year. Cierra will be off to college in about 8 months. See will stay at home and drive 20 miles each way. The car now need shocks and struts, and all four tires. Most likly cost about $600 to $800. Should I forget about it and find something else or put the money in to it. The motor and trans still seem fine. I hate to shell out the cash and then have somthing else go wrong. This is the only chrysler I've ever had so I'm not really sure how many miles there good for. I had a ford escort once my wife brought new and I put 264k on it before I sold it, and it still ran good. Can I get this out of a chrysler and not get nickled and dimed to death.