Rear Brake disks, any available?

[dynodon]

My Yamaha dealer put an aftermarket rear disk on my bike last year, and it has been squealing ever since. It has slots in it but they are 90 degrees to the axle rather than slanted, and I am sure that is the problem, because the same new pads are doing fine on the front with the OEM disks.

 

The OEM disks are $500+ IF you can order them and you can't right now from what I have seen.

 

I have found just one aftermarket source and they are $225 or so. anyone found anything else that works? Used ones are hard to find and probably worn out.

 

http://www.perfectbrakes.com/products.asp?cat=8079

[bongobobny]

Rock at Buckeye motorsports sells the EBC's for under $200. I have one on the '84 but haven't used the bike yet so I can't tell you if they are quiet or not.

 

I wonder if the dealer cleaned the rotor off with alcohol or some other solvent to get the preservative oil off when he installed them. That could be the source of your noise...

[massey130]

40 bucks buy it now. go to

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Royal-Star-Venture-XVZ1300-REAR-BRAKE-DISC-ROTOR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem518c90994eQQitemZ350250637646QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[massey130]

that was for a 2nd gen. i bet you want 1st gen.

i jumped the gun on that one.

hey, you may want it for a back up when you do get a 2nd gen.

[Rocket]

I have found just one aftermarket source and they are $225 or so. anyone found anything else that works? Used ones are hard to find and probably worn out.

 

http://www.perfectbrakes.com/products.asp?cat=8079

 

Dennis Lirk has the same one for $215 http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=195298&store=Main&catId=&productId=p194765&leafCatId=&mmyId=11442

 

I have all EBC rotors on mine, only time one of them got noisy, is when i had a bunch of dust in there. Probably from the bike waiting for a new stator to arrive & the wind blowing grit around here (bike is parked outside).

[rhncue]

I don't know if you installed the pads or not but they sell something that looks like silicone gasket sealer just for this. A coat goes onto the back of each pad so that the pad doesn't contact the caliper piston directly. I've used it a few times on auto calipers and it stopped the squeal and chatter.

 

Dick

[Condor]

Here's a MK II rear on Ebay.

 

ROTOR

[rhncue]

I don't know if you installed the pads or not but they sell something that looks like silicone gasket sealer just for this. A coat goes onto the back of each pad so that the pad doesn't contact the caliper piston directly. I've used it a few times on auto calipers and it stopped the squeal and chatter.

 

Dick

 

This is on e-bay by the way.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-XVZ1300-XVZ-1300-Venture-rear-brake-rotor-disc_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dSIQ26ituQ3dUCIQ252BUAQ252BFICSQ26otnQ3d12Q26poQ3dLVIQ26psQ3d54QQ_trksidZp3907Q2em263QQcategoryZ10066QQitemZ370265173939#ht_526wt_732

 

Dick

[skydoc_17]

Hey Don,

Here is some general information so you will understand why this is happening.

Modern Aftermarket rotors are made of a much harder material than the stock First Gen. Rotors were. I checked the link in your first post and it looks like you have Kevlar impregnated pads on the rear. What has happened is the Rear Rotor is now "Glazed",

(which means the outer most surface of the rotor has been heat treated) and is very hard. The pads can't get a "bite" on the rotor and are vibrating which creates the "squeak". Kevlar pads are actually for "super bikes" where heat fade is a BIG problem. These pads fight heat fade by transferring the heat to the rotor. This is great for an R1 but bad for a VR.

Now don't get me wrong, our bikes are fast but I dare say you haven't been doing too many 160 MPH to 110 MPH "slow downs" lately. With that being said, you have two options, go to organic pads, (they wear quickly, they are less noisy, they do not over heat the rotor, they cost less, but your braking will be slightly diminished) OR go to the HH Sintered pads, (they wear more slowly, they could be noisy if used improperly, they could over heat the rotor, they cost more, they do wear the rotor faster, they do improve breaking). which ever way you decide to go, bevel the outer edges of the pads with a file, use the "no squeak" lube on the back of the pads, and break the new pads in properly. (which means two or three stops from 60 MPH to 40 MPH, rear brake only in this case, then ride for 10 minutes and do two more stops from 60 MPH to 40 MPH. You will need to do this for a few days so the pads will remove the heat treated area off of the rotor and "bite" again) At this point I would like to add that I have seen a "sticky" caliper cause this problem as well. There is NOTHING inside a brake caliper that makes the pistons and the pads retract off of the rotor, if one or more of the pistons is sticking then the pads stay in contact with the rotor and overheating of the rotor results.

Now for my shameless plug: I sell sets of high quality organic pads already beveled, for $25.00 a set.

I sell rebuilt front and rear MKII calipers for $60.00 with exchange (Just price the seal kits to know this is a deal) I don't buy enough of the HH sintered pads to get a deal on them so you can get them for the same price I can. I have a stock, used rear rotor for sale but will not sell it if you are not going to rebuild the rear caliper. This doesn't include shipping.

To make a long story short, If you don't check/rebuild your rear caliper and go to a different set of pads, buying a new rear rotor is not going to solve your problem. Oh, and one final comment, "riding the brake" compounds the above problems. (I'm not saying you do that Don, I'm just pointing out a cause to the effect) When you activate the brake, do it and then get off of it, if you want to creep to a stop light, use your transmission, not the brakes. (low speed, "friction zone" usage is something totally different) I have seen a LOT of brake pads, calipers, and rotors in my shop and can pretty much tell what kind of rider a person is by checking his (or her) equipment. I have NOT checked Don's breaking system personally so NONE of the above could apply to him, :confused24:these are just things I have seen in the past on other rider's bikes. If you are interested in parts, or have other questions, please feel free to PM me.

Earl

[ArcsSparks]

try this 39.95

plus a whole lot of other parts wish I would have know when I spent $700 to have my rear caliper rebuilt

 

http://stores.shop.ebay.com/PinWall-Cycle-Parts-Inc_Yamaha-Venture-Royal-Star_W0QQ_fsubZ5820835QQ_sidZ12458664QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em14?_pgn=12 (thats page 12) the rotor is on the next page 13

Edited October 2, 2009 by Arcs&Sparks
added content

[dynodon]

Thanks everyone for the tips. Skydoc, you misunderstood. The link was to the only new rear disk I could find for my '86 VR. I do not have those brake pads on my bike.

 

The dealer rebuilt the rear caliper completely last year, so I doubt I need that, but when I remove it, I will check.

 

I have run race cars with race brakes for years, so I do understand how brakes work, but appreciate any advice. Still, in looking at the disk, I am pretty sure it isn't glazed, although the pads might be, but I don't drive my bike that hard. I will probably remove the caliper and inspect the pads, and maybe sand them, put a groove in them if they don't have one and bevel the edges.

 

When I got new tires put on last month, the mechanic (different one from the dealer) said my rear and front pads were in great shape.

 

I will try messing with the current pads some before getting a new disk (used one is a last resort) and pads. I will check with you Skydoc before buying new pads.

 

The anti squeal gel for the back of the pads is also a good idea, thanks Dick for that hint, it is hard to remember all the little tricks when you don't work on stuff all the time. The older I get the more I just pay someone to do the hard stuff. So I can do that also when I check out the pads.

 

Again, thanks everyone.

[skydoc_17]

Hey Don,

As I said in my earlier post, I have not looked at your brake system, I do not know how you ride and I was not insinuating in any way that you are abusing your equipment. I was merely stating some general information about brakes and some areas that need regular attention. If I "ruffled your feathers" in any way, I apologize.

Good luck on finding the source of the squeaking problem.

Earl

[dynodon]

skydock (Earl),

 

It is easy to misread attitude in type, that is why I tried hard to be nice in my reply, and be more precise than I was in my first note.

 

I wasn't upset at all, just wanted you to know that the link was for the disk I found, not the pads I was currently using.

 

No feathers ruffled, I evolved from a different line than birds!

 

Although my wife might argue exactly how evolved I am from time to time.

[skydoc_17]

Hey Don,

Sometimes I focus on the technical details and forget the "people" aspect. (Just ask MY wife, she thinks I am WAY to serious about this motorcycle stuff!) In my "zeal" to convey a lot of technical information is a small space, I come across as an

A$$hole sometimes.

That is not my intension. I do so love to work on and talk about these wonderful machines and it is apparent that I do a better job of working on them than I do talking about them. Thanks for taking my limited verbal abilities into consideration and seeing that I am only trying to help, You're a good man.

Earl